Whirlpool Duet Dryer GEW9250PW1 Runs but no heat. I have taken it apart twice and checked it. Vent clear, element good, component check, tested and worked twice. On second try I replaced the thermistor tested and it worked. Next day again, no heat. What would cause an intermittent heat problem?
If you checked all the t-stats and they checked good the only two things left is the board and the motor,it takes 240 volts to get heat 120 comes from the board and the other 120 volts comes from the motor,first go to the block where the cord connects to the dryer and make sure you have 240 volts there,but you say you changed the thermister and you had heat?check both thermisters to see if you get the same reading on them both should be around 10k ohms,that could of been coincidental With the resistance value at room temp on the thermistor being good then this would not be a thermistor error. There are 2 components other than the thermostats which would cause the heating element not to work. First is the motor and second the Control board. The best option is to disconnect the power to the unit and access the heating element. Disconnect one wire that is going to the heating element, preferably the one on the thermostat side. Plug the unit back up and using a multimeter you will want to turn the dryer on and test for 120 vac at the terminal on the heater where the wire was disconnected. What this will do is eliminate the heater element itself and the motor. If there is 120 vac at this point then you know the heater is good and the motor is good because the other 120 vac coming through the thermostats is the control board side of the circuit. If there is not 120 vac at that point then you will want to test the other terminal on the heater and check for 120 vac. If there is not 120 vac then the motor would be bad .
SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Dryer - Working but no heat
it sounds like your heating element is gone bad. there is no heat if they burn out or get corroded
SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Dryer is scorching clothes
there is a sensor in the exhaust line in the dryer, near the motor. this tells the heating element to shut off when it gets to a certain temp, either during reg cycle or if the exhaust gets clogged, it is meant as a safety measure, but it sounds like yours is bad so the heating element never shuts off. it is not an expensive part and easy to replace
SOURCE: Whirlpool duet electric wil not heat
Remove 1 wire from the element . Your 220 V comes from ...110 motor , 110 control board . Check which wire is not getting 110 V , trace it and see which it comes from . That will tell you which one is defective .
SOURCE: the dryer works but there is no heat
If the breakers are okay and you have power to the dryer the problem would be one of two issues.
The first and most likely is the thermal cut off. This is a small temperature activated fuse that will trip if the air flow through the heater is poor, this is usually due to a plugged lint filter or restricted vent pipe between the dryer and outside.
The second is the heat element itself has gone bad. You can measure it with an ohmmeter or physically inspect it for breaks. The image I have attached shows both. The T cut off is part 47 and the element is part 14 both visible with the lower panel taken off. The lower panel has 2 screws visible while laying on the floor looking straight at the panel.
The part numbers for the components are 279973 (cut off kit) and 3387747 (heater)
SOURCE: Whirlpool duet electric dryerGEW 9200 L --no heat
Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.
Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:
Heating Element
Thermal Cut-Out
Hi-Limit Thermostat
All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.
If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.
If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.
NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:
Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.
Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.
NOTE: One item I failed to mention - Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block. The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC. The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms. This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord. Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.
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Tested Heating Element, Thermal Cut-Out, Hi-Limit Thermostat, fuse for continuity and tested positive for each. New thermistor. Each of these if defective would be permanent. This machine has gone from heat to no heat at least three times since the problem arose. I can't explain that.
It looks fixed. I think it was power related. It worked when out and no heat when in. I think it was losing power to one 110v source. Reseated 220 cable when pushed back against the wall and it has worked now through five loads. Thanks for input.
good,when you have any problems like this first thing to check is the power source coming to machine,always a nice find and you don't have to get into machine lol,but while you were in there vac out all the lint in the dryer cabinet,shop vac is best,blow off the motor and heating parts,also the duct that the lint filter slides down into,then check the vent line,i use a leaf blower,just stick it into the vent line and blow it out to the outside,after start it and go outside and make sure it's blowing good and not lint got stuck in the flapper when you blew it out.good job and glad you're up and running.
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