It sounds like you are dealing with a stretched chain. If the chain will not tension any further, you may be looking at the need to purchase a new chain. Use your model and serial number at the following link to order a new chain.
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when shifting gears on bikes you have to keep pedalling but with out load on the chain
shift one gear at a time as multiple gear selections may cause chain jump
do not pedal backwards as the selector is for forward motion only
Do this by pulling up on the spring and unhooking the spring from the frame post
Next, using the snap ring pliers and proper tips, remove the snap ring from the spring pulley shaft
**Important: Be sure to wear safety goggles when working with snap rings**
Remove and inspect the spring pulley for any flat spots replacing the pulley if necessary
Flat spots develop over time and can result in roughness in the pedals
On the side that the pulley was just removed, slowly press the pedal down
Remove the step chain retainer brackets (if equipped) using the 7/16" wrench, 7/16" socket and socket wrench
Once the retainer bracket is removed, the spring can be lifted up over the drive sprocket and disconnected from the chain
The spring is opened at one end to allow for maneuvering over the link
Using the standard or needle nose pliers, remove the master link attaching the step chain to the pedal arm
Place one jaw of the pliers against the open end of the clip (if installed correctly, the open end of the clip is opposite the direction of chain travel) and the other jaw of the pliers against the far side of the nearest rivet coming through the keeper link; and squeeze pliers together
This should pop the clip free allowing you to remove it from the master link
Next remove the link bar
Finally remove the master link disconnecting the chain from the pedal arm
Inspect the new step chain making sure all the chain links flex
Manufacturer recommends lubricating the step chain with 30W motor oil using a clean rag to remove any excess
Attach the new step chain to the pedal arm reversing the steps taken to disconnect the chain
Relieve tension on the opposite spring by lifting up on the spring and unhooking it from the frame post
Slowly press the pedal down
Feed the spring around the pulley and lift the chain up over the sprocket to move it out of the way
Disconnect the remaining two bolts from the drive hub assembly
Lift the drive chain over the sprocket and pull the drive hub from the frame
As the drive hub assembly starts to develop problems, you may feel clicking, hear some grinding sounds, or a pedal may stick in one position (which usually happens on one side); All of which are indicators of a worn drive hub assembly
The drive hub can be replaced as a complete unit
The drive hub consists of (3) sprockets
Two one way clutch sprockets that drive in one direction and slip in the opposite direction which are for the step chains
A larger sprocket that spins either direction and is for the drive chain
An inspection of the drive hub can help determine need for replacement
If either of the one way clutch sprockets slip in both directions, they need replaced
If there is a catch in any of the sprockets in any position, then it likely needs replaced
Reinstall the drive hub the same way it was removed
Slip the drive chain over the drive sprocket before mounting the hub assembly to the frame
The drive hub assembly on the SC916 stepper only has 4 bolt positions. The drive hub assembly on the 4400 and 4600 steppers has bolt holes all around the hub allowing the hub to be rotated for chain tension adjustment. The SC916 stepper has a preset tension and the adjustment is no longer necessary
Once the drive hub is bolted to the frame, reinstall the step chains on each side
Place the free end of the step chain (opposite the pedal arm connection) up over the step chain sprocket
Lift up on the pedal and pull down on the step chain
Place a hand on the sprocket keeping the step chain from feeding back and allowing the pedal to drop
Grab the spring with your opposite hand and join the spring to the step chain
Once the spring is attached to the chain, press the pedal down again
Reinstall the spring pulley and the snap ring onto the pulley shaft
Lift up on the pedal and pull the spring to route through the pulley, hooking the spring onto its frame post
Repeat these steps to attach the step chain and spring on the opposite side
Reinstall the step chain brackets (if equipped) making sure all bolts face the same direction
This concludes the video demonstration of replacing the drive hub, spring pulley and chains on the Stairmaster steppers
Sounds like the freewheel mechanism is jamming up. You could try soaking the freewheel, where the sprockets are, in something like WD-40, but most likely, the sprocket is going to need replaced. Your local bike shop can provide the correct part.
which chain is falling off. the one from the motor? if so check to make sure the sproket (ps i cant spell) and gear fom motor is lined up. on mine i remember having to flip the rear sproket. are you using the chain tenchiner pulley? i think the one that comes with the kit dosnt have a deep enough gruve. i got rid of it all together, and just made the chain fit with like 1.5 to 3 inches of play. ive seen people use the tenchiner from the rear shifting gear on a mountain bike. thats what i suggest. if its the chain from your pedals thats falling of the the guys from the bike shop are messing with you or the alined the wrong chain. or maybe you need to resize the chian they just got the wheel straight.
Your chain may have a stiff link or links. It is important to keep your chain lubed. TriFlow is highly recommended. Watch you chain as it passes through the jockey wheels on the rear derailleur, you should easily find the stiff links. Use WD40 to break it loose and work it with pliers.
My first thought about the chain continuuin to become loose, is that you need to loosen the nuts on the back wheel, and pull the wheel (while the chain is still attached to bot hsprockets) in order to remove any slack. If it's a continuous issue, chances are that back tire keeps migrating forward because those nuts aren't tight enough.
To the pedal issue-If the pedals are wobbling or vibrating because the aren't snug while on the pedal bar (the bar that the pedals revolve around) it is probably because the peddals are too large. Try buying a new set of pedals. If they are loose and trying to slip off of the pedal bar and if you have tightened the nuts that keep the pedal on the pedal bar and they are continuing to become loose, it could be that you need to use locking nuts.
A quick fix to solving loose pedals is to add washers to the end of the bar until the washers are flush up against the pedal and the nut.
If the pulleys are too close to the cassette you'll feel clicking. Or if your chosen gear combination is such that the derailleur can't take up the chain slack.
Coming off which side ? - outside toward the frame member or inside to the spokes.
You should avoid using the small chainring and small cog combination which is silly on the one hand, damaging to the drivetrain and usually results in a lot of slack chain dangling down between the derailleur and the cranks.
Here are instructions on how to set the limit screws which determine the physical end limits where the derailleur can lead the chain.
Set the rear derailleur to the lowest gear (big cog) and the front to the lowest gear (small chain ring). Disconnect the derailleur cable. Screw in the adjuster for the cable tension all the way (this adjuster is on the shifter of a mountain bike or the down tube of a road bike). Pedal to make sure the chain is not rubbing on the derailleur cage. If it is, adjust the "L" setting on the derailleur until the chain moves by without touching the cage. Now pull taut and reattch the cable and shift the front to the big ring while pedaling. If it does not shift up well or completely, hold the shifter past its normal shift and adjust the "H" screw so that the derailleur allows the shift. Shift into the highest cassette gear and keep pedaling. The chain should not be touching the front derailleur's cage when you pedal. Adjust with the barrel adjuster until the chain moves freely without touching the derailleur cage.
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