New Whirpool Cabrio dryer won't start

Hi wildspiritmo...

Go to the following webpage and see pictures and discription of how to change you 3 wire dryer into a 4 wire dryer.
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http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/switch-outlet/dryer-circuit-wiring-and-hookup.php

Hi kptk...
Go to this webpage and it will have pictures to show you where your wires go...
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Hunter

http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/switch-outlet/dryer-circuit-wiring-and-hookup.php

Go to this website, they have color coded pictures to show you how to hook up 3/4 wire hook ups for dryers.
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http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/switch-outlet/dryer-circuit-wiring-and-hookup.php

Under the new Codes...all dryers (and stoves/ovens) must now be 4 wire....having a seperate neutral and ground wire in NEW construction. In decades past, the neutral was allowed to serve as both - the neutral and ground - typically by means of a solid metal strap or wire strap that bonded that connection to the metal frame of the dryer. This sounds as if it is the case in your existing dryer...which was typical.

But...the old arrangement wasn't always reliable...and a seperate dedicated ground provides a greater safety path in the event of a fault inside the dryer (lowering the chance the user may get a shock when touching the frame of the dryer).

To modify your existing 3 prong dryer over to 4....you'll need to remove the 3 wire - disconnect the ground strap (or wire) that bonds the neutral to the frame of the dryer...and install your 4 wire so that you'll have (from left to right) one hot, one neutral, one hot connection...and connect the ground directly to he frame of the dryer (there is usually a green screw near the dryer connection block for this ground)

For more on this - with an illustration, see:

http://www.american-appliance.com/service_pages/electric_dryer_cord.htm

When done properly, you can test for correct wiring and connection with an ohm-meter (continuity check)...by checking for continuity from the ground prong on the plug to the frame of the dryer...you should see continuity. Then check for continuity from the neutral prong on the plug to the frame...you should NOT see continuity....nor should you see any continuity between the neutral connection at the wiring block to the metal frame.

The whole purpose of the Code change to the 4 wire is to seperate the two.

Hope this helps,....if you need more details, please follow-up.

Based on your description....you have a Code compliant dryer (with it's 4 wire cord and plug)....and have moved into an older home that is not Code compliant (with it's 3 prong receptacle outlet)....and this is fairly common.

At this point - you have two choices....replace the wiring from the dryer's breaker to the receptacle with all new 8/3 with ground romex (it more then likely only has 8/2 with ground now)....and replace the receptacle with a 4 prong grounding receptacle to match your dryer's cord....OR - as an alternative - you can replace the cord on your dryer with a 3 prong cord to match the existing dryer receptacle outlet.

Out of the 2 choices....the first one will bring the old wiring in the home up to current Codes (all NEW homes must have this 4 wire/4 prong set-up per Code...but older homes are grand-fathered)...but it is clearly the most involved, time consuming and most costly approach...and it is recommended only an electrician do this work. If this approach is taken....your dryer cord can stay as is...it will now fit the new receptacle outlet with no modifications.

The second approach - is to pick up a 3 wire 3 prong cord at your local hardware store to match the existing 3 prong receptacle.....and replace the 4 wire cord on your dryer with it. Although this is the least desireable - it is an allowed approach because this is an older home with existing wiring. This is a much less involved approach...all you need to buy is the 3 wire dryer cord (they come all ready to go) remove the 4 wire cord and install the 3 wire cord to your electrical connections at the back of the dryer. Hopefully...when the 4 wire cord was installed on your dryer, the ground strap wasn't removed completely (this is a metal strap that will connect the white wire to the metal frame of the dryer)...because now you will need to re-use the ground strap. For more on this....see the images of the differences of the 3 wire and 4 wire dryer hook-up at:
http://www.applianceaid.com/general.html#3to4


NOTE: the only real difference between the 3 wire cord and the 4 wire cord is now the white neutral and the ground are kept seperate in a 4 wire..the green ground will connect directly to the dryer frame....where in a 3 wire there is no seperate ground wire - ground and neutral are one and the same...the ground strap connects the frame to the white neutral. The 4 wire permits a better safety measure...in the event of an electrical problem (ground fault) in the dryer...the fault now has a seperate path to your panel's ground...and less chance of a shock from touching the metal frame of the dryer.



