Maytag 30" Built-In Single Electric Wall Oven - Black Logo

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Anonymous Posted on Dec 14, 2013
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Oven wont heat up

Oven reads 100 degrees and will not heat up except for broil. I removed the element and tested the recipictle it only reads 47 volts

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 145 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 27, 2008

SOURCE: the bake on my oven does not heat up ? what's the problem

Hi and welcome to FixYa.com!

First thing to check is the bake element. Examine it for signs of blisters or cracks. If you have a VOM, check it for continuity. It is likely that your problem is just a open bake element. Very common problem.

Hope this helps you and Happy New Year from the FixYa crew!

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Bill Dickerson

  • 979 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 15, 2009

SOURCE: Maytag oven needs temp calibration

Take your temp knob off and look in the center of the stem and you should find a small set screw. Using a small precision screwdriver, turn the screw until you see the light come on. (You won't have to turn it far.) Turn it a little at a time, maybe a 1/16 of a turn. Leave your thermometer in the oven with the door closed and at or near the temp probe that is in the oven. This way, you are getting a true reading.

Anonymous

  • 2468 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 04, 2010

SOURCE: oven heating really slow

yes it sounds as if there is a "HOT-SPOT" on the element which will look like a dis colored spot and will be either bubbled up or have pock marks where its burning thru and can no longer pass sufficient current to heat the element fully

Mack Baxter

  • 383 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 30, 2010

SOURCE: SET DIGITAL THERMOSTAT TO SAY 350 DEGREES WILL NOT

Possibly the ignitor for the main oven burner has failed--

An observation question:

When the Broiler 'lights' and comes on, do you notice the ignitor glowing bright, before the gas valve (to the Broiler) opens, and you get the Broiler lighting---

Now-- for the main burner to come on, -- there has to be a similar bright glow from the MAIN BURNER ignitor, before its main burner gas valve can open-- No Ignitor?-- No ignition, and not Main Oven burner!

Let me know what you need from this point on --

Mack B

Anonymous

  • 321 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 21, 2011

SOURCE: My oven will not warm up. It will just stay at

My dear friend, i suspect the oven thermostat to be responsible for this. It is a switch that opens when the temperature of a oven is set. Therefore it is bad and cannot work according to the temperature it is set to. The thermostat is located at the control panel where a liquid filled temperature sensor bulb which senses and maintains the temperature of the oven by turning it on and off at every cycle.
First You have to test the thermostat before replacing it. Before repairs or testing can begin you must disconnect the electricity at the fuse panel, at the circuit breaker panel, or by pulling the plug. Make sure the power is off before proceeding. A jolt from 220 volts can be fatal, use caution! Since i do not know the exact maytag oven type, here is the general process for all types of oven.

  1. Access the oven thermostat, which is located in different places depending on the make and model: On freestanding ranges, access the thermostat by removing the screws that hold the back panel in place at both ends. On models with front-loading controls, remove the panel and tilt it for access. Be careful not to let the wires disconnect from their components. Some built-in models have a removable back splash. Lift the backsplash, rest it on the cook top and remove the screws from the back splash, which holds the rear panel. On wall ovens or eye-level ranges, access the control panel by opening the door and removing the screws that secure it. The screws may be under the exhaust hood or below the control panel. If the control panel is hinged, simply tilt it towards you. On some models both the rear and front control panels must be removed. The screws may be found on the trim and occasionally the trim must be removed.
  2. When testing the thermostat switch contacts for continuity, refer to the wiring diagram and remove only those wires being tested - and only one pair at a time. Test switch contact terminals as per your wiring diagram. If the switch lacks continuity at any of the contact terminal points then the entire thermostat switch needs to be replaced.
  3. Adjusting the thermostat: Test the oven temperature by placing the tester in the oven's center and leaving it for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. Record the minimum and maximum temperatures of three cycles, then add those figures together, divide the result by six and you have the oven's average temperature. If the average temperature is more than 25 degrees off, try calibrating the thermostat by following your appliance manual instructions for thermostat calibration.
  4. Normally, thermostats are calibrated by pulling the oven's thermostat knob off, turning the knob over and adjusting the calibration ring on the back. If your oven doesn't have a calibration ring you may need to replace the thermostat.
To replace the thermostat of the oven, please follow the steps below:
  1. Disconnect the capillary tube and push it through the back oven wall, being careful not to break the flammable capillary tube wire.
  2. Remove the screws that secure the thermostat to the control panel and gently pull the thermostat out, leaving the wires in place.
  3. To install a new thermostat, reverse the disassembly procedures, transferring the wires individually from the old unit to the new.
Hope this helped you. Thank you for using fixya.

