Question about Ovens
My Maytag gas oven heats from the top when you set it on a temperature in the bake mode and scorches food quickly that I am trying to bake. I am pretty sure bake mode heats from the bottom and broil mode heat from the top. It just seems to be stuck in the broil mode even in the bake mode
Sounds like you need to call MAYTAG repair service ,control board has probably failed .we do not recommend DIY fixing of any gas appliance.
Posted on Feb 15, 2018
Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
Here's a link to this great service
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Faulty bake or broil element
The solution to this problem depends on whether the oven is electric or gas. Electric oven. If your electric oven's bake or broil element isn't working properly, either it isn't receiving electric power or the element or the oven control may need to be replaced. In many cases, the wiring to the elements can be burnt or broken. 1) Be sure the controls are set on the proper setting. 2) Be sure the stove is plugged in and/or check the circuit breaker or fuse that serves that circuit. 3) Call an appliance repairperson or replace the element yourself as follows. 4) Unplug the oven and let any hot parts cool. 5) Unscrew the mounting screws that secure the element bracket to the oven and pull out the element far enough to access its terminals. Note which wires are attached to each of the terminals, then disconnect the wires (pull off the wire clips or unscrew the wires). 6) Take the element to a parts dealer, along with your oven's model and serial number, and buy a replacement (preferably the manufacturer's suggested replacement part). 7) Reverse the process to reinstall. Gas oven. When a gas oven doesn't get hot, it generally means that it isn't receiving gas, the gas valve isn't distributing gas to the oven burner, or the ignition system -- either an electronic ignition or pilot light -- isn't working properly. A common problem with ovens that have a pilot light is that the pilot light has gone out. NOTE: Gas ranges younger than 10 years old have a sophisticated fault code system that governs their ignition. Always call an approved warranty service provider to handle problems with these ranges. Here's how to troubleshoot your range: 1) Be sure the controls are set on the proper setting. 2) Be sure the stove is plugged in and/or check the circuit breaker or fuse that serves that circuit. 3) Check the gas valve to be sure the gas supply is turned on (also make sure the house's main gas valve is turned on). 4) On a stove with a pilot light, make sure the pilot light is burning. If it isn't, re-light as discussed HERE, or in your owner's manual. 5) Adjust the pilot flame (older stoves only). 6) Turn off the gas and unplug the stove (or turn off its circuit at the electrical panel). 7) Clean out the oven burner ports, using a stiff wire. 8) Plug in the stove (or turn on its circuit) and turn the gas back on. Re-light the pilot (if it has one). 9) If the oven still doesn't work, call an appliance repairperson.
Posted on Jan 18, 2006
On these older ovens ther is usually always 120 volts on the elements at all times.
If you check across the element ends with it in bake you should read 240V. If not, there is a problem with the control. With the voltage drop you describe, it sounds like you are losing power on one line of voltage coming to the element.
Post back to let me know what you find out or if you have any questions.
Posted on Nov 24, 2007
SOURCE: Jenn Air w30400b with F2 code
Since the elements are working fine, the thermostat seems to
be in question or, the contacts and connections to the thermostat
are loose etc. This seems to be a controller / temperature thermister problem and since it is intermittent, it might just be
bad contacts in that area of the circuits. see this description below.
INGLIS Royal 100 STOVE F1 F2 F3 ERRORS
Mode lUP 48500 ( thats eye you, not ONE U )
I got the dreaded F3 error on the Display Panel,
every time I pressed BAKE or BROIL, BUT, I could
hear the three relays click in, and then kick out in
sequence, just before the F3 appeared.
I called Westinghouse ( that services INGLIS ) and
was told that F3 " means unpug for 1/2 hour and then
press CLEAR 5 Seconds to reset ". Which is nonsense.
All functions on the clock and timer work fine, and the
three relays were working, so its not a computer problem.
I called service REPAIR companies who said it was the
THERMOSTAT, and replace it - $147.99 ... The Glass tube
of the display is $200 with no circuit board, the relay board
is $300 and the computer/display is $400.
I did tests on the thermostat, first heating it with a propane
lighter, and it raised from 475 Ohms at room temperature,
to 600 ohms, so I knew it was functioning.
Then, I plugged in a variable resistor where the thermostat
plugs in. I went from Zero Ohms resistance to 5000 Ohms in
200 Ohms steps.
Zero Ohms ( equal to burnt out or unplugged) gives you
an immediate F1, which you cannot clear.
From 100 Ohms to 400 Ohms, you get Error F2, which
means thermostat too low.
From 400 Ohms to 665 Ohms there is no error.
At 665 Ohms, the BAKE will beep twice, stating that you
are setting the temperature at or lower than the actual temperature
of the oven ( you cant set the oven at 200, for example, if it is
already at 450 Degrees )
Using this 2 Beep code, I raised and lowered the resistance
and made a graph of the reading on the display versus the
OHMS that the thermostat would send to the controller:
665 Ohms = 170 Degrees Farenheit, which is the
lowest reading in the BAKE MODE.
800 Ohms = 240 Degrees
1100 Ohms = 380 Degrees
1400 Ohms = 500 Degrees, which iis the maximum that
the unit showed in the BAKE MODE.
1430 Ohms to 2750 Ohms, there was no reading, an NO ERRORS.
ABOVE 2750 OHMS, the F1 ERROR appeared again, meaning
thermostat out of range.
