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Http://www.southbendnc.com/downloads/manuals/500SeriesManual_1188716.pdf
try this web site for operations manual.
Sounds as if the thermocouple may be bad. It is enough to keep pilot lite but not enough to open safety valve. Some of their ovens have a "Mercury Switch" instead of a thermocouple. Look behind the kick plate. It will have a white ceramic base and have 2 wires going to it. The end sits in the pilot same as thermocouple. If there is a pilot valve, make sure that once the pilot is lit, you turn it to "on" if the position is available. Lots of options on these ovens as they custom build alot for certain companys. Check this out and let me know.
Sounds as if the thermocouple may be bad. It is enough to keep pilot lite but not enough to open safety valve. Some of their ovens have a "Mercury Switch" instead of a thermocouple. Look behind the kick plate. It will have a white ceramic base and have 2 wires going to it. The end sits in the pilot same as thermocouple. If there is a pilot valve, make sure that once the pilot is lit, you turn it to "on" if the position is available. Lots of options on these ovens as they custom build alot for certain companys. Check this out and let me know.http://www.southbendnc.com/downloads/manuals/500SeriesManual_1188716.pdf
try this web site for operations manual.
Sounds as if the thermocouple may be bad. It is enough to keep pilot lite but not enough to open safety valve. Some of their ovens have a "Mercury Switch" instead of a thermocouple. Look behind the kick plate. It will have a white ceramic base and have 2 wires going to it. The end sits in the pilot same as thermocouple. If there is a pilot valve, make sure that once the pilot is lit, you turn it to "on" if the position is available. Lots of options on these ovens as they custom build alot for certain companys. Check this out and let me know.
Sounds as if the thermocouple may be bad. It is enough to keep pilot lite but not enough to open safety valve. Some of their ovens have a "Mercury Switch" instead of a thermocouple. Look behind the kick plate. It will have a white ceramic base and have 2 wires going to it. The end sits in the pilot same as thermocouple. If there is a pilot valve, make sure that once the pilot is lit, you turn it to "on" if the position is available. Lots of options on these ovens as they custom build alot for certain companys. Check this out and let me know.http://www.southbendnc.com/downloads/manuals/500SeriesManual_1188716.pdf
try this web site for operations manual.
Sounds as if the thermocouple may be bad. It is enough to keep pilot lite but not enough to open safety valve. Some of their ovens have a "Mercury Switch" instead of a thermocouple. Look behind the kick plate. It will have a white ceramic base and have 2 wires going to it. The end sits in the pilot same as thermocouple. If there is a pilot valve, make sure that once the pilot is lit, you turn it to "on" if the position is available. Lots of options on these ovens as they custom build alot for certain companys. Check this out and let me know.
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you cannot light the pilot on that oven manually. that oven is eletronic ignition. take off the panel under the doors, turn on the oven, and turn the thermostat to 350. if you see sparking on both the right and left burners, you and it doesnt light, you need to see if the gas solenoid on the right side of the burner is getting power. if it is and nothing lit relace it. if it is not, replace the ignition board
Most gas ovens that aren't electronic ignition usually have a pilot light.
Usually one in the oven area and one for each burner. (Sometimes shared between two burners.)
These pilot lights must lit at all times...otherwise it won't light up and you'll smell gas.
Usually the pilot light is in the very back of the oven and can be seen with the broiler drawer opened.
There is a small set screw located at the pilot light assembly in the oven and also at every burner.
This allows you to adjust pilot light up or down, thereby letting you set pilot light flame to a level that doesn't get blown out by a draft...or you can turn it off completely.
If you use that set screw to turn off the pilot light gas, you'd need to strike a match to light the oven or burners everytime you needed them.
Most likely culprit is the igniter.
When you turn the oven on it opens a gas valve allowing a small amount of gas to flow thru the pilot light. The igniter then lights the pilot and when the sensor determines the pilot is lit it opens th emain gas valve and the oven lights. If the igniter fails and doesn't light the pilot the sensor doesn't heat up and it shuts down the pilot and nothing works.
The igniter is usually accessable under the oven by removing the drawer. It has a single wire attached and looks like a short cigarette made of ceramic witha metal tip.
