Oven taking too long too bake.

I would check the oven sensor it may be defective

Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little:

If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem.

Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake?
When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it.

Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it.
On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat.

Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage

ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings.
Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard.
When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps.
First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring.
Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element.
Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity.
Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be.
To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced.

The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced.

Surface burners
are typically either a coil type, solid type or a ribbon coil as used in smooth top ranges. All of these consist of a heating wire that uses electric current to produce heat. Coil type elements can be checked for continuity by removing them from the terminal block and testing them with a multi-meter.

You should also inspect the terminal ends for signs of heat damage or corrosion, and if present, you should replace the terminal block or receptacle at the same time. You will need to remove power from the range to change the terminal block. Solid elements and smooth top elements require raising or removing the main top to gain access. You will need to remove power from the range before lifting the main top. Continuity can then be checked with a multi-meter, once you have removed the wires from the element terminals.

On modern electronic control ranges, the oven temperature sensor
is the part that regulates the oven temperature. If it is not working properly it could be the reason why the range or oven won't start. This part can be found inside the oven on the rear wall near the top. Most modern ovens will display a fault code if the oven sensor is at fault. If you think the sensor may be the issue you can check the resistance with a multi-meter but will need to know the correct resistance of the sensor at room temperature. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test.

The infinite switch
on the control panel controls the power to each surface element. If you have no heat at an element and the element and terminal block check ok, then you may have a defective infinite switch. Disconnect power to the range and remove the console back panel. Locate the switch and check for overheated wires or faulty terminals first. Test the switch's contacts for continuity with a multi-meter. If defective, replace the switch.
If the infinite switch does not appear to be defective, then you should check for proper voltage to the switch. This is a live high voltage test and should only be performed by qualified persons.

Most modern ovens use an electronic control board
to control the oven functions. These models will use the control board to operate the oven safety valve on a gas range or oven, and the bake and broil elements on an electric range or oven. If there is no power to the igniter circuit, or the element circuits, then you should check the control board to verify that there is power at the appropriate output relay. These are live voltage checks and should be performed by qualified persons only. If there is no output voltage then the control should be replaced.

It could be one of two things either the control board or the temperature probe and I suspect the probe and that is a do it yourself job.

The oven temperature sensor on your Kenmore range is a one-piece unit that mounts to the rear oven wall with a mounting plate. The sensor is not difficult to change. You will need to dismantle the rear panel from the oven to access the mounting plate. Most appliance repair shops will have replacement sensors. It is a good idea to take the old sensor with you along with the model number of your oven. This way you will be sure to get the correct replacement sensor for your oven.

Unplug the Kenmore oven power cord from the wall outlet. Move the oven range away from the wall so that you can access the back of the unit. (Ask a friend to assist you to move the oven. if necessary.) The oven may use an anti-tip bracket on one of the rear legs. Push the oven toward the back wall to release the leg from the bracket in the floor. Tilt the back of the oven toward you, and pull the oven forward.

Remove the screws that secure the back panel to the oven with a Phillips-head screwdriver. Pull the back panel away from the unit and set the panel out of the work area.

3

Locate the mounting plate for the oven temperature sensor on the upper right side of the back of the oven. There will be a single wire coming from the back of the mounting plate and the wire mounts to a clip.

4

Follow the wire to the connector on the other end. Pull the connector on the wire to disconnect the wire from the wiring harness.

5

Remove the two screws that secure the mounting plate to the rear of the oven with a Phillips-head screwdriver. Pull the temperature sensor straight out of the oven. Unclip the sensor wire from the mounting clip.

6

Take the oven temperature sensor to an appliance repair facility to purchase a replacement. Insert the sensor end of the temperature sensor through the hole in the back of the oven. Slide the sensor all the way until the sensor mounting plate is flush against the oven. Secure the sensor with the two mounting screws.

7

Connect the sensor wire to the connector by pushing the connector until it locks in place. Snap the wire inside the retaining clip.

8

Place the back panel back over the rear of the oven and secure the panel with the retaining screws. Slide the Kenmore oven back into its working position and plug the power cord into the wall outlet.

Hello.


