GE oven, F2 message but fault is with broiler element staying on?

replace element

Ovens often use broiler element to preheat, then shut off when set temp is reached. Check fuses for and bake element itself.

Hi.

If the element does not turn off, possible faults are:

Shorted temperature probe.
Test temperature probe reading impedance. If impedance is zero or lower than 0.500 Ohms, the the probe is shorted. A good probe reads about 1KOhms.

Contact at element. A contact in element wiring harness may cause the element to stay on. Do continuity test between ground and element and on wiring harness.

Defective control module.
If problem is none of the above, then it is the oven electronic control(ERC). The ERC can be tested reading voltages.

Testing must be done by a trained technician.

Hello,

The way power typically is supplied to the bake/broil elements is that directly off the terminal block 120volts ac is supplied directly to the elements at all times and when the touch pad is pushed a relay on the clock/eoc (electronic oven control) will close and supply 120vac so the element has 240vac to heat. you should be able to see the wire coming directly off the terminal block where the cord from the house wireing connects to,going directly to the elements and as stated above theother 120 vac from the relay to the elements (their is 2 relays,one for bake and one for broil)

As far as testing the oven sensor(temp probe) at room temp the ohms reading should be 1060-1100 ohms and as the tempature rise the ohms rise so to test it verify is 1060-1100 at room temp then heating it usinga blow dryer,match or cigarette lighter and the ohms should rise as it gets hotter and drop when its cooling

Good luck,i hope this helps and if it does help please give me 4 thumbs up

Gene

The most common probem is burned wires going to the heater on the top of the oven cavity. Typically you will see the coating on the wire close to the heater all cracked and bare. You can usually just cut the wire back an inch and pull some slack up and reconnect the wire and you will be good. In some cases the wire will be burned to much and the whole wire will need to be changed. Any oven repair shop will sell you these high temp wires. DO NOT use regular wires they MUST be high temp rated.

Here is some other things to check if the heater wires look good.

COMPONENTS
IR Element
The IR element - a dual coil type heater - is located
in the bottom of the oven cavity. The first coil is the
heating coil. The second is the IR thermocouple
wire. The heating coil outputs 3000 watts at 208
VAC. The heating coil's resistance is 14.4 ohms at
room temperature.
The thermocouple coil is a Type K thermocouple
with a resistance of approximately 20 ohms at the
splices located approximately 6 inches from the
heater and 40 ohms measured at the extension wires
at the I/O control board.
The IR element is controlled via the K5 solid state
relay and the IR thermocouple via the I/O control
board.

Also try this

1. Verify the high-limit thermostat is not tripped.
o If high-limit is tripped, reset and allow the oven to warm up.
o If high-limit is not tripped, follow the instructions below.
High-limit thermostat is not tripped.
Place a small water load in a microwave/heat-resistant container
(approx. 275 ml) in the oven and place the oven in TEST MODE. Press
the MGTRON key to actuate the microwave. While holding down the
MGTRON key, watch the CC and IR temperatures. If either temperature
bounces substantially, there may be a noise (EMI) problem.
To correct this problem, examine the wire routing for each
thermocouple wire. If the wires are routed near any high voltage
components such as the magnetron or high voltage transformers, reroute
the wires. If this does not correct the problem, verify that both
magnetrons are securely mounted.

Good Luck

The f2 code means that the oven temp sencer needs to be replaced.

http://www.applianceaid.com/nuker.html
click the link  Oven temp sensors sense the temperature is the oven cavity and the temp sensor changes resistance, this change in ohm resistance tells the oven control what temperature the oven cavity at and tells the control to shut off the element or turn it back on. The most common temp sensors used today ( *not all ) are approx 1000-1100 ohm resistance at room temperature ( 70�F )
Some ohm readings and there temperature:
Degrees F    -   Resistance
            100 - 1143 ohms
             200 - 1350 ohms
             300 - 1553 ohms
             350 - 1654 ohms
             400 - 1753 ohms
            500 - 1949 ohms


click this link
http://www.applianceaid.com/elecrange.html

F3 is Open oven temperature sensor circuit.
F4 Shorted oven temperature sensor circuit .
F7 Component failure.

To fix this you need to read oven temperature sensor circuit at oven temperature sensor ( approx 1000 ohms at room temp); check for cut or pinched wire or loss of contact, if wirings are ok, then replace the probe.

The F2 is the code for the board seeing a temp higher than 600 degrees. It could be one of two things. The temp sensor is out of range, extreme high resistance. If you ohm it out it should read approx 1100 ohms at room temp. The other would be a welded bake relay on the board itself. Check the temp sensor first. If you are getting the F2 in the cleaning cycle, check the temp sensor, welded clean cycle contacts on the board or both contacts on the lock switch are closed at the same time. This is for the model posted JGBP90.

jaz3133, it's probably the temp sensor that has gone bad. You should be able to get it from the front. It's the probe that comes out from the back wall of the oven. You can have someone ohm it out. Should read approx 1100 ohms at room temp. Part number for the temp sensor is WB20K5040. Make sure power is off befor removing the sensor. Catriver..post back.