Kohler pop up plug staying closed

Put the lever in the open position so that you can grab the stopper. After you get a grip on it, put the lever in the closed position and the drain plug and rocker assembly will pull out in a horizontal direction.

Hi there:

Rocker Arms & Pushrods

Removal & Installation

3.1L & 3.4L Engines
Left Side

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
2. Drain the cooling system to a level below the coolant pipe on the front of the engine.
3. Remove or disconnect the following:
   NOTEKeep the pushrods in order. Intake pushrods are 5 3 / 4 inches long and exhaust pushrods are 6 inches long.
   
   
   Negative battery cableSpark plug wiresHeater bypass pipePositive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve and hoseRocker arm cover
   
   
   Rocker arms and pushrods
   

To install:

1. Lubricate all the valvetrain components with engine oil.
2. Install or connect the following:
   
   Pushrods and the rocker arms. Torque the bolts to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).Rocker arm cover using a new gasket. Torque the rocker cover bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).PCV valve and hoseHeater bypass pipe. Torque the screw at the water pump to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm), the bolt at the cylinder head corner to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm) and the nut to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).Spark plug wiresNegative battery cable
   
3. Refill the cooling system.
4. Start the vehicle and verify no leaks.

Right Side

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   NOTEKeep the pushrods in order. Intake pushrods are 5 3 / 4 inches long and exhaust pushrods are 6 inches long.
   
   
   Negative battery cableAlternator bracket on 2005 modelsSpark plug wires from the spark plugs and the upper intake plenum wire retainerPower brake booster vacuum pipe from the intake plenumAccessory drive beltAlternator, if necessaryIgnition coil assembly and Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) canister purge solenoid as an assemblyRocker arm cover
   
   
   Rocker arms and pushrods
   

To install:

1. Lubricate all the valvetrain components with engine oil.
2. Install or connect the following:
   
   Pushrods and the rocker arms. Torque the bolts to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) plus an additional 30 degree turn.Rocker arm cover using a new gasket. Torque the rocker cover bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).Ignition coil and EVAP solenoid assemblyAlternator, if removed. Torque the bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).Accessory drive beltPower brake booster vacuum pipe to the plenumSpark plug wiresNegative battery cable
   
3. Start the vehicle and verify no leaks.

Hope this helps.

Hey, I think I've got the solution for your situation.

First off, you want to get a caulk remover and apply that on all the caulking between the tub and the faceplate. Let this soak for 20 minutes. Then you will want to take a utility knife to score around the edges of the faceplate between the faceplate and the tub. Be careful not to scratch the tub! When the caulking has been completely cut through all the way around the face plate, take putty knife and pry the faceplate from the side of the tub. Check out the lever, or see if it is just gunk build up on the filter. Either way I hope this helps, and good luck!

Hi, without a rocker arm, the valve would stay closed. As the lash adjusters may have been loose for a while, check the camshaft lobes for wear as well as the rockers themselves. Look around for other stuff the rocker may have damaged while bouncing around in the valve cover. Replace all of the lash adjusters, making sure to put the rockers back on their original valves. Not sure you need to pull the heads. Why don't you put it back together and run a compression test. If compression is good, valves are probably fine. Let me know if you have more questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

hi, if you push down on the button and giggle it around it should pop back up once you have it up remove it by unscrewing it and clean the area so that it won't get jammed again

NOT A EASY FIX,THE CABLE IS NOT ADJUSTED RIGHT,

Need clarification....the drain leaks to the ceiling below, or it doesn't hold water? If it doesn't hold water, no need to replace the ring. Those can be adjusted. Simply pull up on on the lever and screw it in clockwise. This will lower the stop and hold the water. If it actually leaks below, unscrew said stopper, grab a pair of needle nose pliers and place them in the drain (to grab the strainer) and use another pair to loosen. Once off, clean around drain and clean strainer, apply plumbers putty to the strainer, apply pipe "dope" (thread sealant) to the threads and tighten back in. Good luck!

I gather it is a lever handle drain if so you need to remove the plate and linkage at the overflow to clean up the parts and spray it with WD40 or silicone spray and reinstall

you might want to check the retaining bolt that holds the rod to the raising and lowering arm. Located under the sink on the back side.

Check that key again.