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No pressure when pulling trigger, trigger sticks in handle body
When I pull the trigger nothing happens...trigger stays in handle does not retract as if a return spring is broken..anvil does not spin when trigger is pulled
Re: No pressure when pulling trigger, trigger sticks in...
If air sound comes out when you press trigger your pressure regulator pin is stuck-oil gun and attach hose repeate until pin frees or remove pin and clean with brake kleaN oil and replace
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Nothing online, but you can buy another on eBay for $17 with a manual. I would have said "it is easy, put a glue stick in the back end and pull the trigger" but it has no trigger. The red handle on the back appears to pull back like a caulking gun, but still wonder how it can work with no trigger?
There is a pressure switch that turns off the pump when it gets to a certain pressure. It sounds like that switch is sticking. The contacts should be closed when you first turn on the pump. If you hold open the trigger when you first turn on the pump and the pump stays on then that pressure switch is most likely the problem. If you turn on the pump with the trigger open and the pump runs for a few seconds and then turns off check for a blocked nozzle.
I bought 2 rubbermaid reveal spray mops before I figured this out. You'll need a Phillips and flat head screwdriver & a can of WD40. On the compartment that holds the liquid cleaner bottle there are 2 screws and 1 screw on the connector piece to the mop head. Unscrew all three. The one by the mop head came out and the other two stayed in their holes. Then with a flathead screwdriver gently pull the seam along the side apart. You only need 1/2-1 inch of a gap. If you pull it open all the way you'll pop a few other pieces out of place and have to piece them all back together- so gently! Then spray some WD40 in along the exposed spring using the red straw that comes with the can. Close the gap, hold it together and try the trigger a few times. If the trigger is still sticking spray more WD40 in until it frees up. Then screw your screws back in and it's as good as new!
Most recoil assemblies are easy to fix...but not in an obvious way. Remove the recoil asembly from the small engine housing/flywheel cover. Usually three bolts hold it on. 10mm on Honda's. Pull the remaining rope thru the exit hole if possible. Otherwise, fish remaining rope thru the hole by turning rope winding pulley as if pulling handle was still attached, lining up any remaining rope end and pushing thru the exit hole in outer recoil housing or backing it out the inside pulley. Continue to wind rope winding pulley in a counterclockwise ( facing pulley...not outer metal) untill it will not tighten any further. Remove any more old rope. Line up pulley hole and exit hole. Melt end of new rope into a tapered shape..if not supplied that way. the pulley can be held in place by inserting a screwdriver thru the both the pulley and the metal housing spokes. Thread the new rope thru the exit and pulley hole. Tie the rope end sticking thru and draw tight. Cut 6 feet of rope...if not using a presized pull. Release screwdriver from spokes and rope should draw up onto the pulley. Tie off opposite end of the rope to keep from losing that end into the exit hole. put the handle on the rope and tie a knot in the end to retain the handle. Untie the tie-off and allow the handle to fully retract. If handle does not fully retract you may shorten the rope so that it does...as long as you have plenty of pull lenght
Installed improperly or the rope is not the proper size. Most recoil assemblies are easy to fix...but not in an obvious way. Remove the recoil asembly from the small engine housing/flywheel cover. Usually three bolts hold it on. 10mm on Honda's. Pull the remaining rope thru the exit hole if possible. Otherwise, fish remaining rope thru the hole by turning rope winding pulley as if pulling handle was still attached, lining up any remaining rope end and pushing thru the exit hole in outer recoil housing or backing it out the inside pulley. Continue to wind rope winding pulley in a counterclockwise ( facing pulley...not outer metal) untill it will not tighten any further. Remove any more old rope. Line up pulley hole and exit hole. Melt end of new rope into a tapered shape..if not supplied that way. the pulley can be held in place by inserting a screwdriver thru the both the pulley and the metal housing spokes. Thread the new rope thru the exit and pulley hole. Tie the rope end sticking thru and draw tight. Cut 6 feet of rope...if not using a presized pull. Release screwdriver from spokes and rope should draw up onto the pulley. Tie off opposite end of the rope to keep from losing that end into the exit hole. put the handle on the rope and tie a knot in the end to retain the handle. Untie the tie-off and allow the handle to fully retract. If handle does not fully retract you may shorten the rope so that it does...as long as you have plenty of pull lenght.
I'm not sure if this is an attempted repair or whether this just "happened" but here is my repair procedure. Jammed could be worn or dirty rope or rope improperly sized for the machine...or crushed housing. A broken or slipped spring can seem jammed. Sometimes a spring can be re-bent on the inner most winding tab to catch on the housing.
Most recoil assemblies are easy to fix...but not in an obvious way. Remove the recoil asembly from the small engine housing/flywheel cover. Usually three bolts hold it on. 10mm on Honda's. Pull the remaining rope thru the exit hole if possible. Otherwise, fish remaining rope thru the hole by turning rope winding pulley as if pulling handle was still attached, lining up any remaining rope end and pushing thru the exit hole in outer recoil housing or backing it out the inside pulley. Continue to wind rope winding pulley in a counterclockwise ( facing pulley...not outer metal) untill it will not tighten any further. Remove any more old rope. Line up pulley hole and exit hole. Melt end of new rope into a tapered shape..if not supplied that way. the pulley can be held in place by inserting a screwdriver thru the both the pulley and the metal housing spokes. Thread the new rope thru the exit and pulley hole. Tie the rope end sticking thru and draw tight. Cut 6 feet of rope...if not using a presized pull. Release screwdriver from spokes and rope should draw up onto the pulley. Tie off opposite end of the rope to keep from losing that end into the exit hole. put the handle on the rope and tie a knot in the end to retain the handle. Untie the tie-off and allow the handle to fully retract. If handle does not fully retract you may shorten the rope so that it does...as long as you have plenty of pull lenght
Most likely has nothing to do with oil change. Have someone hold the trigger on handle open to relieve pressure on system/pump , this will make engine turn easier when you pull rope.
make sure air is not attached. take out the two roll pins holding the trigger cartridge in. pull it out and check inside to make sure nothing stays in. you should see the metal in the handle. You have to have the trigger valve for that gun. press it in and replace roll pins. good luck
open the area were the role of wire is and check when trigger pulled if any action to feed motor. [wire might be stuck at end, or there usually is a small fuse in that area for feed motor]
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