Smell coming from top loading washer. Less than 1 year old. Always leave top open after washing. Use Tide unscented liquid detergent and vinegar in wash water. Seldom use fabric softener
All washing machine "smell" when the lid is left closed for more than one day. If it is really bad it might be something inside the body of the machine or something caught under the agitator.
Inside the body work. Unscrew the three screws at the bottom of the front panel. Lift the bottom of the panel forward and up. Remove. Make sure the machine is unplugged and switched off before reaching into the body work. Look for something "smelly"
Agitator - switch off and unplug - depending on the model unscrew the top cap on the agitator. Some models do not have an screw cap although it might look so. Reach with both hands into the machine and grab the agitator at it bottom flanges hands opposite each other. Pull up hard - it does not let go easily- make sure it doesn't have a top screw cap. To replace just push back until it clicks or replace and tighten the top cap.
SOURCE: speed queen
I'm sure you have already bought a new washer BUT......
The repair isn't as hard as you are lead to believe.
First I would check for leakage from the pump.
This is the Most common reason for water under the machine
The pump is a fairly straight forward repair that is a little different on each model of washer, but is usually easy to figure out.
If it is the seal/bearing then that is a more involved repair but not impossible for the average person who is mechanically inclined.
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The front panel must come off, the the top panel, which is held by two screws in the corner. Lift the top back and disconnect the tub inlet hose. Push it out of the way. I wedge it into the top groove.
Pop off the water level switch hose on the back of the tub.
The tub module needs to come out. It is held upright by several springs. The number varies with the year.
A ready made spring hook can be found by removing and using one of the front springs. I use the one in the front to the left. It's the easiest. It's easier to catch the springs if you hold your hook facing up.
Disconnect the motor harness, leaving the capacitor attached to the harness. Pull it through the frame and out of the way.
Dis-connect the drain hose. there will be water in it so be prepared with towels. Place an old towel on the floor. Now lift the tub module up and out, setting it on the towel. This will keep grease. etc off the floor.
The tub top clips on. Gently pull the tabs out and lift two at a time, just until you break the seal, no more, till you have all of them loose.Remove and put aside. Take out the 4 tub bolts. Don't worry if you break them, the new kit comes with new bolts. The tub is usually stuck to the hub. Put a foot inside the tub and stomp down on one side. It will pop loose. Put tub aside after cleaning old gasket from bottom.
SPECIAL TOOL; you with need a 1 1/2" socket of shrt handled wrench to remove the large nut.
Once it is off there is a nylon lock unit in the grooves with the threads that looks like a crown, cut a slice in it and pull it off. There is a new one supplied.
Remove the hub. Sometimes a puller is needed, don't damage the shaft or threads.
Turn module over.
Remove the 6 bolts around the outside of the tub, the motor bolts on some models and the two holding the counter-balance to the tub.
Lift off the transmission assembly as a unit.
The seal kit has the instructions for your particular model.
If the bearing is a separate 3-bolt unit, replace it as well.
Never leave a bearing that has gotten wet from a leaking seal, or you WILL end up doing the job again in a few months because of a $15 bearing that should have been replaced the first time.
Re-assemble the washer in reverse order.
Spray WD-40, or other lube, on the cork gasket between the tub and hub before installing tub.
Don't forget the nylon lock unit.
If the pump looks like it has been leaking At All, Replace it Now.
When installing the springs, do the back ones first. Hold the hook facing down this time. Install the one you used for a tool last and in the front left side.
Let the washer set for an hour before use, or as directed in the seal instructions. The first cycle should be hot water, without a load .
SOURCE: Water leak under the rotating drum
Have you removed the front panel?
If not remove front panel two screws 5/16 on bottom
Start the washer in a cycle. look with a flash lite and look for leak.
It maybe the rubber boot.
Please let me know if you have any other questions.
I will also need model number, because a AWS52NW is a top loader model number not a front loader.
T
SOURCE: 28+ year old- Speed Queen Heavy Duty top loader
It sound like you drain hose is siphoning off the rinse water, It needs a standpipe make sure the drain hose is at about the height of the top of the washer, Make sure the drain hose isnt stuck in the drain it also needs an air cap. the drain hose should not lay on the floor to run to the drain
Please let me know if this doesnt solve your problems
SOURCE: At start of spin cycle water splashes over top and runs down.
Hi, just fixed the daughters speed queen, same problem. The three brake shoes were worn allowing the tub to spin with the agitator.
replaced the shoes, washer fine. At first I thought it was the top ring. spent 30 dollars for nothing.
good luck
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