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It's easy ! Disconnect the electrical connector , un bolt it .
Removal Procedure
Notice: Handle the electronic throttle control components carefully. Use cleanliness in order to prevent damage. Do not drop the electronic throttle control components. Do not roughly handle the electronic throttle control components. Do not immerse the electronic throttle control components in cleaning solvents of any type.
Remove the connector position assurance (CPA) retainer. Disconnect the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor electrical connector. Reposition the carpet to access the lower nut.
Remove the accelerator pedal nuts. Remove the accelerator pedal assembly.
The throttle valve is housed inside the inlet bushing assembly (item# 26). To remove the assembly there are 2 slots near the bottom of the handle, you will see a metal tip through the slot, that is the clip (item# 27) that need to be depressed in order to remove the inlet bushing assembly (item# 26). There is a special tool to depress the clip but can be substituted by using a small flat head screw driver, once the clip is released, slide the assembly out of the housing and at the very top is the throttle valve (item# 28D) it is held in by a retaining ring (item# 28G). WARNING the throttle valve (item# 28D) has a spring (item# 28C) below pushing up, be careful when removing the retaining ring (item# 28G) it could pop out with some force!
Follow this link to the parts list: http://manualarchive.ingersollrandproducts.com/ir_pdfs/Tools/Vehicle%20Service%20Tools/Air%20Impact%20Tools/45534070_ed3.pdf
The throttle valve is housed inside the inlet bushing assembly (item# 26). To remove the assembly there are 2 slots near the bottom of the handle, you will see a metal tip through the slot, that is the clip (item# 27) that need to be depressed in order to remove the inlet bushing assembly (item# 26). There is a special tool to depress the clip but can be substituted by using a small flat head screw driver, once the clip is released, slide the assembly out of the housing and at the very top is the throttle valve (item# 28D) it is held in by a retaining ring (item# 28G). WARNING the throttle valve (item# 28D) has a spring (item# 28C) below pushing up, be careful when removing the retaining ring (item# 28G) it could pop out with some force!
Follow this link to the parts list: http://manualarchive.ingersollrandproducts.com/ir_pdfs/Tools/Vehicle%20Service%20Tools/Air%20Impact%20Tools/45534070_ed3.pdf
To re assemble the carb, connect the throttle wire into the r/h side of the carb, there is a small hole in the throttle spindle, thread the wire into the spindle from the out side and twist so it stays in the spindle, you must do this with the carb off the saw, now push the carb with the wire connected back onto the two studs from the cylinder, refit the black air filter box, fit and tighten the two 8mm nuts, re fit the torx 20 screw into the top of the filter box, re fit the orange plastic plate on the r/h side of the crankcase, now re fit the the back handle and spine assembly, fit the three torx screws back through the anti vib springs and into the crankcase, if not already done remove the three screws securing the l/h side rear handle half, hook the other end of the throttle rod into the trigger, refit the handle half.
In the 400 series of Huskies I have fixed, the handle comes apart with several screws. Sounds like the simple problem might be in the handle/trigger assembly. The more complex problem is if the throttle linkage rod popped out of the throttle. The outside trigger interacts with a black plastic insert and spring that provides pressure outward to keep the throttle low. This assembly connects to a thin metal rod that looks like the path a drunk would take doing a sobriety test after too many martinis. The rod goes into the housing and connects into a hole in the throttle assembly, then is locked in place with a plastic piece that slides down to keep the rod from falling out. In order to see this area, the cover needs to come off. I'll be honest. The last one I had, the rod fell out of both ends. It took me two days of pondering, playing around, cursing, getting up and walking away, then coming back to finally figure out where the ends went. The blue plastic piece had slid down, covering the hole, so I was at a loss as to where it attached to the throttle. NOTE: When removing the handle, try real hard to keep it together until all screws are removed. THEN VERY CAREFULLY begin to take it apart, looking in from the top of the handle. You might get one good glimpse of how the parts fit together before they fall apart on you. Husky does have a good website for exploded view diagrams, but sometimes they leave a little to be desired for 2-Dimensional art vs. 3-D Reality. Good luck.
Left side .use a set of screwdrivers and insert between thehandle chrome ring and thecaliper assembly.gently andevenly pry the stock handle off.If a lot of resistance is felt put a drop of wd 40 and allow to loosen up the adhesive used by the factory.By the t[me you are half way offthe handle should be able to be twisted off. remember to wipe off the wd before installing new handle.. Right side remove philipshead screws on the throttle manacle[control] open it up like a **** and remove throttle cables from handle.the r. handle will now slide off bars
Make sure that you are adjusting the idle speed screw, not the idle jet screw (L). If you are adjusting the proper screw, then it is possible that the throttle trigger assembly in the handle has a load of sawdust/dirt that blocks proper return to idle. Take the handle apart carefully, and make notes on how the parts go back together. Check at the carburetor throttle assembly to make sure the throttle arm returns fully to the idle speed screw when the trigger is pulled and released slowly. Check the throttle spring as well to make sure it is undamaged. Hope this helps!
try www.jackssmallengines.com parts look up poulan 2500 they have exploded views of all parts this may help you will probably have to search arond abit
hope this helps
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