Infinity Basslink. I wired and connected everything and sounded amazing. I removed my center console to construct a box to put the Basslink in. When I was putting the Basslink sub into the box (tight fit) I thought to disconnect the battery (just in case), but I did not. At one point the power and ground shorted across the speaker's protective metal cover causing a spark. Once installed I reconnected the RCA inputs, power, grnd, and remote. The power light comes on but no sound from the speaker. I did a visual inspection of the 20ah fuse on the speaker itself and the inline fuse going to my battery; both appear to be good. Have I damaged internal components?

Design: The BassLink brings together a 10" subwoofer (treated paper cone, foam surround), a 10" passive radiator (to increase efficiency and limit distortion), and an extremely efficient, specially designed 200-watt Class D amplifier that work as an integrated system. Special circuitry monitors voice coil position to maintain linearity at high power levels, so you hear loud, clear bass.

Enclosure Type and Materials: The enclosure is made of an acoustically inert polymer which is rigid enough to resist flexing and dampens any resonance.

Servo-Control: The servo-control system continually monitors the performance of the speaker and ensures that the amplifier delivers exactly the right amount of power.

Class D Amplifier: This unit has a built-in 200 watt Class D amplifier which is highly efficient and designed specifically for use with the subwoofer and passive radiator combination.

Auto Turn-On Feature: When the speaker level inputs are used, the system will automatically turn on and off with the radio. Note: The auto turn-on feature does not operate when the preamp level inputs are used, unless the remote turn-on lead is connected.

Low-Pass Crossover: The low-pass crossover frequency can be varied from 50Hz to 120Hz for a seamless transition between the output of this unit and that of the other speakers in the vehicle. The crossover has a slope of 12dB per octave.

Bass Boost: The amplifier includes a continuously adjustable bass boost from -6 to +3dB centered at 40Hz.

Phase Switch: Allows you to select normal or reverse for best bass.

Mounting: You will be able to put BassLink in a variety of in-vehicle locations, thanks to its compact size and mounting feet that enable the rigid polymer box to be mounted vertically or horizontally.

Vertical Mounting Dimensions:
Width: 14.625"
Height: 13.375" (including feet)
Depth: 8.675" (10.076" including feet)
Horizontal Mounting Dimensions:
Width: 14.625"
Height: 9.5" (including feet)
Depth: 12.75" (15.1875" including feet)

BassLink LC Remote Level Control

Overview: The BassLink LC allows you to adjust the volume of BassLink powered subwoofer.

Installation: The BassLink LC may be mounted under the dash or may be dismantled and mounted inside the dash for a factory appearance.

Under-dash Mounting: Select a mounting location that allows easy, safe access to the control while driving. The BassLink LC has mounting "ears" to use as a template for drilling pilot holes. Attach screws through the "ears" to secure the BassLink LC to the mounting surface.
In-dash Mounting: Disassemble the BassLink LC by removing the Phillips-head screws on the front, rear, and top panels. Remove the bottom and side panels and disengage the RJ11 connector from the back panel. Choose a mounting location that allows easy, safe access to the control, and provides 1-3/4" clearance behind the mounting surface. Drill a 9/32" hole in the mounting surface. Feed the BassLink LC's potentiometer (with the knob removed) through the hold and use the nut provided to hold the control in place.
Connecting to BassLink: Route the cable behind the dash or other interior panels and under the carpet. Do not route the cable outside the vehicle. Connect the cable on both ends.

Inputs and Controls

Inputs:

Universal Interface: Front and rear, left and right Universal interface speaker-level inputs (for use with the supplied speaker-level input wiring harnesses)
Line Level RCA Inputs: Front and rear, left and right female preamp level inputs
+BATT (+12V): Gold-plated screw terminal, 0.350" wide
REM (remote turn-on): Gold-plated screw terminal, 0.350" wide
GND (ground): Gold-plated screw terminal, 0.350" wide
Fuse: There is an installed 20 Amp fuse
Remote Gain Control: Phone type jack for included remote gain control

Controls:

Gain Control: Rotary control that sets gain (variable from 250mV to 4V)
Crossover Control: Rotary control that sets the low-pass crossover point (variable from 50 to 120Hz)
Bass Boost Control: Rotary control that sets bass boost level (variable from -6 to +3dB, centered at 40Hz)
Phase Switch: Selects normal or reverse phase (0 or 180 degrees)
Power LED: The power LED glows red when the BassLink is on
Servo LED: The Servo LED glows green when the servo circuit has determined that the woofer has reached maximum excursion and power to the woofer has been modified to provide maximum performance. The LED should light momentarily during high-level bass transients. Note: Avoid adjustments that cause the LED to remain lit for an extended period of time


Thanks

Run the ground back to the battery. The body is not a good enough conductor.

check that fusse under the hood if its blown pull it out and replace it wont hurt anything if u pull it out an put it back in if the cars off.but if ur getting power lights on the amps then more then likely ur fuse isnt blown.id start by checking the audio cables are produceing sound.if u need more help let me know [email protected]

check to make sure your remote wire is hooked up to your amp turn on that runs straight out of the stereo not your power antenna also make sur you have a clean ground(no paint or rust) and also check your connections make sure you have a strong connection to all wire hook ups.......you should check to see that your remote wire has no tears in it or small rips or cuts because that can interrupt your current to and from the amp and radio

that remote wire has to be hooked up to the power or the radio power antenna wire which will switch the remote wire on when the radio is turned on, so that remote wire really should be hooked to the radio wire that gets power when the radio is turned on , thats why the sub is not turning on

electech

Both issues sound like they are related to a non-connected or loosely connected remote wire on the Basslink.

If you're using RCA preamp wires to connect your stereo to the Basslink, make sure the remote wire input on the Basslink is solidly connected to the stereo's remote output.

If you're using the speaker level inputs on the Basslink and not the RCA preamps, make sure the remote input is not connected, as the Basslink will automatically turn on when it senses the speaker level inputs are active.

You need a thicker guage Ground wire... I had the same issue.

check all your power fuses and insure you havec power where it is supose to be. maybe you have blown a fuse.

Do you have speaker wiring or RCA's hooked up from AMP to Basslink? Also check the settings, make sure you are have bridged the channels on amp.

You may have blown the fuse in the AMP. Check it and let me know.