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Stuck in broil mode

My Maytag gas oven heats from the top when you set it on a temperature in the bake mode and scorches food quickly that I am trying to bake. I am pretty sure bake mode heats from the bottom and broil mode heat from the top. It just seems to be stuck in the broil mode even in the bake mode

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  • Ovens Master
  • 65,332 Answers

Sounds like you need to call MAYTAG repair service ,control board has probably failed .we do not recommend DIY fixing of any gas appliance.

Posted on Feb 15, 2018

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6ya6ya

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SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Anonymous

  • 74 Answers

SOURCE: Faulty bake or broil element

The solution to this problem depends on whether the oven is electric or gas. Electric oven. If your electric oven's bake or broil element isn't working properly, either it isn't receiving electric power or the element or the oven control may need to be replaced. In many cases, the wiring to the elements can be burnt or broken. 1) Be sure the controls are set on the proper setting. 2) Be sure the stove is plugged in and/or check the circuit breaker or fuse that serves that circuit. 3) Call an appliance repairperson or replace the element yourself as follows. 4) Unplug the oven and let any hot parts cool. 5) Unscrew the mounting screws that secure the element bracket to the oven and pull out the element far enough to access its terminals. Note which wires are attached to each of the terminals, then disconnect the wires (pull off the wire clips or unscrew the wires). 6) Take the element to a parts dealer, along with your oven's model and serial number, and buy a replacement (preferably the manufacturer's suggested replacement part). 7) Reverse the process to reinstall. Gas oven. When a gas oven doesn't get hot, it generally means that it isn't receiving gas, the gas valve isn't distributing gas to the oven burner, or the ignition system -- either an electronic ignition or pilot light -- isn't working properly. A common problem with ovens that have a pilot light is that the pilot light has gone out. NOTE: Gas ranges younger than 10 years old have a sophisticated fault code system that governs their ignition. Always call an approved warranty service provider to handle problems with these ranges. Here's how to troubleshoot your range: 1) Be sure the controls are set on the proper setting. 2) Be sure the stove is plugged in and/or check the circuit breaker or fuse that serves that circuit. 3) Check the gas valve to be sure the gas supply is turned on (also make sure the house's main gas valve is turned on). 4) On a stove with a pilot light, make sure the pilot light is burning. If it isn't, re-light as discussed HERE, or in your owner's manual. 5) Adjust the pilot flame (older stoves only). 6) Turn off the gas and unplug the stove (or turn off its circuit at the electrical panel). 7) Clean out the oven burner ports, using a stiff wire. 8) Plug in the stove (or turn on its circuit) and turn the gas back on. Re-light the pilot (if it has one). 9) If the oven still doesn't work, call an appliance repairperson.

Posted on Jan 18, 2006

Anonymous

  • 290 Answers

SOURCE: OLD GE Wall Oven doesn't heat properly

On these older ovens ther is usually always 120 volts on the elements at all times.
If you check across the element ends with it in bake you should read 240V. If not, there is a problem with the control. With the voltage drop you describe, it sounds like you are losing power on one line of voltage coming to the element.
Post back to let me know what you find out or if you have any questions.

Posted on Nov 24, 2007

SOURCE: Jenn Air w30400b with F2 code

Since the elements are working fine, the thermostat seems to
be in question or, the contacts and connections to the thermostat
are loose etc. This seems to be a controller / temperature thermister problem and since it is intermittent, it might just be
bad contacts in that area of the circuits. see this description below.

INGLIS Royal 100 STOVE F1 F2 F3 ERRORS
Mode lUP 48500 ( thats eye you, not ONE U )

I got the dreaded F3 error on the Display Panel,
every time I pressed BAKE or BROIL, BUT, I could
hear the three relays click in, and then kick out in
sequence, just before the F3 appeared.

I called Westinghouse ( that services INGLIS ) and
was told that F3 " means unpug for 1/2 hour and then
press CLEAR 5 Seconds to reset ". Which is nonsense.

