Temperature sensors The fridge compartment is not maintaining a cold temperature. I defrosted the fridge and dismantled the front fan cover and the panel that contains the fan. I can see two temperature sensors. I know the white sensor must pass through holes in the covers and project into the freezer compartment. I suspect the black sensor has come adrift from somewhere and may be my problem. Can you advise where it should be located...perhaps inside the vents to the fridge?

Take the cover off the fridge fan and put a flash light in there and a camera set to record. close the door for a couple of minutes and then look at the footage to see if the fan is running. The circulation fan should run all the time.

1-The condenser coils are usually located under the refrigerator. They dissipate heat as refrigerant passes through them. If the condenser coils are dirty, they won't dissipate the heat effectively. As debris builds up on the coils, the refrigerator becomes less efficient, causing the refrigerator to work harder to cool down. If the coils are significantly dirty, the refrigerator will not be able to maintain the proper temperature. Check the condenser coils to determine if they are dirty-if the condenser coils are dirty, clean them.
2-The evaporator fan motor draws air over the evaporator (cooling) coils and circulates it throughout the refrigerator and freezer compartments. Some refrigerators have more than one evaporator fan motor. On refrigerators with only one evaporator, the evaporator is located in the freezer compartment. If the evaporator fan is not working, it will not circulate the cold air to the refrigerator compartment. If this occurs, the freezer may still get cold, while the refrigerator will not get cold. To determine if the evaporator fan motor is defective, try turning the fan blade by hand. If the fan blade does not turn freely, replace the fan motor. Additionally, if the motor is unusually noisy, replace it. Finally, if the motor does not run at all, use a multimeter to test the motor windings for continuity. If the windings do not have continuity, replace the evaporator fan motor.

You may have a bad thermostat or you could just be frosted over inside. You'll need to look behind the back panel in the freezer for syntoms if unplugging to defrost doesn't work.

It is quite common for a refrigerator to begin the first signs of a defrost problems once he fresh Food section begins to warm. Auto Dampers are an additional component to check while searching for the true reason for Fresh Food compartment warming. First look inside the freezer compartment and and see if there is a layer of frost building on the rear wall. If yes you will need to manually defrost unless you have anothr place to store the freezer goods. Unplug refrigerator and then remove the rear panel of freezer to get a good look at the snow covering your evaporator coils. Defrost with a hair drier. Now we need to look for the cause Auto Damper, Click here for the photo location of these parts=> MSD2756GEW Controls Section the adaptive defrost control is most likely the problem and is listed in the photo as location 13 and the auto damper

61005971 Damper Control Assembly

61005988 Adaptive Defrost Assembly

The Auto Damper model refrigerator has two controls and both have capillary sensing.

The Auto Damper controls the fresh food temperature and the Freezer Temperature
Control guides the freezer temperature. The fresh food compartment temperature is maintained by a damper assembly located at the back of the temperature control housing. Changes in air temperature cause the damper door to open and close. A control rod and gear connect the fresh
food control knob to the damper control.

Turning the fresh food control knob to the coldest position increases the flow of freezer air into the fresh food section. The freezer compartment temperature control warms at a faster rate and cools at a slower rate, increasing the compressor run time necessary to maintain a satisfied freezer temperature control.

Click Here=> Here is how to test a Maytag MSD2756GEW Auto Damper

There is always other possiilities but I see two other things that may cause this and that is the defrost heater with defrost Thermostat=> 61006199 Defrost Heater Assembly

I know this was long and possibly confusing but please ask if you should have questions or one on one assistance, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Hi

If refrigerator is not cooling properly it can be due to a defrost timer, which is causing the fridge to go into defrost cycle. Usually it takes 45-60 minutes for refrigerator to come out of defrost cycle. If the timer is bad then it will not come out of defrost cycle and can result in this kind of issues. It can also occur due to a bad defrost thermostat, it allows current to pass through it at temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Fahrenheit and prevents current from passing through it at 40 to 60 degrees. This is difficult to test, though, because it takes a prolonged, very-cold temperature to turn it on. The defrost thermostat is snapped onto the top portion of the evaporator. The thermostat sends temperature information to the processor. The defrost heater must be replaced when replacing the thermostat.
1. Remove the lower fan duct work from the evaporator cover.
2. Remove the 1/4-in. evaporator cover screws and remove the evaporator cover.
3. Disconnect the defrost thermostat wiring connector.
4. Remove the defrost thermostat from the evaporator.

Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

If you have already adjusted the controls for temperatures in both compartments and allowed 12 - 24 hours to stabilize and the trend is continuing, there may be a problem with the fans that move the cold air from the freezer to the fresh food compartment. The fridge may also start allowing temperatures to rise in the freezer soon, too.

