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Siemens oven not heating to high temperatures

The oven used to heat to 200C in around 10-12 minutes. It now takes 30-40 mins, and will not hold the temperature when the roast is put in. The oven will also not reach maximum temperature any longer e.g 220-30C. The upper element will heat and grill fish. Is it the thermostat that is faulty.

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Possibly,but i would check both upper and lower elements are working first, lower element is hidden so test from the back with a multieter after removing oven fuse from the power box

Posted on Feb 05, 2018

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Eric Kirkhuff

  • 95 Answers

SOURCE: heating element will not heat

With all that you said, I would suspect an open or faulty element. It is pretty much the most obvious solution.

If you have any electronically ability and you are going to open the oven, use an ohm or resistance meter, check the amount of ohms and use the upper element as a reference for the correct reading.
The element will either read open or good. You can use a light tester also and if the light lights between the two connectors of the elements, then it is ok and look elsewhere.

E

Posted on Mar 02, 2009

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2 Answers

My whirlpool oven (AXP206/IX) is not reaching the temperature I want, 200c. It will only go to about 175c. Any ideas please?


are all the elements heating (glowing ) when on , ifnot then the ones that are not possibly need replaced .

Oct 28, 2015 | Whirlpool Ovens

1 Answer

Why does my zanussi oven ZBF360x turn off after 45 minutes?


The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!
Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element
The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.









Why is the oven temperature incorrect?

The oven temperature control is usually controlled by a thermostat that uses a capillary and liquid filled bulb. When the bulb's liquid gets heated up, it expands and puts pressure on a diaphragm which opens and closes a switch that controls the gas to the burner. Just set the dial to what you need the temperature to be. Over time, it is possible for your thermostat to lose its calibration. Sometimes, the thermostat sensing bulb comes loose from the holder. If it is out of place, the thermostat may be getting faulty readings. If this is the problem, re-aligning

May 07, 2014 | Zanussi Ovens

1 Answer

Gas Pizza Oven - Heat issues


Many of the Pizza ovens require ceramic plates that line the bottom surface of each oven. These ceramic plates absorb the heat and retain the temperature. I never used our ovens with a bare lower surface, always applied the plates for even heat and distribution.

Mar 05, 2014 | Ovens

1 Answer

Oven is taking to long to heat


look for the temperature sensor inside the oven cavity in the upper left or top center of the upper oven cavity,its will be a silver or copper colored rod about 1/4" by 2" to 6" long this rod senses the oven temp and cycles the heat to the oven

Jun 03, 2012 | Kenmore 30464 / 30465 / 30469 Gas Single...

1 Answer

My Bosch HBN 5605 .0B oven has a 15-20 degree undertemperature when operating on the conventional baking setting - all other settings are ok


I detected a similar problem following the sudden appearance of Err1 in the display. (Oven 4-5 years old, and the grill element failed when it was 3-4 years old). This indicated a temperature sensor problem. My local dealer came with his Thermocouple and confirmed an "under temperature" reading on the standard and baking settings. I agree that the fan setting is probably OK. He replaced the sensor. I monitored the situation for a while and was not happy because an under temperature could be quite dangerous when cooking certain foods, and also causes problems when baking bread.

The location of the oven sensor is also a problem because it is at the top right by the grill which also serves as the top heat source.

I had corresponded with Bosch about this and their response was, frankly, less than satisfactory. In the end I decided to call out their engineer (cost £85-ish) who wired my oven up to his computer. In the end he said that the oven was working as it should be (despite it taking a very long time to actually reach the target temperature of 200C.

In my view of I want 200C, then I should get 200C, not an approximation.

Interestingly the secret info (not in the manual) is that the temperature bar readout does not indicate that it has reached the actual temperature, but may be 90% of the temperature (so if you want 200C you get 180C.

An unsatisfactory solution is to get an oven temperature of the meat probe type and put that in the oven, then you will get a more accurate reading of the temperature. You would need one that goes above 200C (my first one only goes to 200 but I have found another that goes to 250C). Mine is by CDN model DTP482, any good cook shop should stock this.

Andrew Finch

Jan 02, 2010 | Bosch HBN 430560B / 430520B Single Oven

1 Answer

After self cleaning the oven, now the oven won't heat up


Usually this is caused by either a bad temperature sensor, a shorted wiring harness, or commonly a faulty controller. The temperature sensor and wiring can be checked with an ohm meter.

When you program the oven for a high temperature what does the display read after ten minutes or so?

- www.fixyourboard.com

Jul 29, 2009 | Whirlpool RBS275PD Electric Single Oven

2 Answers

Whirlpool Accubake Super Capacity 465 gas range. Oven won't light


Some gas ranges may take 10 or so minutes to light.
Other than that you may have a defective glow bar ignitor.
If it glows and does not light the reistance in the ignitior has failed.

Feb 25, 2009 | Ovens

2 Answers

My oven turns off on me after only a minute never heating up fully


Could be caused by either of following;

1. Faulty thermostat.
2. Faulty thermal cut out switch. (controls power to cooling fan).
3. Faulty cooling fan (not fan inside oven).

Test thermostat by setting thermostat to low temperature like 60 oC. If oven gets much hotter then its a faulty thermostat.
To test cooling fan and thermal switch take oven out and remove top or rear panels to expose components.
When oven gets hot the cooling fan should turn on. If it doesn't then check to see if there is a mains voltage present.
If mains current exist but fan is not turning then replace fan. If mains voltage is not present then its the thermal switch.

Jun 19, 2008 | AEG B1180-4 Electric Single Oven

1 Answer

Stoves 720ef top oven warms but does not reach high temps. element replaced - no fix. thermostat ok as heating light cycles on and off at around 120 deg C, but reluctant to get hotter.


Have the same problem. Went and bought an oven thermometer from Lakeland and found that when the top oven thermostat was set to 160, the temperature only got to 140. I did clean the sensor inside the oven using a cleaner from Lakeland which did improve matters but it is still running cooler that it should. ( It takes at least 20 to 30 mins to warm up)

May 01, 2008 | Stoves 720EF Electric Double Oven

2 Answers

Oven taking a long timt to heat to temperature


Try shutting off the breaker for about 10 minutes - then bring the power back on

Sep 20, 2007 | GE Profile JT912 Electric Single Oven

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