Frigidaire Gallery Edition Model #FGMV205KBA hubby went to turn on, and it started, then just STOPPED. NO noise, no sound, no clock, no power. But we could smell a slight electrical smell. Unplugged the unit, checked the circuit breaker. Everything was fine at our breaker. Then plugged the unit back in. Still no power to the unit. This unit is just about a year and a half old.
Check internal fuse? Is the front door switch working?
SOURCE: Cannot heat
Sounds like it overheated, tripped the thermostat, then the thermostat reset. Chances are you have a bad magnetron. GE may have a campaign (not a "recall", mind you!) to offer free replacements if yours is a model that has a known history of problems with the magnetrons. I would call GE and ask them about that. *grin* GE Answer Center 1-800-626-2005 24 hours a day, 365 days a year
SOURCE: GEJE2160 Stop Working
It probably blew the main power fuse in side the oven. This may have happen because of a failure in the microwave or a line voltage surge or what ever. Repalce the fuse and see if it work. be sure to unplug it before doing this, If this does not fix it then you have a failure in the oven some were.
good luck
SOURCE: LG Microwave LMVM2055ST Just stopped working!
We have
the service manual for this model and have uploaded it to our
site here to help you.
You will need the free
Acrobat Reader
to view or print it in case you don't have it.
It
may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille or on the
floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.
If
the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO)
/ thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body
of the oven.
If it goes dead for a
while during or after cooking
then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing
the magnetron thermostat to open.
Then when it cools, it
closes the circuit and allows power through again.
When
checking TCOs or thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat,
that should read
open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.
If the cavity thermostat
needs to be checked or replaced you'll need to pull the oven from the
wall.
If it went dead almost
immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted
high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few
seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing
high-voltage transformer.
If
it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open
or close
the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch
mount.
If it's intermittent or
random, it may be a bad
connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or
even an intermittent fuse.
You should do a
continuity test on
the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of
course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in,
then test it again.
If you remove the fuse,
then press the meter
leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and
make a bad fuse appear to be good.
If you or someone you
know
decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and
disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.
To order Goldstar / L.G.
parts, visit Vance
Baldwin Electronics. You'll probably have to call them.
We're
happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful
rating of our answer.
SOURCE: Frigidaire Gallery Microwave doesn't heat
With the symptoms you
have, I would most strongly suspect a failed high voltage transformer, which is an expensive fix.
It may also be a shorted high voltage rectifier
diode (which costs less) or a bad magnetron, or a loose and possibly corroded connection on the magnetron's terminal.
If you or someone you
know
decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and
disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.
There
should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit
behind the
control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is
very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.
At
our Web site, we have a video
available showing how to remove a typical
over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.
If you don't find yours, or if you want to look at it without disassembling the oven, you can download it here.
You can usually find
helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full
model number here.
Here are some links you
or someone you know can use for test help, but read their safety
warnings first:
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/xformer.html
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html
(if it's not shorted or burned, it's
probably okay)
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html
http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/cap_test.html
You can
download Frigidaire / Whirlpool owner's manuals and installation
instructions here.
They make removing the oven from the wall for service (or replacement) much easier.
We're happy
to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating
of our answer.
SOURCE: microwave power shut off and stopped working
You can test safety thermostats with an ohmmeter. There should be a short circuit between the device's two terminals if it's closed. (This doesn't necessarily mean the device is good, though. It might be opening at too low a temperature when the oven is operating.) A high resistance or an open circuit means the thermostat has opened and needs to be replaced. An appliance parts store should have suitable replacements, or you can order from a number of online vendors. I usually start at the Sears parts site. They have part information for many models, and usually pretty fair prices for parts. But once you have the part number you need, a Google search will let you shop around.
It does sound like your oven shut down because of a thermostat. One is normally mounted on the magnetron tube that supplies the microwaves, and another is on the cooking cavity. I've had to replace these many times. If the main power fuse blows the oven will not come back on until it's replaced. But you might also have bad solder connections causing the trouble as well. I've seen solder joints on the control board and power filter board cause dead ovens.
If you're not absolutely sure of what you're doing working on a microwave, you might want to let a professional check it over and make an estimate. There are potentially lethal voltages present, and microwave leakage may be a concern as well.
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