Swapping a new boiler as old one stopped heating, I checked both fuses and they were ok

Hey, Check the power supply and make sure it is connected properly before attempting to fix your Faema X30 coffee maker's non-heating boiler issue. Next, check for any flaws or malfunctions with the thermostat and heating element. If necessary, think about swapping out the defective parts or hiring a pro to fix it.Thanks!

You will need to test for where the power stops & check the fuses on each boiler for continuity. If you find any blown then replace the thermostat on that boiler along with the fuses. The thermostats are different rating for each boiler, don't mix them up. It's highly unusual for both boilers to fail at the same time. Occasionally one of the boiler elements can fail, there are 2 elements on each boiler, check them for continuity. If you have any boiler leaks then replace all the seals on that boiler, the steam one is the one most likely to leak. Buy your own seals using the old ones as samples from someone specialising in O ring supply. There are 5 seals on each boiler. Do not purchase rubber or silicone seals, only use Viton seals, they are high temperature.

Check flame sensor is clean , check pressure switch ,

That's a shame. As the combustion area is room sealed none of the water should have gone in there. Most likely the water will have short circuited connections at the base of the boiler, and blown the 3A fuse for the entire heating system.
So, do you have any signs of life on the programmer/timer? Does it light up, tick, or have any lights (lit) on it? If not then find and CHECK the 3A mains fuse....and I can't tell you where that is, but usually it's in the airing cupboard, by the timer, or near the boiler.
If that fuse is OK then you will need to hire a gas fitter with electrical/fault finding experience to look closer.

check pump is running ok..if not replace it the pump, if pump is ok then u will need to descale boiler put in system by rad or if not combi then put in open vent tank make shure its the small tank also make shure the valve in tank is not stuck

Need to do a proper set up. Dip 1 set up and follow instruct for jumper settings or dupe your old one.

Most likey problem is the diverter valve, not energising fully. This in turn will not move the little plastic lever arm that actuates the microswitch on the side, sending the signal to ignite.

You can buy a diaghram kit from most local plumb centres, you need to replace the diaghram and seals, don't forget the silicon grease to ensure the plunger doesnt stick. Kits less than a tenner.

You should have noticed before it stopped working completely the water had reduced in temperature before the weeks it failed.

To make sure it is a diverter valve fault, depress the microswitch if you can, when the hot water is flowing and hey presto the demand for hot water light should shine.

Hi
I had the same problem and could solve it but i had take the machine apart.
Under boiler you have 2 thermo fuses that can be resetted. After reset i have checked if boiler get 220volt, It did for a short while but the fuses goes off again.
That means boiler is ok, it gets hot but fuses goes of due to temperature reach over 170 degrees celcius. That means that the power is olways on to the heater and doesnt stop to heat.
In diagnostic i could see that the temperature sensor does show the high temperature. That means that temp. sensor is ok which leads to the controller of the power to boiler. On the board i found big heatsink and a triac atached to it. I soldered it out and measure that it was spoiled.
Ordered new one for 3 euro. Soldered new one on the board and the problem was solved.
Original was BTA16-700CW but they didnt have it so i replaced it with BTA16-600CW, difference is that original one can handle 700volt the new one 600, but there is only 220volt it will controll anyway so that was ok.
I atach a picture.
Regards, Pawel