Bar on Fluidity spins around

If you can remove the cover on the left side you will see the presser foot bar. On the bar there will be a screw that may be loose. Turn the handwheel until the needle is all the way down and lift the foot manually until just before it makes contact with the needle clamp and tighten the screw on the presser foot bar.
That should do it.

Sue:

Wear gloves when handling the chain (or have a lot of band aids).
You will need a 7/16 or 1/2 inch wrench and a screwdriver. Lay the saw on its side so the bar is up. There will be two studs with nuts on them. Both nuts are the same size. Look at the front of the motor housing cover on the outside of the chain bar and you will see a screw head. Loosen the two nuts holding the bar (just a few turns) and turn the screw so the chain tightens. When you pull up on the chain at the middle of the bar the chain should not pull up more than 1/16" (one sixteenth of an inch). If the dogs on the inside of the chain pull clear of the track around the outside of the bar, the chain is too loose. Once you have the chain tension correct, tighten the two bolts, and tighten them good and tight. If the chain adjustment is correct, when you pull the chain away from the bar at the center of the bar, it should pull up about 1/16 of an inch and you should not be able to pull the dogs out of the slot around the edge of the bar. You should be able to pull the chain around the bar (as if the saw were running).

Loosen and remove bar lock nuts and cover. screw tensioning screw to loosest point. wrap chain onto teeth of drive sprocket, then within grooves on bar. Be certain cutting edges are facing forward. Look at chain before removing. set bar with new chain to ensure the tension pin aligns with bar tensioning hole. Replace cover set nuts loosely. Tighten chain to about 1/4" out of groove when pulled on (wear gloves). Tighten nuts, spin chain to see it moves freely but does not hang free og bar groove. re-tension as necessary. Happy cutting!

LOL.....Don't panic...
There are 2 nutz on the chain/bar side of the saw.
You must loosen first, then locate the adjustment screw (reg flat screwdriver) on the end of the bar and next to the 2 nutz you loosen at the bar/chain.
Best to set saw flat and support the end of the bar/chain, tighten chain to a point where you pull on it and it can be pulled about 1/4 inch from bar with medium strength, "snug" I like to call it.
re-tighten your nutz after adjustment.
NOTE: I have found that when you support the end of the bar it raises it a bit, after you tighten your bar the tension increases depending on model of saw. Only takes a few minutes to play around adjusting and you will get it.

Hi there,

Chainsaw bars get loose all the time. This can create a dangerous situation.

Tightening the chain is done through the positioning of the bar. The further away from the drive gear it extends, the tighter the chain is.

The are usually two nuts holding the bar on. These need to be loosened slightly to allow the bar movement.

Depending on your model there may be a guard over them. Remove it.

Once the nuts are loose, locate the tensioning screw. It will be relatively small, located adjacent to and facing parallel to the bar.

This screw is attached to a metal lip that in turn is attached to the bar. The screw remains in one place while the lip moves up down.

Start spinning. Keep going until the chain is tight.

Tighten the Bar Nuts, replace the guard if necessary.

Now go slice some wood.

Best regards
Mike

ok i assume it is an electric chain saw? chain usually gets loose and can jump off clutch sprocket . to remedy this there should be atleast one nut or bolt sometimes two nuts or bolts depending on brand and model on the side cover where bar and chain inter the clutch area remove those and cover will lift off second there is a screw that faces front next to bar should be a regular slotted screw head loosenit all the way up till bar gets loose and remove bar by pulling away from saw this will come off veryeasy and chain shoouls fit on teeth of clutch sprocket and fit back onto bar tighten screw till chain tightens up on bar then replace cover and nuts on side cover but do not tighten the with one hand put tension on chain by pulling down on it while tightening screw till chain feels elastic snapping back to bar then toghten up nuts . chain should have no more then 1/4 inch slack around bar this is the correct tension youshould maintain.

It is possible that the clutch has froze, could try taking the side pannel of and seeing if it spins freely with out the chain bar on. If it does, it could be a problem with the chain, make sure its not tightened up too tight and that the chain can move freely over the bar.

I don't own a 360, but most saws you have to loosen the two nuts that hold the bar on, and adjust the adjusting screw that points toward the front of the saw while holding up on the tip of the bar. Tighten until the chain is snug, but still loose enough to be able to spin the chain on the bar.

Turn the plastic center screw counter clockwise. The bottom spray bar is supposed to be loose so it will rotate under water pressure. Rattling maybe coming from diswasher/cabinet contact, or debris caught in the main pump or drain pump, or the food disposer.