How to test a dlb remote relay on a stove - Whirlpool RBS275PD Electric Single Oven

http://www.uncleharrywizard.com/nephewclub/wizardrange/dacor/dacor-technical-manual--.pdf

In my case the problem was the solder around the pins of the DLB relay heated up and melted away from the pin. I found this info on another post. I put more solder on and built it up to the top of the pin to provide more metal there.

Update 8/27/2016
I've found other similar problems, e.g. on a Bosch dishwasher. The symptom is solder is vaporized on relay pins. One poster said if the relay contacts wear and increase their resistance this will cause the pins on the circuit board to overheat and vaporize the solder. So if this is the case just adding more solder may only add additional time. The true fix would be to replace the relay to solve the overheating problem. Nevertheless it's been four years since I added solder and it's still working fine.

I also had a problem like this with my Craftsman garage door opener. It was flaky- it would sometimes just blink and then stop (and it wasn't the obstruction sensor). When I took out the circuit board I found a poor solder joint. Some posters also said the pins on the circuit board connectors could fatigue and stop making good contact (in this case you have to bend them to make good contact again). Likewise the wall button/IR motion sensor started acting up and I found resoldering some pins fixed it. So loose solder or connector issues might be common.

Usually the problem is the heating element. This is easy to check and usually inexpensive. There is a video at http://appliancehelponline.com/ovenelementvideo.html that will walk you thru testing and replacing. It may be a different model but the testing and replacement will be the same. You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model. All parts come with installation instructions. Not all models are available.
If the element checks good it probally blew the relay on the main control board you will know this if you have no power to the element.

Jump online & get the schematics for your oven.. You'll need to troubleshoot the bake circuit, which is comprised of 2 - 120VAC legs (240VAC is applied during bake). One 120VAC leg is from the DLB relay and the other is from the Bake relay. if either one is bad, or not energizing, you won't get any power to the bake element. (The bake element runs 100% of the time during the bake cycle. broiler only operates 25% of the time during bake) I have had luck re-soldering the relay leg nodes on the backside of the relay board, as they develop "opens" over time. The relays are designed for ridiculous ##s of cycles, so they're not *usually* bad.

check all the wiring at the main bus, and at the board connections could be a bad board

You probably have a burnt out element.

in repairing Kenmores there is a relay well 2 small black an square in the head unit of stove one for stove the other is for oven anyway they go out alot a setback to the kenmore digital controls take upper panel off where controls are look at the green board an you can see them some green some red or blue to tell if one is bad be careful an turn the stove on u will hear the relay click then try oven if you do not hear a click its bad do not i repeat do not touch it while its on

Buy a new one