All functions on the clock and timer work fine, and the
three relays were working, so its not a computer problem.
I called service REPAIR companies who said it was the
THERMOSTAT, and replace it - $147.99 ... The Glass tube
of the display is $200 with no circuit board, the relay board
is $300 and the computer/display is $400.

I did tests on the thermostat, first heating it with a propane
lighter, and it raised from 475 Ohms at room temperature,
to 600 ohms, so I knew it was functioning.

Then, I plugged in a variable resistor where the thermostat
plugs in. I went from Zero Ohms resistance to 5000 Ohms in
200 Ohms steps.

Zero Ohms ( equal to burnt out or unplugged) gives you
an immediate F1, which you cannot clear.
From 100 Ohms to 400 Ohms, you get Error F2, which
means thermostat too low.
From 400 Ohms to 665 Ohms there is no error.
At 665 Ohms, the BAKE will beep twice, stating that you
are setting the temperature at or lower than the actual temperature
of the oven ( you cant set the oven at 200, for example, if it is
already at 450 Degrees )
Using this 2 Beep code, I raised and lowered the resistance
and made a graph of the reading on the display versus the
OHMS that the thermostat would send to the controller:
665 Ohms = 170 Degrees Farenheit, which is the
lowest reading in the BAKE MODE.
800 Ohms = 240 Degrees
1100 Ohms = 380 Degrees
1400 Ohms = 500 Degrees, which iis the maximum that
the unit showed in the BAKE MODE.
1430 Ohms to 2750 Ohms, there was no reading, an NO ERRORS.
ABOVE 2750 OHMS, the F1 ERROR appeared again, meaning
thermostat out of range.

Note that the computer module supplies 5 volts DC to the thermostat,
to see the changes in current with changing resistance.
You can easily check the thermostat to see if it is OK, with an
Ohmeter across the thermostat, which should read about 475 Ohms
at room temperature. If it reads Zero, it is burnt out. If it reads
over 2750, it is defective. Check to see if the thermistor in the
tube is SHORTED to the steel outter case as well, as this should be
infinite ohms ( no contact )- if it reads ZERO it is shorted to case.

I found that on the Internet, there are hundreds of people looking for
the F3 code for the ROYAL 100 ( model number IUP 48500 )
and a general search shows that for 400 " other" models of all kinds,
F3 = REPLACE THERMOSTAT ! Not on this model, and all typical searches
for technical support or diagrams or troubleshooting did not even list
the Royal 100 AT ALL, as if it never existed.

I then did tests on the relay board, and replaced the capacitors, a few diodes,
some resistors that were a bit out of value, and two transistors that were
a bit out of value. There was no change in F3.

I cleaned the contacts on the three relays using a typical board fingernail
file that ladies use for their finger nails ( I keep a supply for cleaning
relay contacts, since there is sandpaper on both sides, and they are
tiny enough to fit between most contacts ). THEN, I realized that the BROIL
contacts were bouncing apart - they were too far apart, and not closing
properly, so I bent the stationary contact a bit closer, and plugged in the
stove = NO ERRORS..

I analysed the circuit, and after turning on the 3 relays ( NOTE, when you
turn on BAKE, as in a regular oven, THE BROIL ELEMENT goes on at first
to quickly help the BAKE element get the oven up to temperature )
there is a feedback circuit that feeds 250 Volts back into the 5 Volt computer
chip ( ! ! ! ) It uses two 22 Meg Ohm resistors in series for a total of 44 Million
Ohms, which shows about 46 volts accross the resistors. Since the gas
tube display uses 30 volts to light up, the 46 volts is within the computer
board's ability to lower it enough to feed into the computer. There are transisors
on the back of the control board and Zener diodes etc. to " compare " the
voltage, where 46 volts in = 250, and Zero volts, means that the element
is burnt out, the element fuse in the fuse panel is burnt out, or, the relay
contacts are dirty. The relays are absolutely standard 24 volt relays,
with a plasic cover that snaps off if you pull and wiggle it. You will see
the round silver contact pads are blackened and probaly pitted.
Sand these flat until silver/brass shiny, and test to make certain that
when you press the metal lever that the magnetic coil pulls DOWN,
that the contacts touch! If they do not touch tight, bend the
stationary contact in a tiny bit and test again.