All of these problems originate in the freezer compartment, where the cooling is done. Behind the back wall; inside the freezer - lies the cooling coils, defrost heater, circulating fan(s) and defrost terminator sensor. Unplug the fridge. Empty the contents of the freezer, remove the ice maker assembly and the back wall plate and you should see these components. If it looks like a large block of snow and ice, the problem is with the defrost circuit components. If clear with a minimal amount of frost, the warm fridge is the result of blocked or limited airflow from this area to the fresh food compartment - likely a failed circulating fan. Plug the fridge back in and check to see if the fan is running - since the fridge is warm, it should be running. The fan or the thermostat will probably need replacing if it is not.

If icing or frost is the problem, you'll need to isolate and replace one or more of the following: defrost heater, defrost terminator or defrost timer. The last two are the usual suspects for this type of failure - but the heating element can fail too. Many times, the defrost timer is accessible from the front of the fridge, behind the kick plate below the freezer door on the right side. Other times it is located in or near the temperature control area.

Good luck!

First thing to try is Powering off the FF at the mains supply and leaving it standing for 30 minutes. Make sure that you do not open any of the doors or touch any of the controls during this time. Then reconnect the power and wait for 30 to 60 minutes to see if the fault remains or is cured. Try defrosting the FF as despite common belief these units are not totally frost free.

In side by sides if the freezer side is working OK and the fridge side is not working correctly it means that air ducting has iced up or the air vent from the freezing unit to the fridge compartment has stuck in the closed or partially closed position which causes the fridge to not be any where near as cool as it should be. If it is too cold then the vent is stuck in the open position and the fridge temperature will continue to fall and become the same as the freezer, thereby freezing the contents of the fridge compartment. It can also get stuck in another position so that if the temperature is adjusted on the front panel then nothing happens to the temperature in the fridge compartment. The vent, which is usually at the top of the fridge compartment on the side where it joins the freezer compartment, is controlled by a small sync motor and either the motor has become faulty, the control module is faulty or the vent is iced up. It can be come iced up by putting too many hot items in the fridge so the steam condenses and freezes the vent in position and then the motor cannot open or close it causing it and / or the control module to become faulty. Other times it is just old age that causes the motor and / or the control module to fail. If the sync motor and vent are working OK then there may be a fault with the fridge temperature sensor or main on board controller that will mean that the sensor or the controller will need replacing.

Top mount refrigerator installed in a garage and the food in the freezer is defrosting when
the temperature in the garage goes below 55 degrees fahrenheit.
On top mount refrigerators you cycle the compressor and fan/fans from the food
compartment temperature. When the room temperature gets colder than 55 F, you have
long off times waiting for the food compartment to warm enough to trip the cold control.
This long off time is allowing the freezer temperature to get high enough that food can start
to defrost.
There is a kit for refrigerators installed in applications where the temperature can go as low
as 34 F and still maintain good freezer temperatures. The kit part number is 5303918301
and it contains a heater that mounts in the control box and an instruction sheet advising
how to install the heater.
Kit 5303918301 contains:
Part # 5303950194 Instruction sheet
Part # 241532101 Heater

CHECK THE FREEZER TEMP FOR ZERO DEGREES. PUT A THERMOMETER IN THE FREEZER THAT WILL MEASURE DOWN TO ZERO DEGREES. LET IT SET OVER NIGHT BEFORE CHECKING. IF THE TEMP IN THE FREEZER IS ZERO OR LOWER, THE SEALED SYSTEM IS O.K. IT IS AN AIR FLOW PROBLEM. ON SOME MODELS, THE AIR TO THE FRESH FOOD COMPARTMENT IS CONTROLLED BY AN ELECTRIC, MOTORIZED AIR DAMPER. IT COULD BE DEFECTIVE, STAYING CLOSED WHEN THE CONTROL CALLS FOR MORE COLD AIR. IF YOUR REFRIGERATOR HAS A DIGITAL CONTROL, THERE IS A SENSOR IN EACH COMPARTMENT TO TELL THE ELECTRONIC CONTROL WHAT THE TEMP IS. THE SENSOR (THERMISTOR) COULD BE BREAKING DOWN, GIVING A FALSE READING. THIS WOULD ACCOUNT FOR THE TEMP VARIATIONS.

IF THE FREEZER IS ALSO WARM, THERE COULD BE A RESTRICTION IN THE SEALED SYSTEM. THERE COULD ALSO BE A PROBLEM WITH THE RELAY ON THE COMPRESSOR, NOT ALLOWING THE COMPRESSOR TO START UP WHEN IT IS NEEDED.

BE SURE THE CONDENSER FAN MOTOR IS RUNNING WITH THE COMPRESSOR AND THE CONDENSER COILS ARE NOT PLUGGED WITH DUST, DIRT OR FOREIGN OBJECTS.

The compressor behind the fridge should cycle on and off as the machine maintains temperature, but the evaporator fan inside the freezer will keep running, except when the fridge goes into defrost. If the noise is coming from the fan inside the freezer, there could be some ice on the frame of the fan and the blades are touching the ice. If the noise is coming from behind the fridge it could be the condensor fan motor. This fan is situated behind the fridge in front of or next to the compressor. It keeps the condensor cool by blowing air onto it. Check this fan. The blades could be touching the pipework or something.