Dishwasher turns off

Question edited for a lot more clarity. All question need FULL 'make model (what it is)'.
Question moved from laundry Washing Machines to Hobart Dishwasher category.

'DP' or 'PD'?

PD is not an error code. It shows that when it draining water out shortly after power-up and when shutting down. If it seems to be showing "PD" longer than usual, it means the dishwasher's control circuitry believes there is still water in the tank, due to a faulty water level probe, most like the one under the lift-out screen. It has a plastic body with a metal probe coming out the center.

There is also a dual probe at the rear of the machine, but I believe the dishwasher uses the front probe to determine when to stop draining the machine during "PD" - most likely meaning "Power Drain" or "Power Draining".

If you are not seeing any E- codes (E1, E2, E3, etc.) then these water level probes are likely just fine and the "PD" is appearing normally, as it should during draining conditions.

Manual just for fun.

https://www.partstown.ca/modelManual/HOB-AM15T_spm.pdf

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E3 means that the heating element is operating when it should not be doing so. It may be caused by an older, weaker element that is taking too long to heat the water or the thermostat may be giving incorrect readings. Ensure you are using hot water to fill the machine (if tied to your faucet water supply, run the water until it is hot before starting the dishwasher). Information from the Belling manual:

If the heating element is still heating after the allowed time, then the control board will advance the programme to next step and at the end of the washing cycle the alarm buzzer will sound for 30 sec and the display will show E3.

When the control board detects that the heating element is operating during a non heating step or during the internal test the heating circuit is found to be open circuit then the alarm buzzer will sound for 30 sec and the control board will cease all functions except for the drain cycle which will run for 90 seconds and then E3 will be displayed on the control panel.

I found this website that can help you further.
Hobart Kitchen Appliance Product Support ManualsOnline com

Hobart is probably the most user friendly manufacturer out there. Their service manuals are great. Try this.... Good luck Manuals Support

Go to hobartcorp.com instuction manual are available on its site to download.

Makes sure all screens are in nothing in tank under them (spoons especialy). turn power switch on, shut door and it fills, should say fill on led display. once its filled open door and put tray in shut door and it starts wash cycle. led will say wash then it will go into rinse. when risnes dispaly turs of its finished. open doors take tray out. put next tray in. to drain out to clean there is a little moon shaped lever right above basket it will life the drain stand pipe greay plastic tube under screens and it will drain out shut door turn on the switch and it will fill back up and off you go. Soap wil be with a privet vendor if you have a already installed soap system call them and they most likely have reps who cann show you you basics.
Best Dishwasher Hobart ever built is the Am-14

read endector

P3 refers to one of the dishwasher's three temperature sensors: sump temperature, booster heater temperature, or rinse water temperature. The dishwashers control circuitry has determined one of them is open or shorted, or at least out of range.

Judging from the symptom you mentioned, that you see rapid temperature reading changes before it finishes filling, I'd say it's probably the sump probe (because that's the temperature displayed during the fill cycle), located under the large removeable screen inside the dishwasher.

To test or replace, remove the small access panel at the lower front of the dishwasher (2 screws).
After the dishwasher has reached a good normal operating temperature, unplug the sump probe connector (white plastic connector with two small black wires going to it and coming from the area mentioned above where the temp. probe is. Using a multimeter, test the resistance of the probe. If the water in the dishwasher is hot (150 deg. F or more), you should read somewhere in the area of 5,000 to 10,000 ohms. If your measurement varies significantly from this range, replace the probe- most likely you'll see a reading near zero ohms or a very high reading, possibly an open-circuit probe (infinite resistance i.e. "OL" indicated on most multimeters).

It's possible I'm wrong about which temp. probe P3 refers to. There is also a temp. probe on the booster heater and one on the rinse piping on the rear of the dishwasher. Test procedure is the same for all of them, although the probe on the rinse piping is not constantly subjected to hot water so testing at room temperature would result in higher resistance value (lower temperature means higher resistance for these temperature probes).

The WM-1D does not have any internal heating devices. You have to supply the machine with the proper water temp. It has two fill valves, one for wash and one for rinse. It should have 150F supplied to the wash fill valve and 180F to the rinse fill valve.

Hobart AM-14 will wash and rinse in manual, but not in automatic

E-2 error is a fill problem. Water did not reach the lower probe within the time out. (innitial fill only
1- Is the bottom probe clean?
2- No fill water (check valve, hose,fill screen in end of hose, and fill source.)
3- low water pressure, should be 20 PSI flow.
4- Fuse 1FU blown.
5- Check wiring to fill valve.
6- Check relay board function.