The fuse is inside, clamped to the bottom iron.
Swing the top open. There are 4 small screws, two metric M3 flatheads in the front pivot, two self tapping near the hinge, that hold the bottom iron in place.
Often the M3 screws will become fused to the captive nuts. Using the correct size cross-point screwdriver, position it in one of the pivot end screws, and while holding it firmly directly in line with the screw, give the screwdriver a sharp tap on the end of the handle, as if it were a chisel. Repeat with the other front pivot screw.
If the screw does not unscrew with a minimum of force, repeat the tapping procedure. If this does not work, use a 1/8" metal bit to drill through the screw heads. Remove the rear screws.
There is a spring-loaded pin running through the front pivot halves. Press it in and carefully swing the bottom grid upward. Turn the iron upside down. At the rear of the irons, you'll see where the wires enter from the rear support. Find the metal clip holding down a piece of white rubbery tubing. Remove the screw and clip. The temperature-limiting fusible link is inside the tubing.
Push the tubing toward one side until the wire crimp is seen. On the fuse side of each crimp,AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE TO THE CRIMP, clip the lead. Remove the tubing and clip the other lead.
Take two uninsulated crimp-style spade lugs for 20 ga wire, and clip off the spade ends. The crimp ends will be your new crimp connector.
From the iron's leds, remove the old crimps. Strip just enough jacket for the exposed wire ends to match the length of the new crimp connectors.
Take the stripped lead that is toward the iron's terminal, insert into a crimp connector. Insert one end of the new fuse in the other end so the overlapping leads each just reach the opposite end of the connector. Crimp in place.
Slide the tubing over the fuse and push it toward the iron. (The loom tubing on the other wires will compress to permit this).
Connect the other end of the new fuse to the remaining stripped wire with the second crimp connector.
If you had to drill out the M3 screws (I did), use a vice grip wrench to grasp the remaining shaft with as little compression as possible and remove. The threads of the captive nuts should be ok. Replace the screws with M3 flat head crosshead screws and antiseize compound of the threads.
Notes:
1. The most common reason for thermal fuse failure is running the iron empty with the top raised.
2. I got replacement fuses via ebay 4/$2, M3 screws at Ace Hardware @$0.19.
3. All the wires inside the iron are insulated with high temperature silicone or non-melting jackets. Stripping requires an electricians stripper/crimper with a 20-22 ga cutter. More force is needed to strip these wires than you might expect. You'll find it much easier if you hold the wire being stripped with a pliers while stripping.
SOURCE: Waring pro waffle maker
There are wires that are exposed because of poor wires that seem to crack under heat or oil or both I am calling the factory now that I have opened it up and found a FIRE HAZARD inside
SOURCE: Waring Pro Waffle maker
Just spray the grids before each use with something like Pam, or put a thin coat of oil on them. I found it's better to spray before each waffle so it won't stick.
SOURCE: removing top of waffle maker to clean it
The other night my wife had the same issue. My thought had always been to wipe it down using a wet cloth with simply hot water and rely on the extreme heat of using it to sterilize it. My wife decided instead to disassemble it. The problem is that it is not made to disassemble and she bent some parts and broke others and stripped out screw heads. It is clean now, but can not be reassembled without extracting stripped screws and replacing some parts. My advice to you is - don't try to disassemble it. The factory went to great lengths to ensure that you don't. Instead use a soft cloth dampened (not dripping wet) with the hottest water you can.
SOURCE: Will not heat.
There is a thermal fuse inside the bottom half of the unit, enclosed in a white insulating sleeve. This appears to be the weak part of the circuit. A replacement can be found here on Amazon.com.
SOURCE: Waring Waffle Maker no heat
Remove 4 Black Phillips Screws 2 on the front near the handle that flips Use a Good fitting Screwdriver These screws have a thread locker on them. They will strip the heads out if proper care is not used when removing them.Then remove the two screws at the rear of the Iron Just rear of the cooking surface. This will remove the chrome cover on the bottom of the cooking surface exposing the wiring. The thermal fuse is located under a section of insulation under a clamp held in by another Phillips screw.Do not cut or Damage the insulation. Gently pull it back exposing the fuse. After replacing the fuse, insulation ,Clamp and screws check to be sure the iron heats and cycles on and off and the ready light works properly. If it does not cycle the new fuse will blow . Good luck
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