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Anonymous Posted on Dec 02, 2013

Film advance indicator not reflected on lcd - Canon T70 35mm SLR Camera

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Wht is my film transport signal not visable on Minolta Dynax 404si?

If it will not work on any roll of film and you are sure the film leader loaded correctly and the film advances properly then the spring on the indicator or the indicator itself is defective. Only option is to try and open it yourself if you're daring or send it in for repair.
2helpful
1answer

Just recieived a used Nikon N80 and it gives the message of open door.Frame counter and film indicator flashes when door is shut and no film is in in camera?

Confirm tht DX shows in LCD. If not then press and hold shift button then press ISO so "DX" appears.Open Camera Back. Insert film cartridge, pull film leader out to right and align with red index mark (inside film chamber on right). Make sure there is no slack in leader.Close camera back until lock release snaps closed. Fully depress shutter until film advances to first frame.
Confirm " 1" and film transport show in LCD. If Film is not loaded correctly, "ERR" show on LCD. Open cack and reload film.
Users manual can be downloaded from:
http://www.lensinc.net/manuals/Nikon_N6006L.pdf
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When taking a picture the film does not advance. It must be shut off and turned back on again. After developing those pictures, the top half of the picture is black indicating that the film is not...

if the film drive cogs are all ok then its the film advance drive gears on the motor drive striped or slipping,,you could test this by opening the camera and genteelly holding the film advance cogs with your finger and pressing the shutter if the film advance cogs stop turning then the drive gears are slipping or striped? this could be caused by the after load censer in the camera not censing the end of film roll and trying to get another frame out of it? like it read a 24ex as a 36ex but the censor faled to stop the motor drive winding on and that striped the gears
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OVerlapping frames

This is due to a poorly manufactured and designed camera: it IS a Holga, after all...

What's happening is that the film advance is allowing the film backing paper (which has the numbers printed on) to slip relative to the film. All you can do is to learn when to compensate by advancing the film a little more than the numbers indicate.

Given that most Holgas are only designed to last for around ten to twelve rolls of film (they can last far longer though), you might not have to put up with the fault for much longer.
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How do i rewind the film in my nikon n2020

Set the film advance mode selector to L.

While sliding film rewind lever, push film rewind button.

Fold out film rewind crank and rotate until film advance indicator stops moving.

If you don't have a manual, you can download one from http://www.butkus.org/chinon/nikon.htm
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My Mamiya RB67 triggers and shutter lease lever works but film advance lever doesn't move. Trigger button fired several times but film advance still showing 1.

This is not the best solution as it indicates a faulty film back. The film should advance without resorting to activating the film-wind release lever. That is only for intentionally advancing a partially exposed roll of film. Make sure the multi-exposure lever is not engaged and that the counter does advance and the red mark disappears as you advance to an unexposed frame.
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What does A ERR mean?

There are several situations when this message happens and the camera locks up, and almost none of them has anything to do with the cause stated in the camera manual: film DX coding error. (If it is truly a DX-coding error, manually setting the ISO speed of the film should solve the problem. This could happen in cold weather.) Scenario One: when using Alkaline batteries and the batteries are almost exhausted, and yet one continues to shoot. The battery may not have enough power to complete the shutter firing operation (which usually includes: mirror up, close down diaphragm, shutter fire, mirror down, open diaphragm, advance film, and charge the shutter for next frame). The camera could be lock up in the middle of the operation, left with a dimmed viewfinder. Usually an indication appears quite early if one pays attention: when the batteries are almost exhausted, the film advance becomes noticeably slow. In normal situation film advance is very fast and one cannot distinguish it from other noise such as mirror flipping. When the batteries almost exhausted, the film-advance could take almost 1 second, and the noise of film advancing has been mistakenly identified by some as "beep". I think those is the result of over-adjustment for the Premature Battery Indication problem. This scenario is particular to using alkaline batteries, due to the peculiar behavior of the alkaline battery: even when its power is almost exhausted, it still has a pretty high voltage. Solution: replace the batteries and fire the shutter once should solve the problem. I am pretty sure this is normal, since it happened to me several times, and I once deliberately repeated this happening. Scenario Two: At the end of a roll, when the remaining film is too short for one more frame but long enough to fool the camera, the camera could end up with "Err" message. Solution: rewind the film and load with the new one, and possibly fire the shutter once could solve the problem. (This has never happened to me, but summarized from other’s reports.) Scenario Three: I've heard of two reports: happened in the middle of a roll, with sufficient battery power. I have no idea what’s going on. (Could be really a DX-coding problem, which does not necessarily occur just at the beginning of a roll.) Solution: probably should send the camera in for a check. (Also, both reports of this problem occurs while using Kodachrome films.)
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Pentax MZ 50 film winding problem

Well, I'm not a camera repairman, but it sounds to me (and probably to you too) that the electronics are damaged or perhaps there's dust in the contacts inside. I also have an MZ-50. There's so many electronics involved and they don't age so gracefully. I would consider buying another one off eBay or you can get a ZX-30 (same as MZ-30) for $75 from Blue Moon Camera & Machine with a 1 year warranty (parts and labor). The best way would be, in my opinion, to get a manual, mechanical camera from the 1970s and put a good lens on it. Those seem to last forever. No electronics to worry about. Advance and rewind the film manually. You can use a digital camera as a light meter to set the aperture and shutter speed. I'm thinking of going this route when my MZ-50 finally conks out.
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