Up until about 2 weeks ago it worked like a champ. Now nothing.I don't even here the water running to fill the mold back up. There is a red light flashing next to the on-off switch, but I have know idea what that is. I do know it's not the light that tells me to replace the filter.
Icemaker Tips
Manually starting a 'harvest' cycle:
Two basic designs of domestic, analog icemakers are most common. (Electronic models come & go from time to time - shudder - but we aren't seeing them in great numbers - yet)
Pop the front cover off yours and check the large gear front & center. If the front plate is metal, and you see a Phillips
screw in the center of this gear, that's great - you own a 'microswitch' design. This is one of the most reliable units ever made! Here's what it looks like with the front cover off:
To manually start a cycle, either grasp the ejector and rotate upward (CW fr. front), or use a screwdriver to turn the smaller gear (CCW) if yours has a slot for this. Once you turn it a short distance, you'll hear a little 'click and the unit will start to run. Make sure the ice-sensing bail has clearance to raise & lower during this test cycle.
If there's no screw, that's OK too, you own a 'modular' unit, and even though we, um, make more income from these <grin>, they're still pretty decent. Here's what a modular looks like with the front cover off:
To start a cycle with this one, don't attempt to turn the gears manually! You'll need a short piece of insulated solid copper wire, 12-14 gauge. (Just strip a 4 in. piece out of some 12-2 'romex' used in house wiring
.) Strip the ends back about ¾ in. and bend it into a 'U' shape. This wire is inserted into the holes marked 'T' and 'H' in the front of the icemaker to bypass the tstat and run a cycle. (don't insert it into any holes except 'T' & 'H' !) Remove the jumper after a few seconds (or the heater will stay on), and let it run, waiting for the fill at the end. Again, make sure the ice-sensing bail has clearance to raise & lower during your test cycle.
Note: I stress this jumper wire needs to be insulated, because you're briefly jumping 120V here. The usual precautions apply
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The water supply line from the water inlet valve enters the rear of the freezer and releases the water into a large diameter fill tube. The fill tubes hangs above the fill cup which funnels the water into the ice mold. If the fill tube and fill cup are improperly aligned, water may spill out instead of going into the mold.
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