You didn't provide model number so I can't give you part number but if you look it up here you may be able to get one from Sears http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?sid=PSHx20080114x00001
Access
the burners inside your oven by removing the access panel in the front
of the oven or by opening the broiling drawer, depending on your
particular model.
Determine
if the pilot itself is lit, since some ovens have a small flame on the
pilot at all times that then grows and extends to the burner when the
oven is turned on. The lack of a pilot flame indicates the oven
thermostat is malfunctioning or there is a problem with the gas hose.
Check the pilot itself to see if it is clogged with debris or grease
that could be preventing the flame from staying lit.
Determine
if the pilot flame will grow if it is lit by turning on the thermostat.
If the pilot flame doesn't extend, the thermostat itself likely needs
replacement. If the flame is extending but the gas valve is not
opening, the safety valve could be dirty or defective. The flame should
be blue in color. A yellow flame indicates the pilot is dirty and is
not burning hot enough to get the main burner to ignite.
Light
the burner on the top of the oven with a match if the igniter doesn't
appear to be effective. If it lights manually but will not light
automatically, the igniter is likely faulty. Do not do this if there is
a heavy smell of gas in the kitchen, since there could be a risk of a
fire. In that circumstance, turn the oven off, ventilate the room and
call a technician.
Listen
for any sounds of gas hissing or a clicking sound indicating the oven
is trying to turn on. If there is no response from the oven at all, the
gas may not be functioning properly and will need to be examined by a
technician for safety purposes
On standing pilot ovens the maker uses a safety device to kill the gas in case the pilot blows out. As long as the pilot is lit the gas safety magnet hold the gas flap open inside the safety valve.To save energy the pilot has 2 flames. The standby pilot keeps the cooper/nickel probe/sensor warm so the oven will light faster, the 2nd pilot is much larger, only appears when the oven control is turned on and this is what opens that valve. So when you turn the oven knob on the gas leaves the control and goes downtown to burner land. If that pilot is lit and that slow opening flap inside that valve is open, then the gas will enter the burner tube and ignite when it hits the pilot. Pretty slick ain't it? So what can go wrong? With age the flap inside the safety valve will wear out, get weak, work a little, then take forever to light and eventually just goes bye bye. When you get ready to replace the valve it ain't gonna be adjusted exactamundo, you gotta tweak it. To do so after bubble testing for leaks and lighting the pilot you turn it on and observe the flames. It needs to be not more than half way up the flame spreader. If it is to small of a flame it will take forever to bake even a pie shell, if it is too much their could be burned bottom and in some cases fire hazards. OOPs.
Get the oven checked out by a professional, if you have a gas leak you can easily blow up the entire house and you with it. I think you have a faulty gas valve based on what you wrote
Usually delayed lighting on a standing pilot system is caused by a gas pathway that is dirty from spilled food or grease. If you can remove the burner assembly and clean it that will correct the problem. If there is a removable plate above it then you can remove that and get access instead of removing it. Pilot ignitions work by creating a column of gas between the pilot and the burner that is established when the burner is turned on kind of like a fuse. A small tube my be used to establish the column of gas between burner and pilot and it may get blocked with food that overflows. Sometimes the pilot is just located right next to the burner and may get partially blocked or the orifice in the burner next to the pilot may be blocked. Cleaning all this helps. Be very careful with gas. Work in a well ventilated area. Turn on gas very briefly to run an ignition test. Turn off the gas and vent it off if it fails to light in about 5 seconds. Unburned propane drops to the floor and collects. Natural gas rises. Be aware of this when you ventilate.
hi
Clogged burners are a very common problem with gas ranges because foods spilled on the burners block the gas ports and prevent ignition. On some gas ranges you can remove the top ring of the burner to expose the ports. Here's how to clean a burner: Step 1: Turn off the power supply, both gas and electric, to the range. Then remove the burner. Step 2: Soak the burner in a solution of mild household detergent and water. Clean it with a soft cloth. Step 3: Clear the gas ports with a pin or needle, rinse the burner, and let it dry. Caution: Do not use a toothpick or matchstick to clean the gas ports. If the tip of the wood gets stuck in the burner ports, it could cause a serious blockage. Step 4: When the burner is completely dry, replace it, and turn on the power and the gas supply.
thank u.................
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