Heating element support is black

How many times???

Did you replace the Heating element with the housing or did you purchase the coil and ran through the old element housing. If you did the latter, make sure it will not touch the element housing and short out. This case you will see a black burn spark on the housing close to the element broken point. Did you lock in the heating element ends to the ceramic plate.

Sure can!
Most Kenmore style dryers have a heating element that has a long wire coil inside it, (often there are two wires or elements inside one housing). Regardless, if you have carefully checked the air exhaust, and you find it is "perfect" ( means no back-up heat from a plugged or impeded air flow) and you have determined the air flow inside the machine is like new, ( no back up there either), then what has possible happened is the wire heating element has wiggled loose and is touching itself, thereby shorting out and making super heat.
The wire coils are usually held loosely in place with white ceramic rings, to keep them from touching the metal housing. If you carefully remove the heating element "box or "tube" and look inside , you may be able to see the problem. Testing it with an ohm meter will not work, it will simply test OK. The element is made to heat at a certain temperature according to it's length, if it touches itself, the elecrttricity will take the shortest route and may make your element glow white hot in one spot. Be blessed.

mr heater makes a whistling sound as gas escapes around the gasket of the ceramic heating elements, that is ,all around the outside edges of the ceramic heating elements.

You can find out exactly where the gas leak is , by pressing down on the outside edges of the ceramic elements with a big, long
slotted (flat bladed) screwdriver while mr heater is running and hot.

The screwdriver needs to be long enough so that you dont burn your hands [the longer & bigger the screwdriver, the better] & it does not hurt to wear heavy gloves too, because it gets very hot, very fast in front of mr heater.
The thicker the blade of the screwdriver is, the less chance of damaging the ceramic heating element because a thick bladed screwdriver will not concentrate all the pressure in just 1 tiny point.

You are not trying to crack the ceramic with a wood chisel.

Dont press down so hard that you break the ceramic heating element, start by pressing down gently and gradually increasing pressure until you notice a change in the whistle or sparks comming out of the heating element as loose carbon deposits
come out of the heating element and burn in the propaine flame.

When you press down on one edge ,the other opposite edge may come up slightly, resulting in loose carbon deposits escaping and burning as sparks.

also, you may not be pressing at the spot where the gas whistling is comming from and will need to move the screwdriver flat blade around the edges, here & there, to test for the effect of pressing down.

When you press down on the outside edge where the diamonds stop, while mr heater is whisteling, the whisteling will stop & mr heater will run quite. Sometimes, just pushing down with the screwdriver will stop the whisteling ,for a while,and maybe a good long while.

The big pain in the **** solution is to put a new gasket around the
ceramic heating elements, but there is no guarantee that the new gasket will not whistle.
Its a big ,nasty job, which I would rather not do--so I just push down with the screwdriver, to temporarly stop the whisteling, I guess it depends on how much the whisteling annoys you, as to if you want to go thru all the effort & expense of changing out the gaskets, without knowing if it will still whistle when you are done.

Im just a diy guy that has 3 big buddys I keep going for 4 yrs now.
I took one apart to look 4 the cause of the gas whistling, and then put it back together. Funny,it stopped whisteling & that was 3 yrs ago. I didnt put in any new parts.

It may help ,a lot ,to increase the pressure with which the Mr heater ceramic is pressed down against the gasket material.


This is accomplished by a heavy stainless steel wire that runs behind the ceramic heater element and goes through sheet metal
tabs on each side of the ceramic mounting frame.
You can bend the wire and the tabs,but only a little bit, and be very careful not to break the tabs because the tabs are not repairable, to increase the downwards pressure of the ceramic element against the gasket material. This may stop the gas whisteling--
its a try & see thing, a finicky adjustment, that sometimes works
& sometimes does not and sometimes, after a week or two, the ceramic might reseat itself against the gasket material and the whistling stop. Mine did stop whistling, but not until a couple of months after i did the job, due ,i think to reseating of the cermic against the gasket material. its try & see thing.


also ,a gas tank that has higher than average gas pressure may start gas whistling up but the whistling will stop after you have burned up the higher pressure of the propaine.

These Bionaires (including your 9212 and its taller version, the 9224) have a small temperature safety relay mounted slightly above the ceramic heating elements. Its purpose it to shut off the elements if they overheat, which I would assume would happen if the fan stops working or possibly if the outlet to the front becomes blocked (and these ceramic elements, which are like a radiator core, do get a lot of dust accumulated on the inside which will block air flow). The sensor is a small unit with exposed contacts and if these contacts open (driven by the temperature sensor connected to them) or if these contacts do not have good contact (say by dirt or oxidation build up that makes them effectively fully or partially open) then the ceramic elements will not work. My best suggestion to explain your problem is that the contacts on that safety switch became dirty during storage. The only way to verify that (and possibly repair the unit) requires taking the outside shell off and cleaning the contacts of the safety switch with either a small, fine file (like the old ignition files) or maybe fine emery cloth.

Sounds like the heating elements are dirty. needs to be unplugged and cleaned out. Caution light means elements have overheated.

This is a hp error for a broken fuser unit. You need to post more info for anyone to give a firm answer, ie make and model of machine and when after power on does the error message show. If you have a HP, then your fuser unit is not reaching temperature by the required time. Most likely the ceramic heating element is blown.

I believe this is a ceramic filler... non conductive... takes the heat... and I dont know what the health risk is.

google digesting ceramic might give you an insight.
we know it's not asbestos... they dont use that product anymore...

Only thing else I can think of is Mica... they use that in toasters...

Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/lisa_52daba487e5b4d53

More likely to be a faulty regulator switch, if the element was faulty, it is unlikely it would work at all.
Plz rate my solution. Thanks.

this video might help you with fitting an element

You-Tube video "h_WMwQ-M33A" placeholder (do not delete)

i think it's the heat sensor on the heat element become defectif because i have 2 coffee maker that did the same probleme en the heat element si not plog with calcium or other residiu so imloking for finding where to by that part