I've taken my machine in twice to be fixed and still not working-the straight stitches are either really loose on the back side of fabric or it is lots of tangled loops of thread-some of the fancy stitches work just fine, some don't. The thread take-up lever doesn't seem to be moving smoothly either. It is model # CP6500.
Sounds like a top tension problem. give the tensioner a good clean especially between discs first before going any further.
SOURCE: Loose stitching underneath. HOW CAN I FIX!!!!
I'm **t sure what you mean by freehand stitching........do you get a good even stitch with zig zag, this is the most important first test ?
Ensure that all is clean and free of lint jams....**w for tension troubleshooting .......
This solution is for tension problems...if you can**t form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me k**w if you need a different problem solved.....
It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "k**tting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.
QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tesion to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.
TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
projects).
IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !
TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and **t to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.
It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.
If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.
Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.
In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do **t gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.
BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.
I would **t recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small *****s and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)
...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....
just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.
Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (**t soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.
If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is ** lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.
TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension ***** in the middle of the metalwork....
...the other ***** at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is **t a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !
FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's ** trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.
Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.
Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension ***** very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.
You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it can**t be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)
OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....** case ? then make some sort of cover !
Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.
Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (a**ther reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)
FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistant diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !
If you want any more help with this, just post back here, or, drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at www.bargainbox.com.au
SOURCE: Can't get a neat straight and stretch stitch underneath
Sounds like a bottom tension problem, to be sure I would have to have a look, I would suggest you have it looked at. Not sure about the materials you are sewing and have serious doubts as to whether the machine you are using is up for the job and will give you a satisfactory finish. It is possible a "walking foot" machine is what you need.
SOURCE: Loose stitching underneath. HOW CAN I FIX!!!!
Sounds as though you may have a burr or rough spot on the hook where the bobbin inserts. Run your finger along the edge of the hook to see if there are any rough spots.I'm sure you're going to find at least one from the time you broke the needle.Once you locate it, remove it with an emery stick or small sharpening stone. Polish it so that it is smooth. Should work okay.
sewman7
SOURCE: 5932 knotting every other inch
Try oiling the hook if you haven't recently.
Check you needle plate and hook for damage, they may need to be buffed or sanded smooth.
Check your upper tension discs for lint and double check your upper thread path (proper threading).
There are other things like hook timing, needle clearance or broken check spring that may be wrong but you need a technician for those things.
best of luck!
SOURCE: Juki HZL-E61: cannot get tension right on straight stitch
Loops on the bottom of the fabric direct the problem to the top thread. Rethread again and make sure the thread goes through the tension discs. Lift the foot, because this is what opens the discs. When sewing and the foot is down, the discs should be closed and thus giving the upper thread the tension it needs.
You need to use the blind hemming foot which helps you to line up the folded edge and keep it at a constant distance from the needle. It will look like this.
Turn the little silver screw to move the white plastic guide left or right until you've got just a smidgen of fabric being stitched by the left wide stitch. Always do a practice sample first to get the stitching and guide set right. On most machines you can vary the width of the big zig by adjusting the stitch width dial a little.73 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×