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Anonymous Posted on Dec 09, 2013

Lights are on coffee grinds water won't drop heating element won't heat

4 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Feb 14, 2008

SOURCE: No longer heats water

See the soltution in:

http://www.fixya.com/support/t197555-no_heating

Good luck

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Anonymous

  • 22 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 31, 2010

SOURCE: A Krups KM7005 coffee maker/grinder doesn't heat or drip water .

Mine had the same problem ... all the lights are on, grinding works fine, but no heat on the plate, and no dripping of water.

After a weekend on the workbench, I mastered this machine. The KM7005 has 2 x MicroTemp G4 thermal cutoff (TCO) fuses which interrupt the Live line, for overheat protection. Mine didn't overheat per se, but the TCO blew anyway. Not reset-able ... need to be replaced with a soldering iron. To date, I have helped 13 people on this site fix this exact problem.

I'll be happy to advise you to fix this, or fix it for you. Write me at [email protected].

Anonymous

  • 22 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 31, 2010

SOURCE: no water

This seems to be a common problem with this rig. So far, I've helped 13 people on this site with exactly the same problem ... all the lights are on, but no heat on the plate and no dripping water.

The KM7000 has 2 x MicroTemp G4 thermal cutoff (TCO) fuses which interrupt the Live line, for overheat protection. Mine didn't overheat per se, but the TCO blew anyway. Not reset-able ... need to be replaced with a soldering iron. I'll be happy to advise you to fix this, or fix it for you. Write me at [email protected]

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Aug 09, 2010

SOURCE: Coffee maker doesn't heat when turned on

Same thing here. Has anyone figured out how to fix this? I hit the "on" button every time I walk through the kitchen and once and a while it will start brewing. I haven't taken the machine apart, but will give it a try since I don't have money to replace a coffee pot right now.

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My coffe maker will not dispense water?

The heating element has gone bad. Since it is not a user-serviceable part, I recommend replacing the coffeemaker.

In the future, make sure you do not add water to the reservoir unless the coffeemaker has been turned of for at least five minutes. This will help prolong the life of the heating element.

The heating element will naturally degrade over time. But, it can incur sudden damage when the reservoir is refilled with water too soon - while the element is still hot. Because of the simple design, if the coffeemaker is on, then both the warming plate's heating element and the reservoir's heating element are on. So, after a brewing cycle is complete, the reservoir's heating element stays on. Without any in the reservoir to keep it cool, the heating element superheats. So, if water is put in the reservoir while the coffeemaker is on or before the element has adequately cooled, the sudden burst of steam from the water contacting the element can be quite violent.
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Element may be damaged and in need of replacement. Return for service.
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Our Mr. Coffee (model JWX27--it's less than 2 yrs old) stopped working out of the blue. The lights all seem to work, and the clock, but it doesn't start the brewing cycle. I've checked the timer/delay...

The heating element has gone bad. Since it is not a user-serviceable part, I recommend replacing the coffeemaker.

In the future, make sure you do not add water to the reservoir unless the coffeemaker has been turned of for at least five minutes. This will help prolong the life of the heating element.

The heating element will naturally degrade over time. But, it can incur sudden damage when the reservoir is refilled with water too soon - while the element is still hot. Because of the simple design, if the coffeemaker is on, then both the warming plate's heating element and the reservoir's heating element are on. So, after a brewing cycle is complete, the reservoir's heating element stays on. Without any in the reservoir to keep it cool, the heating element superheats. So, if water is put in the reservoir while the coffeemaker is on or before the element has adequately cooled, the sudden burst of steam from the water contacting the element can be quite violent.
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Even though the light is on, this does not mean the element that heats the water is working. After you fill the machine with COLD water, and the light has been on for a few minutes, unplug the machine and dump the water out into a bowl. Carefully, feel the water. Is it hot? OR just warm? Or still cold? If it is warm, the element is not heating properly. If it is cold, the element is NOT working. If the water is HOT, then perhaps the tube from the water storage reservoir to the brewing basket is clogged. If that tube is clogged, it needs to be removed from the machine and cleaned out. If the element is not working, or heating the eater hot enough, that element needs replacement. Chances are, the replacement cost/cost of repair would be more then a new coffee maker.
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Check to see if your heating plate gets hot when it is on, if it doesn't your water heater/heating pklate has failed.
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I accidentally ran a cycle without putting any water in the reservoir. Now the water will not heat up or flow through the filter. Did I kill it and if I did, is it cost effective to have it fixed?

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This can be caused from three different failures; the heating element itself, the bimetal thermal switch that controls the heating element or a thermal fuse that has opened with (or without) reason.
Check the bottom plate on which the pot sits after the machine has been on for several minutes to see if it has heated at all. If not, then the thermal fuse or the element has failed.
The former part is customarily welded to one end of the heating element and cannot safely be replaced by itself.
The thermal switch that causes the cycling of the element is clamped to the element but also is welded to its connecting points.
The entire assembly generally will need to be replaced.
The exact location of the failure can be found using the most primitive multimeter and a few minutes time. If you wish to DIY, answer back and I will guide you.
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Remove the bottom of the unit (5 screws), unclamp the thermal fuse tubes, slide the tubes to one side and check the each fuse with an ohmmeter. If one of them is open, that's your problem.
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