Igniter wont start glowing furnace clicks but the igniter doesn't come on
SOURCE: no hot surface igniter
This is why swapping parts is never a good idea. It could be a board, pressure switch, or several other issues. I'm a service technician and realize that many furnace issues are difficult to diagnose over the phone, or internet.
Calling a qualified, NATE certified technician to diagnose and repair this properly is probably the best solution that I could suggest. Yes, there will be a bill and it will be expensive, but it will be a lot less so than changing out parts you might not need.
www.natex.org
SOURCE: goodman gmnt100-4b wont ignite
I had the same problem. I had to remove a return air duct filter that i had installed and it worked just fine. The system needs plenty of air flow to operate.
SOURCE: dependable ninety two blower comes on no igniter glow gas flows
if you dont see the glow of the ignitor it is probably bad . you can check with a meter that has an ohms scale, unplug and test ignitor side OL would be a bad ignitor 45-110ohms ok.
SOURCE: Furnace does not turn on normally
Having to reset it tells me that there is probably an error code blinking on the control board. Look for a small viewing port that looks into the cabinet. Count the number of blinks then remove the panels to find the wiring diagram pasted on one of them. On the diagram you will find a diagnostic code to help you narrow down the problem. It could be as simple as a plugged air filter.
On a call for heat, the 24 volt thermostat sends a signal to the control module. The control module will indicate a call for heat with a light on the control either blinking or remain solid depending upon model. The inducer (exhaust) blower will purge all gasses from the furnace and pressurize a pressure switch. Once the pressure switch tells the module to continue, the electronic ignition will energize and send 120 volts to the igniter. The igniter will glow and you will be able to see it if viewed thru the small inspection port. Once the igniter gets hot enough, it sends a signal to the module opening up the gas valve (24 volts). Either a pilot will come on or the burner tube will ignite then spread the flame to all burners. Lastly a safety sensor will be looking for a certain temperature within a few seconds and the furnace will continue to operate and the room air blower will turn on in a minute or two.
What could go wrong? The unit will not run if there is no signal from the thermostat (bad thermostat or broken wire), the control module does not sense a signal from the thermostat (bad control), the inducer does not energize (bad motor), the pressure switch does not close (blocked vent piping, bad switch, plugged condensate hose), the igniter does not energize (bad control, bad igniter), the gas valve does not open or there is no gas (bad gas valve, broken wire, no gas), the pilot does not light (dirty pilot), the burner does not light (bad burner, plugged orifice, not enough combustion air), the flame does not spread to each burner (bad flame spreader, dirty flame spreader, more bad burners), the flame safety sensor does not detect flame (dirty or bad flame spreader, bad flame sensor, broken wire, bad control), or the room air blower does not energize (bad fan motor, bad control).
SOURCE: goodman furnace ignitor works, blower starts up
sounds more like a pressure switch problem. If the pressure switch does not make, then the furnace will not attempt to light. Its a safety feature on residential furnaces.
Check the pressure switch and hose for obstructions. Clear any and attempt to re-light. If still not successful, its time to contact a local service company to check the gas valves and electronics.
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