You can first check the fuses - there are two 120 volt fuses in the
fuse panel that give you 250. Then, you can unplug the stove,
and use an OHM meter to see if the element is burnt. The two types
of elements I checked were 3000 Watt at 18.7 Ohms, and 2500 Watt,
at 48 Ohms. If the elements are burnt out, you will get ZERO ohms.
If the element is burnt internally through the insulation in the tube,
and shorting to ground, between the ends and the steel back of the
stove ( ground) you will get a reading of X amount of ohms ( which
normally should be ZERO ) If the element is burnt or shorted to
ground, replace.

The F3 error is a really dumb mechanical errror of whether the 250 volts
is on the elements. It does not involve the computer or the thermostat,
or the relay " electronics" at all - it is just simply 3 contacts that supply
250 Volts, and whether or not the contacts work, the elements work,
or the fuses work. This the same 250 Volts that is on an ordinary
dial stove, and the dumbest part of the whole unit.

When I called service, they said they would order the $147.95 temperature
thermostat, and " see if this fixes the problem", if not they would start
replacing the modules - $300 and $400, plus labour, plus tax etc., and
since the problem was on the module, this would cost $147.95 + $300,
plus $75.00 for the first 15 minutes, and $15 for each additional 15 minutes,
for a total of about $466 dollars ( CDN ) which is about $460 dollars US.

A package of 25 fingernail files is $1.00 at the dollar store. That is all that
it cost to fix the problem. You need a square ( Robertson ) head screwdriver
to remove the 7 screws on the back panel, and then you wiggle the
covers off the relays, and clean them. It takes 10 minutes.

good luck ! Damned the manufacturers for not putting this information
in the user manual.

Robin Graves, January 2008, kidbots.com

Posted on Feb 01, 2008

Mark Egan

  • 1214 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag oven top heating element won't come on unless on broil

You are probably going to find the lower heating element has failed. Your symptoms describe that failure exactly.

Reply back if you want instruction as to how to repair.

Posted on Feb 16, 2009

Anonymous

  • 126 Answers

SOURCE: maytag gas oven wont restart after pre heat

you have a bad oven sensor /faulty connection or bad control board.look for probe coming thru inside rear wall.should read 11k ohms cold.go bad a lot part number Hope this helps ,please rate my response :)

12001655

Posted on Jun 25, 2009

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1 Answer

Maytag Oven. The bake do not heat, the broil is ok. what is the problem ?


Look at the wiring diagram... The manual reset Thermal Limiter Switch (part number 74008715), located on the lower rear insulation retainer can keep both elements from working, not one at a time... I would inspect the back of the bake relay for a burnt/failing solder joint. Swapping the BAKE and BROIL leads is an acceptable test, but if you put the bake leads on the broil and still get no heat: check the control relay. If the broil leads will not heat the bake element, you have a bad element or bad connection. Be sure to do all testing of the elements with at least one wire detached so as not to red a back circuit.

Jun 19, 2016 | Maytag Ovens

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What should the voltages across the elements in an oven be when using the different settings?


The heating element is either off or on and it should be 220. The issue you are having is the thermostat.

Mar 09, 2016 | GE Ovens

1 Answer

First start up


You're actually referring to the "broiler" elements. Most electric ovens have these at the top of the main oven space. (Some gas ovens are set up the same way, but many put the broiler elements in a bottom drawer.)

As their name implies, broiler elements are active only when you're broiling. They will not go on for baking.

Broiling is the process of cooking food by exposing it directly to a high heat source at close range. To broil a steak, for example, you would place the pan holding the steak on an oven rack raised to the top or next to top position in the oven (consult the manual) and set the oven to broil. The top elements will then turn on and cook the meat by direct radiation.

