SOURCE: Kenmore Electric Dryer 68731
If still heating, clean out vent and check for kinks. Also, REMOVE PLUG FIRST!! Remove back and remove four screw holding filter duct assembly at bottom left. Pull duct toward rear and reach into bottom of duct and remove lint. Also, wash out filter screen.
SOURCE: kenmore dryer 400series electric not gettin hot enough to dry
you might have a open heating element. ohm out your heating elements.
SOURCE: Kenmore 70 Series Dryer Model# 110.64742400
check the thermal fuse if it is blown also change the high limit thermal cut-off fuse www.repairclinic.com shows your parts. go there and enter model number. Also check the heat element. to get into it remove the lint filter and the two screws you'll see there then pry the top up at the front corners. And through the back you should find the heat element and blower housing and thermal fuse and high limit fuse and cycling thermostat.
SOURCE: kenmore electric dryer
If it won't shut off, would suspect the timer motor has failed, such that it cannot turn itself to the off position; I assume it will turn off when twisting the dial manually.
SOURCE: Kenmore electric dryer. No hot air. Drum spins
If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat
First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.
If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.
NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.
The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.
If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.
All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.
If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.
Replacement parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.
The heating circuitry is usually located under the "Bulkhead Parts" section.
If you have any questions, or require additional assistance, please post back with your complete model number (usually located on a nameplate around the door opening) so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope you find this helpful.
Hi,
Here
is a tip that I wrote about dryers and noises...
It will help
you determine what is happening there...
Dryer
Repair Squeaks,
Grinding, Clicking and Knocking Noise
heatman101
Asker's
Testimonial "That answer was very informative - thank you for
taking the time to educate me. " - teresa241964
Hi,
If you are having problems with your
gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor
goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working
properly.
if
you dryer is gas check out this gas
no heat
tip....
If you have an electric dryer, you can
have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to
heat.
check
out this electric
no heat
tip...
heatman101
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