Speaker fuse - Gemini Sound Products Music

These are passive speakers, so if there is a fuse at all it will be as a high frequency protection circuit on the crossover.

This speaker at full power draws average 1.3A at 230V and 2.5A at 120V. Mackie's recommended fuses are in line with this so your fuse is actually too high a rating. It is possible you are using cheap fast blow fuses or are over-driving the speaker (which should cause the fuse to blow) These speakers are only capable of 118db sustained (@1M) so cannot be expected to cope with anything but small venues or gentle music.

If the fuse is correct ( check manual) it shouldn't blow under normal operation. Once in while a fuse will break internally and thus blow the fuse. look close at the blown fuse If it is a "violent" blow (totally black inside) then you have an overload condition. I would use an ohm meter to check the connection to the speakers. Usually it should be between 8 ohms and 4 ohms if the number is lower than 4 ohms your speakers or wiring are putting to much of a load on the amp. If the fuse was not a "violent" blown fuse then replace with a new fuse of the exact proper value. many amps use an MDL fuse that is a slow blow fuse and has much different in circuit function than a ACG fuse so use only the exact proper furse that the manufacture recomends. If the load (speaker and wiring) is correct and the fuse is correct and still blows then you have a component problem and the amp will need repair

Actually its pretty funny thing with those speakers is the "fuse" is Actually called a Lamp in this case. These are what they call a " Red Dot Fuse ". in all the years i've been doing this i've never thought to look up the value haha. Just have to know there are Red Dot lamps and Blue dots and No Dot. If you examine the LAMP you should see somewhere close to the ends ON THE GLASS a color dot of some kind. almost like someone painted it on there. Red Dot Lamp. any parts distributer for people like Harbinger, Peavey, and B52 will KNOW what your talking about

A shorted speaker cable could cause this... however, what you do is to replace the fuse BUT wire a 150 Watt lamp in series with the power input... This acts as a resetable fuse for testing. If the lamp stays lit, you still have a failure.

The SP2 speakers are rated at 1000 watts PROGRAM which is around 500 watts RMS MAXIMUM. You should be using an amp capable of a maximum of 500 watts a side... Your amp is WAY too big. You will have to throttle it down. The speakers have the protection for the tweeters but NOT for the woofers. At five hundred watts RMS and 8 ohms the current is: P = I^2 * R so I^2 = 500/8 = 62.5 so MAX current is 7.9 amps. I recommend you put a 8 amp FAST BLOW fuse in the speaker leads. If the fuse blows, you have saved another speaker and you are DRIVING them too hard. For greater safety make the fuse a 7.5 amp fast blow. Also get a sound meter. The max on these speakers is 125 Db at a meter distance... and in your venue you should NOT exceed 100 Db to be safe with the OSHA regulations regarding hearing protection... I suspect you are driving the speakers too hard. One side may be getting more bass. The speakers are rated down to 55 Hz. DO NOT boost bass up as you will overheat the speakers. If you are using microphones, be careful of feedback, especially that above hearing range. If you need real low bass, then get an 18 inch subwoofer. No matter, stay within safe sound levels to avoid lawsuits and hearing loss... I know several deaf musicians...

It may NOT have a fuse. If too much power was sent or an amplifier drove DC to the speaker, the voice coil may have fried. The specs do NOT brag aboput protection, so it is likely either the speaker is blown or the internal wiring is broken. Open the unit and use an ophmmeter to tesst the speakers.

The fuse blew because of excess current. The cause of the excess current is either excess volume, a short in the speaker, OR the amp has failed and is shorted to one of the power rails internally and is driving DC current out.

Replace the fuse and use a meter to check the output voltage with NO speaker connected. It should be under 1/2 volt period. If it is, then check the resistance of the speaker. The DC resistance should be a little less than the rated impedance. Otherwise if the amp is kicking out a higher voltage or blows the fuse again, have the amp repaired.

This is a problem that may likely require the skills of an experienced repair tech. If you are not comfortable working on electronic devices, find someone who can do it for you. UNPLUG YOUR SPEAKER BEFORE INSPECTING A PROBLEM.

The first place I would look is the FUSE. Each of the speakers contains a power amplifier and each has a fuse that will blow to protect the power transformer, circuit and speakers. If you are getting NO POWER at all to the speaker, check the fuse first. It is located on the AC plug circuit board.

You can download the PDF for the HS series here. It includes all of the circuit diagrams, parts lists and close-up photos of the parts.

If the fuse is not the problem, the speaker's power amp has suffered more sever damage and you would certainly need an experienced technician to diagnose the problem.

Good luck!