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There is not a lot I can add to this query. If I try to use the main speaker out puts or the bridhe out put there are popping and rumbling noises from the speakers. The monitor out puts are not effected at all and are useable. The amp is at least 13 years old and we only use it for practice although the local village players use it for plays and panto now and again. Maybe it's bin time!There is not a lot I can add to this query. If I try to use the main speaker out puts or the bridhe out put there are popping and rumbling noises from the speakers. The monitor out puts are not effected at all and are useable. The amp is at least 13 years old and we only use it for practice although the local village players use it for plays and panto now and again. Maybe it's bin time!
I have the same problem on the main pre-amp channel only. I get a clean signal through to the Effects Board where it picks up the cracking noise. The main power amp is ok. You can bypass the main preamp section and use an external preamp plugged into the jack socket on the front panel. Unfortunately I can’t find a schematic for the Effects Board.I have the same problem on the main pre-amp channel only. I get a clean signal through to the Effects Board where it picks up the cracking noise. The main power amp is ok. You can bypass the main preamp section and use an external preamp plugged into the jack socket on the front panel. Unfortunately I can’t find a schematic for the Effects Board.
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simple !! most peavey mixers have a monitor output !! you can use that to feed new amp , and theres your volume too !!! or if your already using the monitor output , you can buy a split cable (1 in 2 outs) for main send !! this cable would have to be kept short or it will induce HUMMM !! and in real extreme cases if your using a low Z send (cant think as to why ) a device known as a (direct box) normally used by instrument sends can be used in reverse to "tap" into a low Z send and output with a unbalanced send for an amp to your other room , but hey why not just add a speaker with a volume control to it for this smaller room ? and forgo the new amp
Insufficient information ! Were you using a special cable used for bridged mode or used regular cables and just changed the slide switch to bridged mode? IF you had regular cables for A/B and just had the switch to the bridged mode NO DAMAGE WOULD RESULT. The bridged mode switch really only sets both amps to be driven from the same mixing buss as monaural. If you had a bridged cable and a plain one you would have overloaded one side amp. The amps have an "electronic" over current fuse and if you trip it you have to leave the power off for a minute or so and then re-power the amp. There is a HAZARD that I have written a tip in Fixya about PMP mixers. The sleeve of a 1/4 inch plug connected to side A is the HOT signal out of the amp as opposed to the B channel being the tip of the 1/4 inch plug...this assumes you might be using Speakon to 1/4 inch speaker cables. DO NOT under any circumstances use Speakon to 1/4 inch adapter cables as the barrel of the adapter female part on channel A is HOT to ground and you will pop the A amp.!!!! I am afraid that if you were using regular cables taht another failure occurred not related to the setting to bridged mode. The speaker leads for bridged mode are configured by the way the special bridged mode Speakon cable is wired... The slide switch only configures where the amps get there audio be it stereo busses or singly from one side. If after being off for a few minutes the amp still is totally dead, check the main power fuse which is alongside the power input connection in a plastic boat you pull out. IF THE FUSE IS BLOWN do NOT replace it as it will likely cause additional damage. Have unit repaired. There is a weak spot in these that results in arcing between layers of a multi-layer circuit board.
Bridge mode you use chan B (left connector on the back) using a SPECIALLY wired Speakon. The impedance of a speaker connected as such CANNOT be LESS than 8 ohms.
In the Main/Mon mode, the two amplifiers are separated in function. The monitor knobs for EACH channel input control the mix sent to Channel A which is for the monitor speakers. The Mon1 controls the level sent to Output A for the monitor speakers. Mon2 fader is NOT used.
The individual channel faders control the main mix and the Main fader controls the level sent to Output B which goes to the main speakers.
Yes, in bridge mode you will wire ONE Speakon that will have the two speaker wires connected to pins "1+" and "2+". You do NOT need the manual to do this, the info is right on the back of the PMP6000 itself. You will plug that Speakon into channel "B".
PLEASE note that you CANNOT go below 8 ohm speaker impedance. If your speakers are 4 ohm you MUST connect two in SERIES which requires special cables and the speakers MUST be identical. You can connect TWO 16 ohm speakers in parallel by daisy chaining, however 16 ohm speakers are NOT very common. With 8 ohm speakers you can connect EXACTLY one in bridged mode UNLESS you connect four of them in series-parallel which requires special cables and great care. Believe me you do NOT want to have an accident with this amp as repairing is extensive.
Lastly, put the speaker configuration switch down to the bridged mode.
This is how bridged mode works: Sliding the switch down basically configures the two power amps in monaural and one amp is inverted so there outputs are out of phase by 180 degrees effectively doubling the voltage.
Remember that BOTH wires in bridged mode are HOT and grounding one while amp is on will likely blow out one side or more.
I don't believe there is a mute function on the XR684F unit. There is a mute on the XR8600 but they probably use different boards in it. The mute button for the XR8300 and XR8600 are near the effects selector button and LIKELY is board mounted and would not have a J111 connector. If the electrical function is in the XR684, it MAY just be pads like test points, to only be used during testing and troubleshooting.
I would probably put some shrink fit tubing over the springs... Another thing I have seen done is to stuff the insides of the springs with felt material to dampen noise.
The noise MIGHT also be worsened right at the loop ends of the springs. Put a tiny bit of lube where the spring loop attaches. Use a light silicone grease like "plumbers grease".
Probably one of the two amplifiers in it had a failure. It is probably economically repairable by a COMPETENT technician. I would expect several transistors have failed probably $30 if parts maximum.
I would NOT suggest using it with the failure as further damage or even a slight fire hazard might exist.
Bad or intermittent speaker cables are common cause of this type failure. Overdriving or even a bad speaker can also cause it.
There is not a lot I can add to this query. If I try to use the main speaker out puts or the bridhe out put there are popping and rumbling noises from the speakers. The monitor out puts are not effected at all and are useable. The amp is at least 13 years old and we only use it for practice although the local village players use it for plays and panto now and again. Maybe it's bin time!
I have the same problem on the main pre-amp channel only. I get a clean signal through to the Effects Board where it picks up the cracking noise. The main power amp is ok. You can bypass the main preamp section and use an external preamp plugged into the jack socket on the front panel. Unfortunately I can’t find a schematic for the Effects Board.
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