Theoven is a particularly sturdy piece of kitchen equipment. It can handle dailyuse and still perform as needed. But of course, as with everything over time,the oven can eventually have some things go wrong with it. The first signs maybe subtle, like your cake not being cooked through, or you may notice the oventaking much longer than usual to come to temperature. When looking inside theoven as it is heating, you may notice tiny sparks along the bake element. Anyof these symptoms may mean it's time to replace the bake element.Instructionsand tools below Screwdriver, Newbake element, Electrical tape, Fiberglass tape, Flashlight1 The first step when it comes to working on yourelectric oven is to turn the breaker off at your home's service panel, orbreaker box. This is extremely important, because most electric ovens require220-volt electricity to operate, and that voltage won't only hit you hard, itcan kill you. Place a sign on your breaker panel stating that you are workingon the electrical. As an added precaution, unplug the oven from the walloutlet. Remove the drawer below the oven chamber to see if the plug isaccessible from there. Otherwise, you may have to pull out the oven a bit tounplug it.2 Be sure that the oven has not been used in a whileand that the elements are completely cool. Remove all of the racks from insidethe oven. If it makes it more comfortable, you can even remove the oven door byopening it and sliding it off of the "arms" that hold it in place.3 Locate the bake element. It resembles a metal tubethat's been bent into a square shape and it is located on the bottom of theoven's interior. It can be quite dark inside the oven, so grab your flashlightand shine it to the rear of the oven's interior to locate where the bakeelement is connected to the oven wall.4 There will be two screws holding the bake element inplace. Remove the two screws and place them somewhere where you will not losethem. Now, pull the bake element out of the oven wall. There will be wiresattached to each "leg" of the bake element. Note: There is usuallynot much wire to work with, so do not pull too hard. Once you have about 4 or 5inches of wire exposed, place a piece of black electrical tape over the wire atthe point where it enters the oven. This will help keep the wire from fallingback inside the hole.5 At the point where the wires are connected to thebake element, you should see a screw. Remove the screws and separate the wiresfrom the bake element. Keep the old element for reference when shopping for anew element that matches the old one exactly.6 Install the new element by connecting one wire toeach leg of the element with the screws, just as they were with the oldelement. Wrap a layer of white fiberglass tape around the terminals. Push thewires back through the holes in the rear of the oven until the bake element isback in position. Use the screws to secure the new element to the oven wall, asbefore.7 Replace the oven door if you removed itearlier. Plug in the oven, then turn the breaker back on. Turn on the oven andtest the new element. You may notice some smoke coming off of the element as itheats up for the first time. This is ok, as these are just oils burning off ofit. The smoke will stop in a few seconds.Thanks.

How many active terminals are there at the main terminal block in the new oven. Is this a single or 2 phase supply. Have you connected the active supply to all active terminals. If only half of the oven is working it sounds like it could be a problem at the terminal block. If so, you need to put a loop or bridge wire to the 2nd active terminal.
If all this was done correctly when connected the only other thing it could be is the electronic clock needs to be set to manual mode for the oven to work correctly.

Without model number assuming burners on top and free standing unit.
The burners working tells you there is 240 volts to the unit. There are three possibilities, the bake element is burnt out, a wire is burnt off, a control part has failed. Bake elements can not be pulled unless the power is disconnected, because very often one side of 240 volts(120v) is wired direct so unplug, do not think having all controls off is enough. You can usually pull the bake element fairly easily by taking out two mounting screws and unplugging two wires. (these can go back on either way to the two terminals, does not matter just be sure tight) Take and have tested at appliance store, usually these test about 20 ohms. If that is good need to service from back and check voltages with a meter to find where problem in circuit is.....
good luck

Also check clock it is not accidentally in time bake setting, should be manual for most cooking (do this first before anything else)

Either the seals need to be replaced, or you may have weak oven door hinges, and the door is not closing properly.
Only solution would be to replace both hinges if this is the case.
Please rate my solution.
Thankyou.

This F-3 is concerning a Open oven temperature sensor (circuit) (over 2700 ohms) or, shorted oven temperature sensor. Could be a result of:
· contamination on terminals
· pinched wire in oven temperature sensor circuit
· cold solder joint on control.

Solution--
· Disconnect power to range and remove oven temperature sensor connector from control.
· Measure oven temperature sensor resistance at oven temperature sensor connector (take care not to damage terminals in block) - Should read 1100 ohms at room temperature (approx 72 degrees F).
· Measure each oven temperature sensor lead from connector block to ground. If shorted, look for pinched or cut wire in oven temperature sensor circuit.
· Check connector terminals - Look for deformed or corrosion on terminals. Repair or replace.
If all above is ok replace control.

I always unplug oven or turn off power make sure though it will bite ya and hard after turning power off if you do it at the breaker turn stove top on make sure it don come on remember its 220volts and it hurts open oven door remove all racks.Then remove the screws mounting element to oven pull gently towards you (you may have to lift the front up a little) pull old element out until you see the spade connector (plug ins with the wires attached) remove these should be two of them be careful not to let wires go back into the cabinet put new element in hook wires back up to wires push back into the hole and put screws in turn power back on and test. this can also be done by taking the back off also and doing the same thing in the oven.hope this helps ya
good luck

I'm afraid you might need a new thermostat. The only other thing you might check is to make sure that your 'vent' is not blocked with a pan or tea kettle etc., but I'm pretty sure it is a thermostat.