Hi Detrix, Check with www.lcdrepair.net if you want a repair. Something is wrong with your LCD controller and or GUI interface circuit or the circuit supplying power to it. If your technically endowed, you may want to open the monitor case and clean the dust and lint from around the circuits using a Small paint brush to sweep away any built up dust. These circuits take the Signal from the computer and controls the 2.5 million pixels on the LCD screen. Dsut can cause major problems with handling all that data. Give it a shot, what do you have to loose, its not dangerous if the monitor is unplugged.
Hi Detix, Way to go man, on opening your monitor. I want you to write down all the information that identifies each board. We may need to use this information later, to order another circuit board. That is not normal to have a clink noise. I never heard a chip clink before. That is not a resistor, it is an Eprom or processor. The sticker indicates that a program is loaded on this chip. They rarely ever go bad. Now that you have the boards out and cleaned, inpsect them closely for burn holes in the square black chips that are bigger than 1/4" by 1/4" inch. If you have a meter, and know how to check ohms, you can find the small black surface mounted fuses with soldered ends. They are about 1/16" wide, 1/16" tall, and up to 1/8" long. May have a number like 50 imprinted on top. When measuring ohms and placing your meter leads on the solder ends, you should read less than 1 ohm across these. If it does not read one way and you switch leads and it does read, your checking a Diode, and that is not going to help our situation. The easy way out, is to put it back together, and see if your cleaning did the trick. If not we need to investigate which board is the likely candidate to replace and put a call into www.lcdrepair.net. It is awesome you have got htis far. Way to go man.
Hay Detrix, You gave me a thanks for trying. We havent finished yet. Are you going to trash it, or have you messed up some way?
Hi Detrix, I 
Wow, I am impressed with your effort Detrix. My Email is [email protected]. When I refer to Ohm's, I am talking about the resistance and the fuses ability to conduct current like water through a hose pipe. You will need to determine the resistance of fuses with a volt ohm meter, becuse these are not Glass Fuses like in an Automobile. In glass fuses you can see the filament that runs from one electrode to the other. The little surface mounted fuses do the same thing as glass fuses, but they are encased and you cannot see the filament. Alright I see that we need to stop working on Component level( Fuses and Chips), and go with PC board level. This is a easier way, and faster than component level, but more expensive. We will be more apt to succeed as well. I believe the one board that I posted is the one you should replace. Since you can see lines, the backlight is working. Your getting a bad screen, and that is in the interface the reads the Signal from the computer. if your going to get boards, and determine good and bad, get the ones that are between the Comuter connection and the gazillion trace ribbon that goes to the LCD screen. The backlight part will only have two or three wires per light. I believe it is working. I will be around to help just make a post and I get an amil every time. I am impressed with your effort and willing to stick with you on this adventure.
Your doing the right thing by keep the LCD glass in the styrofoam . That LCD glass is etched with Grooves, like a corn field. It is easy to crack because it had thousands of score marks. Alway treat the LCD screen with kid gloves. by the way I did not pay attetion to my typing. Basically when you post a message, I get an email, not an amil.
I have tried to find your parts at a better price and I believe the Partstore is the best choice, you done well in finding them. SInce you do not have a black screen and getting some lines on your screen, that kind of rules out the Inverter BN4100103. This leaves us with the LCD controller BN91-00836U, the connectors on the LCD , and the cables running from the controller to the LCD connectors.
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Definitely I will try to clean the circuits ASAP and see the result. If not, I will try another supplier power . I will get back after these tests.
So, I opened the back panel. There are 3 Circuit Boards with 3 different sizes.
I need to know which one is "LCD controller, the GUI interface circuit or the circuit
supplying power" in order to communicate the electronics language.
Now in my description:
The big board has 2 inputs from the monitor leg support.
From this board splits another 2 outputs. One goes to the small board having 30 linear pins.
The other output goes to the medium board having 12 linear pins. From the medium board
splits another 2 inputs and 2 outputs for the LCD screen. After this description I've seen something
weird on the big board. After I took it out and cleaning the dust, and rotating the board in my hand, a small "clink" noise was
there somewhere .I started gently to shake the board and after few guessing parts, I located the noise.
It's coming from inside of a (square 1/2 " resistor??) I believe. I can provide pictures
to show the exact location. The noise is like a small bearing ball into a bottle if rotated.
My experience with electronics is not the best, I'm with mechanical stuff but as
long as I remember touching other circuits, none of them were doing like this.
So, I'm guessing this might by the problem so far, something burned inside that resistor, or whatever it is. My email at [email protected]
See picture bellow.
Thank you
Detrix
Hi Cerfer 39
First of all, I want to thank you for your support and your time offered.
Second of all, in previous discusion, I forgot to mention: After I cleaned all sockets I tried the monitor with everything open as is now, but still the same problem.
I checked all components only visually, because I don't understand the measuring procedure
with ohms??. Is it a measuring device?
(Yellow) are the fuses, the (red) are the same but smaller. (Blue) are the ones at 1/4", but
no holes. I checked again the noise, and I think it comes from the nut attached to
the board(see Orange). Maybe a lost extra tin after factory soldering from underneath. So
I don't think It's coming from the Eprom, as previously.
I know the parts number, I searched on "http://www.partstore.com" but I will confirm with
you again:
1. ASSY CHASSIS-E25;DE1, Samsung Part Number: BN9100836U
2. INVERTER;RL17,SIC842, Samsung Part Number: BN4400103B
3. I did not remove the 3rd part yet. Should I ?
See more pictures.
I think I will do this:
I will order both parts 1,2 and see which one is god or bad. And I will return back the one that I don't need.
P.S. Latter I realized that the estimating procedure has to be done at the end.
I'm new at this forum. I'm sorry, but we will fix it some how.
I can send you better pictures. I need an email
Thank you
Detrix
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