A week ago dryer stopped heating and we replaced the heating element seemed to fix problem and noticed it was getting hotter than normal and quit heating again after a week,took element out and had tested it was fine replaced 279973 thermal cutoff kit (whirlpool factory certified parts)also made sure there were no clogs inside the dryer and vent to outside. dryer is working and heating but getting so terribly hot no matter what setting its on.
3-5 ACCESS TO THE BLOWER WHEEL OR THERMOSTATS
To get to the blower wheel, remove the back of the dryer.
The blower wheel is under the bottom of the lint screen duct to your left, as you look at the back of the dryer.
The operating thermostats are at the blower wheel outlet.
In electric models, the hi-temperature cutout thermostat is mounted to the heat riser.
3-6 TEMPERATURE CONTROLS AND HI-TEMP SAFETIES
These clothes dryer machines use operating thermostats to control the temperature inside the drum, and hi-limit thermostats to prevent overheating of the dryer drum.. Many machines also have extra temperature controls, such as bias thermostats and heaters, hi-temperature cutoffs, and thermal fuses.
Bias thermostats are just like regular operating thermostats, except that they are mounted inside a bias heater. When the bias heater is energized, it generates a small amount of heat, which causes the operating thermostat to open sooner, keeping the dryer drum cooler inside. Thus a bias heater allows a single operating thermostat to act like both a hi-temp and a lo-temp operating thermostat.
A thermal fuse is found on the blower outlet, right next to the operating thermostat(s.) This fuse will blow when too high a temperature is sensed at the outlet; usually when one of the operating thermostats has failed. If it blows, the motor may not start, or you may get no heat (no voltage to the burner.)
A thermal cut-off is mounted on the clothes dryer heater box. It is a back-up for the hi-limit thermostat. Whenever you replace it, you should replace the hi-limit thermostat, too. A high-temperature condition causes it to open, an overheated grounded heat element may also cause it to open.
SOURCE: I have a Kenmore Mod # 110.63932102 electric
have you checked the heat selector switch on the control panal
SOURCE: No Heat - Kenmore Series 90 electric dryer
check cord conections and timer contacts (big wires)
SOURCE: Electric dryer model 110.64942300 runs
If air ducts are OK, then problem is either a thermostat that is not cutting off at temp., or an element that is always on because of a contact.
Check the remaining thermostats (cycling thermostats), and replace them along with the thermal cutoff.
After replacement, check if the heating element is staying always on. If element is on all the time, then also element and its wiring must be checked, as the element is plugged (it is staying always on because of a contact).
Here parts and diagrams.
Regards.
SOURCE: our dryer stopped heating so we changed element
The cutoff is there to trip if too much heat builds up around the heating element. The most common reason for this is plugged venting. But it has to do with poor air flow for sure.
- Check to make sure your lint screen is clean and nothing is fallen down the lint filter chute
- Briefly run the dryer without the vent connected and feel the air coming out the back of the dryer, it should feel like good air flow, now connect it again and feel the air where it comes out of your home, it should feel about the same strength.
- To clean the vent, you can use a long brush, a vacuum or even a leaf blower to try and clear the lint. (blow from inside out or you may make a mess inside)
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Disconnected vent and made sure no clogs in lint trap its all clog free when I run dryer on air only element is heating strong
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