Most people, however, use ovens for baking far more often than for broiling. Baking is the process of cooking food (cakes, casseroles, roasts etc) by indirect heat. In other words you raise the oven to a certain temperature, put the food on a rack more in the middle of the oven, and let the surrounding heat cook it over time. When you bake the top broiler elements usually don't come on at all.

I hope this helps.

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1 Answer

My Maytag MGR5750ADW oven will take forever to preheat. It does get hot, but the preheat light takes a very long time to go out. Food takes much longer to cook as the oven does not seem to get up to temp.


Hello there and welcome to fixya
When the food you're baking is done on top but not on the bottom--or when baking just takes far too long to finish--the bake element may be burned out. You may get fooled into thinking it's working, because the oven is hot inside. But many electric ovens use the broil element, too, during the preheat and bake cycles. So the food may be getting heated only by the broil element, which causes poor baking results. If the bake element is burned out, replacing it should solve the problem. To determine if the heating element is burned out, watch the part testing video at the bottom of this page. Otherwise, you need to further troubleshoot the oven's electrical system to locate the defective wire or component. When the temperature is consistent but too high or too low, it could be one of several different things. First check to see if the thermostat sensing bulb has come loose from its holder. It could be lying on the floor of the oven or resting on the heating element. This would cause the oven to not heat correctly. If the thermostat bulb is not dislodged, it's likely that the thermostat or sensor is either mis-calibrated or defective. Electronic ovens with a digital display use a sensor to monitor oven temperature. To solve temperature problems for these models, you may need to replace the sensor. On some digital-display models, you can calibrate the temperature using the key pad. See your operator's manual for details. Ovens without a digital display often use a mechanical system for controlling temperature. On many of these units, you can remove the thermostat knob and adjust the knob itself to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. If, when you remove the knob, there's a screw on the back of it with a small calibration plate, you can loosen the screw, adjust the plate, then tighten the screw again. If the knob isn't adjustable, and the oven temperature is off by more than 30 to 40 degrees, you need to replace the thermostat to solve the problem.

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1 Answer

The heating element becomes red hot,but the food doesn't appear to cook in an appropriate time os fashion. Any answers or suggestions


The top of whatever food you're cooking should be in the center of the oven for the most effective cooking. Do you have the oven set on bake or broil? Broil is a direct heat method and if the food is on the lower shelf and the oven is set on broil, the food is not getting enough heat to cook it properly. Baking heats the lower element and the heat rises to surround the food. Broiling heats the top element and since heat rises, it is not getting down to the food to surround it and cook it.

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Oven takes a long time to preheat


If it's electric ... could be one of:

1. Bake or Broil element has gone bad. The Broil element is cycled on and off during Bake pre-heat, so if it is bad this would slow down pre-heat. Does Broil work OK? (If gas, may be ignitor problem).

2. Temperature sensor problem. Does the oven eventually get to the right temperature?

3. Control board failure. If #1 and #2 are ok ... we see the control board fail and cause these symptoms. If so, we may be able to help you, we repair control boards at
www.fixyourboard.com.

Sep 29, 2009 | Maytag Ovens

1 Answer

GE Profile Stove baking option not working


Possibly the bake igniter, the temperature sensor or the electronic oven clock/control. Does broil mode heat properly or does it run cool also? If broil heats to the proper temperature then the temperature sensor is probably ok. That leaves the ignitor or the controller which takes some more troubleshooting. If it is the controller, we repair them at www.fixyourboard.com.

Aug 31, 2009 | GE JGRP17 Gas Single Oven

1 Answer

Whrilpool GR450LXHB2- The stovetop works, but the


It won't bake or broilIf neither the bake nor the broiler heating elements heat, but the range burners still work, the clock may be set for a timed or self-cleaning cycle. Check to be sure the clock buttons and knobs are set properly. If your clock has a knob that says "push for man(ual)", push the knob in and try the baking and broiling elements again. If it still does not operate properly, you probably have a defect in the thermostat, selector switch, or common wiring.

If the oven does not have a separate bake/broil/etc. selector switch, the problem may be with the thermostat. But it's not easy to check the selector switch or thermostat for proper operation. If you suspect a problem in this area, call a qualified appliance repair technician.
  • When the food you're baking is done on top but not on the bottom--or when baking just takes far too long to finish--the bake element may be burned out.


  • You may get fooled into thinking it's working, because the oven is hot inside. But many electric ovens use the broil element, too, during the preheat and bake cycles. So the food may be getting heated only by the broil element, which causes poor baking results.

    If the bake element is burned out, replacing it should solve the problem. Otherwise, you need to further troubleshoot the oven's electrical system to locate the defective wire or component.

  • When the temperature is consistent but too high or too low, it could be one of several different things. First check to see if the thermostat sensing bulb has come loose from its holder. It could be lying on the floor of the oven or resting on the heating element. This would cause the oven to not heat correctly.


  • If the thermostat bulb is not dislodged, it's likely that the thermostat or sensor is either mis-calibrated or defective.

    Electronic ovens with a digital display use a sensor to monitor oven temperature. To solve temperature problems for these models, you may need to replace the sensor. On some digital-display models, you can calibrate the temperature using the key pad. See your operator's manual for details.

    Ovens without a digital display often use a mechanical system for controlling temperature. On many of these units, you can remove the thermostat knob and adjust the knob itself to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat.

    If, when you remove the knob, there's a screw on the back of it with a small calibration plate, you can loosen the screw, adjust the plate, then tighten the screw again. If the knob isn't adjustable, and the oven temperature is off by more than 30 to 40 degrees, you need to replace the thermostat to solve the problem.

It won't broil Usually, when an oven won't broil, it's because the broiler element is burned out. The broiler element in an electric oven is the black, pencil-thick tube at the top of the oven. When the broiler is on, the element glows red. This element has an expected life-span of several years. It may last for only one; it may last for many more. When the element burns out, you need to replace it.

Aug 25, 2009 | Ovens

1 Answer

Oven will not heat.


Usually, when an oven won't bake, it's because the bake element is burned out. The bake element is the black, pencil- thick tube at the bottom of the oven. When the oven heats, the element glows red. This element has an expected life-span of several years. It may last for only one; it may last for many more. When the element burns out, you need to replace it.

It bakes poorly Here are two instances of when food "bakes poorly:"

  • When the food you're baking is done on top but not on the bottom--or when baking just takes far too long to finish--the bake element may be burned out.

    You may get fooled into thinking it's working, because the oven is hot inside. But many electric ovens use the broil element, too, during the preheat and bake cycles. So the food may be getting heated only by the broil element, which causes poor baking results.

    If the bake element is burned out, replacing it should solve the problem. Otherwise, you need to further troubleshoot the oven's electrical system to locate the defective wire or component.

  • When the temperature is consistent but too high or too low, it could be one of several different things. First check to see if the thermostat sensing bulb has come loose from its holder. It could be lying on the floor of the oven or resting on the heating element. This would cause the oven to not heat correctly.

    If the thermostat bulb is not dislodged, it's likely that the thermostat or sensor is either mis-calibrated or defective.

    Electronic ovens with a digital display use a sensor to monitor oven temperature. To solve temperature problems for these models, you may need to replace the sensor. On some digital-display models, you can calibrate the temperature using the key pad. See your operator's manual for details.

    Ovens without a digital display often use a mechanical system for controlling temperature. On many of these units, you can remove the thermostat knob and adjust the knob itself to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat.

    If, when you remove the knob, there's a screw on the back of it with a small calibration plate, you can loosen the screw, adjust the plate, then tighten the screw again. If the knob isn't adjustable, and the oven temperature is off by more than 30 to 40 degrees, you need to replace the thermostat to solve the problem.

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3 Answers

Maytag oven will not light


Have you tried to broil or bake? if only one of them work you have a bad ignitor. let me know and we can go deeper

Aug 23, 2007 | Maytag CWG3100A Gas Single Oven

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