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If it has a battery op movement you could have a non original batt op movt installed for 15 bucks and it will work like new but if it is a mechanical movement then you will have to replace necessary damaged parts
If the switch is easy to access, you could simply replace it -- but finding the switch may be nearly impossible, because of the type of unit you are talking about. Also, some of these oil gel heaters have the electronics encased in a non-acessable area, meaning if one component goes bad, the unit is basically done. Your best bet to find the switch is to start with the manufactures website. if there are no diagrams or repair manuals, you should be able to find some contact information about repairs
OP means that the lid does not close. Usually you need to replace the lid lock. Here the part.
The lid switch and wiring should be tested before replacing the switch. Pages 31 and 32 in this service manual show how to test the switch.Make sure power is disconnected before carrying maintenance.
Most likely the fan speed pull chain switch. It can be found at home depot for about $5. Buy the new switch before you remove the old switch. Then remove and replace one wire at a time, they will be labeled L-1-2-3
This is a common problem on this washer. (The OP fault code). It is caused by a faulty magnetic reed switch. Apparently, the lid on these washers isn't completely watertight and allows water/moisture to get into the switch and corrode the wires and connections.
The switch is on the left side under the rubber bumper, Release two spring clips in the front between main top and front panel using a putty knife. Lift the top. To access and see if the magnet is in place, remove the dispenser from lid. Gently pry the bottom of the plastic inner lid toward you and down. This will let you see if the magnet is in place on the right front corner of the inner lid. Here is a picture of a bad door lock switch:
I could bet 99.9% with out seeing the truck my self that your probelem is the PMD I have two of these trucks and know many people that also have them and the vast majority of problems with the Chevy 6.5L diesels are from the PMD. A must when replacing the PMD is moving it from its place on the injection pump on the top of the engine to a place that dosent get so hot. A good place is the front bumper or skidplace, search for Heath Diesel they have a kit to move it. Its worth every penny.
the door inside panel is screwed on in 3 or 4 places. look on the underside of the panel for a screw or two, and look for a screw cover underneath where the inner door handle is. pop the window switch assembly out of the door gently and unplug the wiring harness from it. it is possible to repair the window winder assembly inside the door, but its too hard a process for me to explain. if u can get the door panel off, but cant figgure out how to repair the winder assembly, then buy a new window winder assembly for around $120, to replace and not repair is the standard practice anyway, cause the winders are a pain to repair, and the repair is usually only temporary, they are technically non repairable, the repair is more like a mcguyver move.
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