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Frigidaire PLEB30T8CCB Double wall oven - heating to temp, but not maintaining.
Your wiring diagram and parts schematics are here in the link below. Normally the bottom element does glow read hot after a couple of minutes. Broil elements last a lot longer because they aren't used as much. There is only one Control Board. If I was guessing, I would say the temperature sensor is at fault. Elements either work, or they don't, but you can easily test continuity with a meter. Many parts are discontinued.

https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/3f7nkrfnvp-001428/frigidaire-pleb30t8ccb-electric-wall-oven-parts

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Preheat goes to 100 degrees and stays there. All push buttons to 27 in Jenn-air oven work and after 45 minutes unit heats up.Now not heating up at all.
whenever you set an oven it always starts at 100,if that's an electric oven most likely the bake element is bad and the broil element is just working and heating up the oven,when you set the oven to bake both the broil and bake elements get hot.if it's gas most likely a bad ignitor,send the model number if you write back,also if that's an electric oven make sure you flip the breaker so there's no power going to the oven before you try to remove the element,i see people try to remove the element with the power still on and when they pull out the element the wires touch the metal and bang they short out the clock assy.kill the power,remove the two screws that hold the element in place or if this isn't a wall oven slide out the oven,unplug it,remove the back wall and with a meter read out the element,remove at least one of the wires first and then check it,very simple set your meter to 20k,ohms touch the leads to the element where the wires connect to it,if you see a 1 the element is bad or open,if you see anything else but 1 the element is good or closed,hope this helps you out
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the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control.
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the broil element
is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage.

If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms
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Feb 09, 2014 • Thermador SEC301 Electric Single Oven
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I have a Fridgidaire Model # PLEB30S8CCC wall oven. The broiler works fine. The oven is very slow to heat up, 20 minutes to reach 250. I checked the lower element with a omp meter it read 20. Is that...
Hello there and than you for choosing Fixya
If your oven does not heat, does not heat enough or does not broil, a common cause is a burned out heating element. There are two elements, the baking element on the floor of the oven and the broiling element on the ceiling of the oven. They are about the diameter of a pencil and typically supported by metal stand-offs.
This easiest test you can do is to turn on the oven and observe the heating element. If it glows red, the element is working. When baking, the broiling element may come on to assist with preheating or to maintain the oven temperature. When set to bake, if the broiler comes on, but the baking element does not, the likely cause is a burned out baking element.
When set to broil, the broil element should glow red, but the bake element typically is not used. If the broiler does not glow, it is likely a burned out heating element.
There are other possible causes of these symptoms, refer to our diagnostic page for some other possibilities.
To test the heating element using a multimeter, follow the steps provided below.
  1. Unplug the oven or turn off the power at the breaker or fuse box.
  2. Follow the heating element back to where it goes through the wall of the oven. Remove the bracket that secures the element in place.
  3. Unscrew or unfasten any stand-off supports that secure the element to the oven.
  4. Pull the element part way out to expose the oven's wiring connected the element.
  5. Label the wires and secure them in place so they do not fall back into the cavity.
  6. Disconnect the wires from the element.
  7. Using a multimeter set to x1, touch one probe to each of the element contacts. Expect resistance in the range of 20 to 40 ohms. Infinite or kilo-ohm resistance usually indicates a bad element and it should be replaced.
  8. If the element tests okay, reconnect the wires, slip them back into the cavity and resecure the element.
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Jan 26, 2011 • Frigidaire Ovens
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If both baking and broiling element do not heath above a certain temperature instead, then the part to be replaced is the temperature probe, still located inside the oven cavity.


If the part that is not heating is only one element, then you may need to replace the element.
Before replacement the element can be tested removing it from the cavity and reading Ohms at the element terminals, with a multimeter set at Rx1. Disconnect power before removing the element.
In this case, selecting only baking or only broiling (depending on what element is faulty), the oven will work normally.

If the oven is a gas oven, then you have no element. In that case if the oven burners are working, replace the temperature sensor.

If replacing the temperature sensor does not help, then replace the oven electronic control.
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Since the oven has two heating elements, if the oven does not heat up on any condition, and both broiling and baking element are not working, then the most common fault causing the problem is a faulty temperature probe.

The temperature probe is located inside the oven cavity.
On most ovens there is only one temperature sensor, connected in line on the circuit from electronic oven control to baking and broiling element.
When the probe fails, it will affect both baking and broiling function.

The temperature probe is tested reaching the probe, cutting or disconnecting its wiring, and testing the probe at room temperature, with a multimeter set on impedance at Rx1. If the multimeter reads no continuity (circuit open), then the probe must be replaced.

If the temperature probe is good, then parts that may be responsible for the fault are oven electronic control and wiring. Having both elements failing at the same time would be rather unusual.

If only one element is failing, then the fault is probably the element. In that case you can test the element removing it from the cavity, and testing Ohms on the element. If circuit is open , then the element must be replaced.

Regards.
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Mar 03, 2010 • Frigidaire 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding...
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If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms


The bake element
is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off.

Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms

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Oct 05, 2009 • De Dietrich DOP390 Pyrolytic Electric...
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like another person stated-from the front behind the door, take off the 6 screws and the cover by the latch. there is an "oven hi temp limit switch" It is crome with 2 heavy black wires connected to it. On the back side of this is a small red button which will reset the limit switch. I had the same issue (everything worked except the any of the heating elements) and quickly resolved.
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