Do i need to add ground wires for a Lampholder kit?

It cannot be done. You will have to pull another wire from the box that the switch wire goes to. If there are only two wires in the box then the whole building is probably not run with the nuetral wire and it is therefore going to be more effort than it is worth.

The difference between the 4 wire plug and the power source wire is that the plug has and additional seperate ground wire. Basically ttwo legs, a neutral and a ground. Your power source wire only has the two legs and the neutral (the white) which used to act as a ground. Notice that the white (neutral) is hooked up to the ground bar along with the grounds in the panel box. The "correct" thing to do is replace the wire from the panel box with the correct size/amperage wire.

If the wiring is BX cable (that is, the two wires are inside a flexible metal jacket that looks like a fat coil spring) (you would see the end of the metal jacket inside the box), and the box is metal, then the box is already grounded and you can install a jumper wire from the box to the ground terminal on the outlet. You might have to add a screw to the box. But if you don't have a grounded box, then the right thing to do is to rewire it all the way back to the main panel. On the other hand, if you simply skip the ground wire, the switch and outlet will work but they will be a little more dangerous than before because now you will have what LOOKS like a grounded outlet, but isn't. By the way, you should be using a ground fault protected outlet in a bathroom.
Good luck, be safe.

How many sets of wires are coming into the box?
If the box is in the middle of the circuit you will have a power-source black & white wire coming in and a power-source black & white wire going out. And in this case for the switch - there must be a black and a white wire going to a light.

Typically with a switch/outlet combination all the white wires will splice together with a white pig-tail wire to feed the neutral side of the device. The two black wires from the power-source will splice together with a black pig-tail and feed the hot-side of the device. The black wire going to the light will go on one side of the switch.

Looking at outlet/switch device from the front the large slot side of the outlet will be the neutral side and the smaller outlet slot will be the hot side. The neutral side screws will be steel colored and the hot side screws will be brass colored. The white wires will go to the neutral side steel colored screws, and the black wires will go on the hot side brass colored screws on the outlet.

The black wire comig into the box from the light is called a switchleg and goes to a brass screw on one side of the switch. The brass screw on the otherside of the switch will be for the black wire coming from the power-source.

Hope this helps - and please:

TURN THE BREAKER OFF BEFORE YOU START WORKING WITH THE WIRES!

Question needs more details. Let me answer as if you have one light and one switch, and one cable coming into switch box from ceiling.

Usually a switch-dimmer combo operates 2 different Loads (lights).
One light is controlled by switch, other by dimmer.

If power source is in ceiling, then one cable enters switch box.
Cable has black, white and ground wires
Old switch had 2 brass screws where black and white wires connect
Black wire brings Hot down from ceiling, and white wire connects back to Load (fan).
Neutral wires are in ceiling box, and not inside switch box, and are discussed.

With new dimmer: Black Hot wire from ceiling connects to dimmer black wire.
White Load wire connects to one of the red wires.
The other red wire goes to another Load, which is unknown at this point.

Add a comment for more free help. Say what cables and wires enter box, and what Loads you are controlling. Also add exact model number so expert can reference manual. Levition instruction sheets and manuals usually have toll free number.

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If I understand correctly you are replacing ordinary switch with switch-plug-GFCI device.
And one cable enters the box, and the cable has 1 black and 1 white and 1 ground wire.

To correctly wire combo GFCI device, you need a Neutral wire.
If your switch box has 1 cable, then it does not have a Neutral.
The neutral is required for GFCI operation, and also to power new outlet.

To test for Neutral wire:
Separate wires for testing.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot line wire from breaker box.
Hot is identified.
Test Hot wire to all other wires inside box, except bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire.

> If switch box does not have Neutral, then device cannot be wired correctly.
> If you do have a Neutral, then open following link for correct wiring of device:
http://www.fixya.com/support/t8269774-okay_same_problem_cooper

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1) A wiring diagram can be mistaken because wire colors vary.
That's why electricians don't guess, they test.

2) Look at device to be replaced and note what color screw each wire goes to before disconnecting wires.
If old device is single pole switch, then there are 2 brass screws, and one of these screws is connected to Hot wire, and the other screw is connected to Load wire (light, fan, motor, pump)

3) Separate wires inside box for testing.
Do not untwist any wires.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot. Hot wire connects to dark-colored screw on combo device.

4) Hot is identified.
Test Hot to all other wires, except bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Neutral wire. In a single-pole switch box Neutral wires are usually twisted together and covered with wire nut. Neutral wire connects to silver screw on new device.

5) Load wire that goes to light,fan, motor, pump connects to brass screw on new combo device.

6) If you do not have a Neutral wire in your switch box, then outlet will not work.
You can connect bare ground wire to silver screw and have outlet work, but this is not code, and definitely not recommended for a child's room or any room near water pipes or faucets or metal pipes of any kind. You need to add a Neutral wire and/or install GFCI protected device for any bathroom area.

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Note: this instruction will apply if you are in North America. White wire goes to the silver colored screw; Black wire goes to the brass colored screw; Green wire (bare wire) goes to the green colored screw. If you are using a metal box, you must have a ground wire attached to the bottom of the box that attaches to the ground wire that comes into the box as well as have it connected to all devices in the box (switch and/or outlet). This is best accomplished with a pig tail connected with a wire nut, i.e.: ground comes into the box, make two or more shorter wires to connect one each to the box and each device in the box.

Said differently, looking at the face of the outlet, with the ground opening at the bottom ... the white wire attaches to the wide slot or the slot on the left (silver screw), the black wire (narrow slot) attaches to the brass screw on the right and the green will be at the top or bottom of the device, normally. I think there is more to your question but that is the answer to the question I see.

If there is a switch on the top of a outlet that looks like a outlet, you can control the outlet with the switch or you can control something else with the switch. If there are two switches that look like a outlet ... normally you will power the switch with a common black wire and the switch legs will be independently connected to the other side ... the white wires will be all connected together. If there is a indicator light in the switch, you will need a white wire attached to that silver screw that powers the light.

There should be a wiring diagram in or printed on the box that your switch came in though in my experience they are so small as to not be much help.

If you have a switch that you want to control an adjacent outlet with ... p;owre into the switch (black wire). Make a jumper from the other switch terminal to the brass colored screw on outlet. The whire wire will go to the white or silver screw on the outlet. This arrangement will allow you to turn the outlet on or off at your will.

I hope this answers your question.

Thanks for your interest in FixYa.com

Let's start at the beginning please. You have a source cable fed into an overhead outlet box or to a switch outlet box on the wall? This is critical because it tells me what kind of arrangement you actually have.

If the source is in the ceiling, then you are using switch loops and the wiring gets tricky because you have to "re-task" the Neutral (White) wire (Assuming you are here in the U.S.A.) that goes to the switch because it will become the feed to the wall switch.

However, is the feed is at the switch, then it is much simpler. Please let me know what you have in the form of wiring.

Also as an FYI, if you are using special switches, you may have to have equipment grounding conductor present at the switch. The electrical code no longer allows the use of a Neutral (White) conductor as a grounding conductor.

Hi,
Power cord that goes to fuse box to provide power to unit. Yellow to 14V DC and black to Ground / car body.
J-Bus connector goes to receiver to amplify sound that goes to speakers.

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Thanks.