GE Profile PSW26P Stainless Steel Side by Side Refrigerator Logo

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Posted on Apr 28, 2017
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My refrigerator/freezer is warm

Ok, now totally frustrated. I replaced the control board but it's still not fixed, just different. The clicking stopped. The hrs flashing stopped. It displays 58 for the freezer temp and 66 for the frige. replaced the part last night and tried to set the temp, I can hit the temp button arrow button and it shows 0 -1 etc but then after a second it goes back to 58 and 66 and nothing changes. I also tried the custom cool drawer this morning, set it for 45 minutes and it sure sounded like it was working, but after 45 minutes that wasn't cold either. help! please!

1 Answer

Wbix

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  • Master 364 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 28, 2017
Wbix
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Joined: Mar 23, 2010
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If the motor is running but it's not getting cold then you may have lost coolant. Did someone clean the ice out with a knife?

5 Related Answers

A

Anonymous

  • Posted on Sep 28, 2007

SOURCE: GE Arctica fridge PSS26LRBSS - temp control blinks '0'

set to 0 for freezer, and 37 for fridge. give it 24 hours to stablize. blinking could mean it is adjusting.

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Sea Breeze

John Tripp

  • 4656 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 25, 2007

SOURCE: GE GSS22sgrf ss - Side-by-side refrigerator

I need to make sure that your refrigerator model and make numbers are listed correctly. Im having trouble with the information listed above your comments. I have GE data base and want you to look at the hyper link listed below.  and let me know if this or I can help lead you in the correct direction, Thanks, Sea Breeze
http://www.appliance-parts-warehouse.com/general-electric-parts/General-Electric-Refrigerator-Parts-Page-6901.cfm

Anonymous

  • 57 Answers
  • Posted on May 20, 2008

SOURCE: selected temp for freezer and

If the fan is running you more than likely have a defrost problem.
look at the back wall of the freezer section if it is frosted up.
If it is frosted up. it's not defrosting.
There three components in this system. The defrost heater, the defrost termination stat., and the defrost timer. Newer refrigerators do not have a timer per say it is build into a electronic board usually mounted on the back of the refrigerator under a metal plate. The termination stat is the cheapest part @ $ 25.00. The heater should run @ 50.00 to 70.00. The board could be as much as 200.00 or more. If the refrigerator is over 10 years old you may wish to look into getting a replacement. Appliances are designed to start failing after 10 years old.
My opinion.
If you unplug the refrigerator let it defrost then plug it back in. it will work properly about 3 days before it frosts back up.
Hope this helps

Sea Breeze

John Tripp

  • 4656 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 26, 2009

SOURCE: refrig & freezer not cooling properly

I believe the start relay and start capacitor with the overload will need replaced. That is easy and should solve your problem, Sea Breeze

BIKER T

Terence Fourie

  • 909 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 21, 2009

SOURCE: GE Profile Arctica Refrigerator Displays OFF PSS29NGNAWW

Sadly i would say the board is malfunctioning and needs replacement. There is nothing in the fridge/ freezer that if malfunctions can cause that.

Testimonial: "Exactly what I thought. Thank you very much. Do you know the exact part number to purchase?"

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0helpful
1answer

Still not getting cold

First, if the compressor doesn't run, it'll never get cold. You didn't say if it ran or not.

The defrost circuit is *designed* to cut the compressor out of the circuit during the 2 - 3 times (8 to 12 hour intervals) each day it goes into defrost mode. The compressor will remain off until the defrost temperature sensor (hidden in the freezer section) reaches 50 degrees (or so) *OR* for 20 to 25 minutes each time the defrost timer cycles on. If it is stuck in defrost mode because it failed to advance due to a bad clock motor or because of bad contacts, it will *prevent* the compressor circuit from ever being energized.

Check into this circuit and the location of this timer for your particular fridge. You should not need to worry about the defrost terminator, thermistor, sensor, heater or anything else in the *defrost circuit* at this time to get the compressor running.

I hope this helps & good luck!
0helpful
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Hi ! my 3 years old fridge Samsung Rs2630ww

lashing light stating that its too warm .. compressor probably is not running / power is ok or lights would not be on . look for a bad relay . somethes you can here clicking in back.
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Area around freezer opening on a PDS20S GE

This is uaually caused by the condenser fan next to the compressor not running. Remove the cardboard backing to see it, give it a spin if it's not running. Even if it starts running with a spin you'll need to replace it.
Or If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too. check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

How to check everything
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php
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Motor is running but both refrigerator and freezer are not cooling

Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay.
Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm


How to check stuff>
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).

If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer are icing up(totally blocked) because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.

check defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost thermostat. In most newer models the timer has been replaced by an electronic control board. If the heater and thermostat are ok it’ll be the control.

You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.


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Refrigerator side won't cool, but freezer side working.

For those who had the control board replaced or are experiencing the frig side warming while the freezer side continues freezing; The problem may (still) be a faulty control board. I fixed the issue by replacing a $1.00 capacitor on the board. I'm not a techy and it wasn't too difficult to solder. More info on what to do here; DIY Chatroom
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Slow compressor fan

You need to remove the fan and test it somewhere different. The compressor is in need of the condenser fan. Everything will overheat without that fan working. You should also test the power at that pin plug. Let me know what you find. Sea Breeze
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The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp ..
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Whirlpool gold gd25df Fridge/freezer warm

Your fan in the freezer is wearing out. When your food in the freezer is blocking the air, the motor is working too hard. After years of using, it needs to be replaced. Get a repair man in to replace with a new parts. My Fridge/Freezer was totally broken and I found this out because the ice was melting. It got fixed and now no problem.
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