The choice of how to proceed is up to you....if you go with completely updating the dryer wiring from the breaker outward...I recommend an electrician do this work for you (it's about an hour's work...plus materials). Then your exisiting dryer's 4 wire 4 prong cord can stay as is....the electrician will install a 4 prong receptacle made to fit your cord.

If you go with simply replacing the dryer's cord....changing it to a 3 wire so it will fit the receptacle...make sure the ground strap is re-utilized as seen in the images at the site above.(also make sure all work is done with the dryer breaker (or fuse if a really old home) off before starting any work. If you change the cord yourself...make sure to reconnect in exactly the same manner as the previous cord was connected...(make a note on paper or take pictures so that there are no mistakes)..and that you tighten the nuts securely to the posts once the wire lugs are on them. Where you state you do not have a background in electrical work...you can have an electrician change this cord for you...(typically in under a half-hour)....or you can do it yourself - by carefully following the pictures.

The choice is yours...if it was me - I'd change the wiring from the breaker outward...making the older home meet today's current Codes and be complaint for this dryer..and then you wouldn't need to change a thing on the dryer....but you can go either way....Codes allow this grandfathering in older homes with existing wiring.

Hello Doris, You really don't want to get an adpater for this, (even if you could find one - they're not at all common) since the thickness of adding in an adapter would make the dryer stick out further from the wall, etc.

What you need to do is to get a new "pigtail" for the dryer that has the three (3) prong plug that matches your 220 Volt-AC wall outlet. These are available at most Home Depot, Lowes, Sears, or at any appliance or Hardware store. They don't cost all that much and will provide you with the correct plug and cord set for your house's electric dryer outlet.

The four (4) prong cord & plug has a separate ground wire in them, while the standard thre (3) prong plug uses the netural as the ground, or has a separate green wire running from the dryer cabinet to either a grounding screw on the wal plate, or to a ground ******** a water pipe (typically found in older homes)

Just be sure to unplug the dryer before changing the cordset out for the 3 prong one. Make sure the power is also off at the breaker panel too. Now at the rear of the dryer there is a small access panel where the cordset goes into the dryer. Remove that panle and you'll see three (3) connections on the panel along with a Green Grounding connection.

The connectors that get the power are the outside connectors, these are "HOT" and get 120 V-AC each (120 x 2 = 240 Volts AC) while the connector in the middle is the NEUTRAL connection point.

The wiring is straightforward and there should be a simple wiring diagram either on the access panel or the connection points should be labeled for each of the wiring fasteners (screws or nuts)

Just be sure to get the fasteners tight, and the new 3 prong cordset you buy should be long enough to reach from the dryer (when it's pulled away from the wall) to the house outlet. Typically they come in either a 3-4 foot length or the longer ones are 5-6 feet long. If in doubt, get the longer cordset. You can also check the wrapper of the new cordset, as they provide a simple wiring diagram also, to help you install it correctly.

http://z.about.com/d/electrical/1/0/r/0/-/-/DryerElectricalConnection.jpg

Just be sure to add the included strain relief, as instructed, onto the cordset and put the access panel back on when you're done and you'll be all set to use that "new" used dryer!

I hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

check the breaker and make sure youturn it all the way off and all the way on. if you have a volt meter check the voltage from the two outside legs you should have 220volts

They wire in the same except the green wire will go to a ground screw which should be right in the same area with a green color to it. If no ground screw, hook the green together with the white (center) wire. Hope this helps!

red and black wires go to outside screws ..white goes to middle screw..lift green ground wire from screw in cabinet back and either tape off or connect to middle screw on connector ..green wire on cord goes in it's place

If your dryer came with a 4-prong plug, do not change it. For the very reasons you quoted with the article, you may screw up the 110v accessories required of your appliance (like the clock or digital display). It is best to change the household outlet to a 4-prong type. Just make sure your wiring is correct. You will need a neutral on the 4th leg, which means you will probably have to run new wiring from the outlet to the distribution panel.