Note that the computer module supplies 5 volts DC to the thermostat,
to see the changes in current with changing resistance.
You can easily check the thermostat to see if it is OK, with an
Ohmeter across the thermostat, which should read about 475 Ohms
at room temperature. If it reads Zero, it is burnt out. If it reads
over 2750, it is defective. Check to see if the thermistor in the
tube is SHORTED to the steel outter case as well, as this should be
infinite ohms ( no contact )- if it reads ZERO it is shorted to case.
I found that on the Internet, there are hundreds of people looking for
the F3 code for the ROYAL 100 ( model number IUP 48500 )
and a general search shows that for 400 " other" models of all kinds,
F3 = REPLACE THERMOSTAT ! Not on this model, and all typical searches
for technical support or diagrams or troubleshooting did not even list
the Royal 100 AT ALL, as if it never existed.
I then did tests on the relay board, and replaced the capacitors, a few diodes,
some resistors that were a bit out of value, and two transistors that were
a bit out of value. There was no change in F3.
I cleaned the contacts on the three relays using a typical board fingernail
file that ladies use for their finger nails ( I keep a supply for cleaning
relay contacts, since there is sandpaper on both sides, and they are
tiny enough to fit between most contacts ). THEN, I realized that the BROIL
contacts were bouncing apart - they were too far apart, and not closing
properly, so I bent the stationary contact a bit closer, and plugged in the
stove = NO ERRORS..
I analysed the circuit, and after turning on the 3 relays ( NOTE, when you
turn on BAKE, as in a regular oven, THE BROIL ELEMENT goes on at first
to quickly help the BAKE element get the oven up to temperature )
there is a feedback circuit that feeds 250 Volts back into the 5 Volt computer
chip ( ! ! ! ) It uses two 22 Meg Ohm resistors in series for a total of 44 Million
Ohms, which shows about 46 volts accross the resistors. Since the gas
tube display uses 30 volts to light up, the 46 volts is within the computer
board's ability to lower it enough to feed into the computer. There are transisors
on the back of the control board and Zener diodes etc. to " compare " the
voltage, where 46 volts in = 250, and Zero volts, means that the element
is burnt out, the element fuse in the fuse panel is burnt out, or, the relay
contacts are dirty. The relays are absolutely standard 24 volt relays,
with a plasic cover that snaps off if you pull and wiggle it. You will see
the round silver contact pads are blackened and probaly pitted.
Sand these flat until silver/brass shiny, and test to make certain that
when you press the metal lever that the magnetic coil pulls DOWN,
that the contacts touch! If they do not touch tight, bend the
stationary contact in a tiny bit and test again.
You can first check the fuses - there are two 120 volt fuses in the
fuse panel that give you 250. Then, you can unplug the stove,
and use an OHM meter to see if the element is burnt. The two types
of elements I checked were 3000 Watt at 18.7 Ohms, and 2500 Watt,
at 48 Ohms. If the elements are burnt out, you will get ZERO ohms.
If the element is burnt internally through the insulation in the tube,
and shorting to ground, between the ends and the steel back of the
stove ( ground) you will get a reading of X amount of ohms ( which
normally should be ZERO ) If the element is burnt or shorted to
The F3 error is a really dumb mechanical errror of whether the 250 volts
is on the elements. It does not involve the computer or the thermostat,
or the relay " electronics" at all - it is just simply 3 contacts that supply
250 Volts, and whether or not the contacts work, the elements work,
or the fuses work. This the same 250 Volts that is on an ordinary
dial stove, and the dumbest part of the whole unit.
When I called service, they said they would order the $147.95 temperature
thermostat, and " see if this fixes the problem", if not they would start
replacing the modules - $300 and $400, plus labour, plus tax etc., and
since the problem was on the module, this would cost $147.95 + $300,
plus $75.00 for the first 15 minutes, and $15 for each additional 15 minutes,
for a total of about $466 dollars ( CDN ) which is about $460 dollars US.
A package of 25 fingernail files is $1.00 at the dollar store. That is all that
it cost to fix the problem. You need a square ( Robertson ) head screwdriver
to remove the 7 screws on the back panel, and then you wiggle the
covers off the relays, and clean them. It takes 10 minutes.
good luck ! Damned the manufacturers for not putting this information
in the user manual.
Robin Graves, January 2008, kidbots.com
Posted on Feb 01, 2008
You are probably going to find the lower heating element has failed. Your symptoms describe that failure exactly.
Reply back if you want instruction as to how to repair.
Posted on Feb 16, 2009
you have a bad oven sensor /faulty connection or bad control board.look for probe coming thru inside rear wall.should read 11k ohms cold.go bad a lot part number Hope this helps ,please rate my response :)
Posted on Jun 25, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Jun 19, 2016 | Maytag Ovens
Mar 09, 2016 | GE Ovens
Apr 30, 2014 | KitchenAid Ovens
Aug 10, 2011 | Maytag Ovens
Nov 04, 2010 | Hotpoint SY36 Style Line Stainless Steel...
Sep 29, 2009 | Maytag Ovens
Aug 31, 2009 | GE JGRP17 Gas Single Oven
Aug 25, 2009 | Ovens
Jun 01, 2009 | Kenmore 40494 / 40495 / 40499 Electric...
Nov 28, 2019 | Ovens
106 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: