Low voltage wires

I would suggest you take it to a qualified repair shop if you don't know how to test automotive electrical circuits > Viewing wiring diagrams to see what all is involved , using a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter etc.... Just replacing parts isn't the proper way to do it.Looking at a wiring diagram i see the multifunction switch. is a low voltage input to the smart junction box ( computer) The smart junction box supply's B+ voltage for the low beams . For high beams the SJB energizes the high beam relay . With the smart junction box being in control there could possibly be diagnostic trouble codes stored . Autozone an advance etc.. can not pull these codes . One dim one ???? One dim low beam ? Could be a ground issue . You probably don't know about voltage drop testing ,do you ?
Mastering Voltage Drop Testing with Pete Meier and Jerry Truglia
Electric Testing Techniques You Need to Know

Free wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free-tsb Enter vehicle info. Year ,make , model an engine size . Under system click on lighting ,then under subsystem click on head lamps . Click the search button then the blue links . Test don't guess

Hello

Check the following:

* Circuit breaker on main control box is tripped
* Fuse blown (check fuse in main control box assembly).
* Incorrect polarity at battery terminals
* Dead batteries.
* Charging cable is still connected to charging receptacle
* One of the cable connections at the main control box is loose.
* Control connection cable disconnected
* Broken key switch
* Throttle stuck fully open
* Throttle control potentiometer broken.
* Speed potentiometer broken
* Battery voltage too low.
* Faulty charging cable.
* Charger not working.
* Charging circuitry in main control box assembly not working


If these check OK, the problem is likely to in the control connection cable or upper control box Verify that the upper control box is getting 24V. (Blue wire on red connector.)

* If the upper control box is not getting 24V, replace control connection cable

* If the upper control box is getting 24V, check key switch operation and verify wiring in the upper control box. Trace voltage from keyswitch on to find where the problem occurs. (Replace upper control box if necessary.)

* Charge batteries with a 12V charger or replace if necessary.

* Ohm test the charging cable - replace if necessary.

* Test scooter with a different charger, if new charger works, replace charger.

* Check wiring in main control box assembly - replace in line relay if necessary
* If batteries, charger, and all wiring is good, replace controller PCB. (Note the model number for the PCB, for example 1208-2330.)

There are two fuse boxes. A baqttery junction box under the hood on the drivers side and one inside on drivers side. Good luck.

Fuse/Relay

Location

Fuse Amp

Rating

Power Distribution Box

Description

1 60A** I/P Fuse Panel

2 40A** Blower Motor Relay

3 50A** 4 Wheel Anti-Lock Brake System

(4WABS) Module

4 30A** Power Windows, Power Moon

Roof, Power Seat

5 50A** Ignition Switch, Starter Relay

6 20A** Transfer Case Relay

7 - Not Used

8 20A** Air Suspension

9 40A** Air Suspension

10 30A** PCM Power Relay

1 10A* A/C Relay

2 30A* Heated Seats

3 30A* Heated Backlight

4 15A* Fog Lamps and Daytime Running

Lamps

5 4 3 2 1

10 9 8 7 6

12 11 10 9

8 7 6 5

4 3 2 1

15 14 13

2 1 1

9

6

10

8

7

5

4

1

3 2

175

MEGAFUSE

Roadside emergencies

197

Fuse/Relay

Location

Fuse Amp

Rating

Power Distribution Box

Description

5 - Not Used

6 10A* Powertrain Control Module

7 30A* 4 Wheel Anti-Lock System

(4WABS) Module

8 15A* Rear Wiper Motor

9 20A* Fuel Pump Relay and RAP

Module

10 15A* Horn Relay

11 15A* Parklamps Relay and Mainlight

Switch

12 30A* Mainlight Switch and

Multifunction Switch

13 15A* Heated Oxygen Sensor, EGR

Vacuum Regulator, EVR Solenoid,

Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor,

Canister Vent Solenoid

14 30A* Generator/Voltage Regulator

15 - Not Used

1 - Wiper Park Relay

2 - A/C Relay

3 - Wiper High/Low Relay

4 - PCM Power Relay

5 - Fuel Pump Relay

6 - Starter Relay

7 - Horn Relay

8 - Rear Wipe Down Relay

9 - Blower Motor Relay

10 - Rear Wipe Up Relay

1 - Not Used

1 - DRL Diode
2 - Electronic Engine Controls Diode

You have a bad fan limit switch find the one that looks like yours and has the same length tube on it and after that there all universal its real simple to replace just 4 wires 2 low voltage on the limit side and 2 high voltage on the fan side instructions will come with. To remove the old one just take off cover remove screws and wires and pull it out where the wires connect you will see little metal slots above or below the wire just push it in with a little screw driver and pull the wire out. Here is a link to a web site I buy parts from. Their real fair on price and fast with ship
http://www.hvacpartsshop.com/search.aspx?find=fan+limit+switch

Hope this helps.......

You had a direct short. One of the wires shouldn't have been where it was. Tell me the color of the wires and the hook up.

rule of thumb from thermostat
red to R
White to W
Green to G
Yellow or Blue to Y
no comm hook up from t-stat
now the control for the ac is the Y terminal
and the only wire left to Common. Generally speaking. Let me know the wire colors? ken

24 v dc
http://www.ecocalc.com/manufacturer_pv/804/BP+Solar/BP+SX+120+U+(24V)

hope this helps

Look in your yellow pages for an ac distributor that carries your brand of equipment

test

red power
yellow ac
green fan
white heat

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