After the self cleaning cycle the upper oven is locked, it will not heat up , the bottom oven is working (not self cleaning). Even when the latch is pryed open, it still does not heat up.
Whirlpool have the self clean latch assembly solenoid go bad and wont return back to unlock the switch to tell the control is is no longer in self clean. Replace the self clean latch assembly or make sure the switch on the assembly is in the non self clean mode, If the oven starts working then you know the problem if it still doesn't work then there may be other issues.
SOURCE: Whirlpool Double over
big dib, the TC0, ( thermal cut out) probably has opened. This is non resetable. To get at it you have to pull the oven out to a point where you can get at the back. Then you have to remove the oven back panel and there is the TCO. Part number 4450249. You can verify this by ohming out the TC0, if it shows open (no continuity) it's bad. I have done a number of these and it takes two people to repair it safely. Kill the breaker when going in there. Catriver..post back.
SOURCE: The F5 error code?
WHIRLPOOL
Range/Stove Oven Fault Codes, Common
Failure
Code
Condition
Check/Repair
Digit Failure Code2
F1
Analog to Digital Failure
Disconnect for 30 seconds - if display reappears - replace control board
F1
Safety flip flop
Replace board
F1
Shorted keypad
Replace keypad
F3
Oven temperature sensor opened
Replace oven temperature sensor
F2
Oven temperature sensor shorted
Replace oven temperature sensor
F3
Oven too hot
Replace oven temperature sensor
F3
Clean temp too hot
Replace oven temperature sensor
F5
Check door/latch switch
Replace switch if defective
SOURCE: whirlpool self cleaning oven 465 capacity model oven doesn't get
Hi,
Check out this tip that I wrote about this problem...
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4511800-oven_problems_electric_oven_heating
heatman101
SOURCE: Whirlpool Oven will not heat
Hello there:Usually,
when an oven won't bake, it's because the bake element is burned out.
The bake element is the black, pencil- thick tube at the bottom of the
oven. When the oven heats, the element glows red. This element has an
expected life-span of several years. It may last for only one; it may
last for many more. When the element burns out, you need to replace it.
If
the bake element is burned out, replacing it should solve the problem.
Otherwise, you need to further troubleshoot the oven's electrical system
to locate the defective wire or component.
When
the temperature is consistent but too high or too low, it could be one
of several different things. First check to see if the thermostat
sensing bulb has come loose from its holder. It could be lying on the
floor of the oven or resting on the heating element. This would cause
the oven to not heat correctly.
If the thermostat bulb is not dislodged, it's likely that the thermostat or sensor is either mis-calibrated or defective.
Electronic
ovens with a digital display use a sensor to monitor oven temperature.
To solve temperature problems for these models, you may need to replace
the sensor. On some digital-display models, you can calibrate the
temperature using the key pad. See your operator's manual for details.
Ovens
without a digital display often use a mechanical system for controlling
temperature. On many of these units, you can remove the thermostat knob
and adjust the knob itself to more accurately represent the actual
setting of the thermostat.
If,
when you remove the knob, there's a screw on the back of it with a
small calibration plate, you can loosen the screw, adjust the plate,
then tighten the screw again. If the knob isn't adjustable, and the oven
temperature is off by more than 30 to 40 degrees, you need to replace
the thermostat to solve the problem.
SOURCE: Have Whirlpool self clean electric oven model #
Hi, Before you go working too hard to get
you oven to go into the self clean mode(self destruct)....check out
this tip...
Self
Cleaning Oven Problem
heatman101
"
Wish I had read this first. I never would have used the self cleaning
option. Thanks for the info!!
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