I HAVE A TOWERSTAT RF WHICH CONTROL THE HEATING I NEED TO FIND OUT HOW YOU WORK IT

GENERAL INFO ERROR CODES PROBLEM PARTS SOLUTION E1 NOT ENOUGH WATER INLET VALVE CLEAN OR REPLACE E2 NOT DRAINING DRAIN PUMP KINKED HOSE--ADJUST HOSE TOO HIGH--ADJUST PUMP FAULTY--REPLACE E3 WATER TEMP TOO COOL THERMOSTAT STAT OPEN--REPLACE TIMER CONTACTS OPEN-- REPLACE HEATER OPEN--- REPLACE ABOVE FAULTS CAN ALSO CAUSE TIMER TO STALL(TIMER STOPS TO ALLOW HEATING OF WATER) TIMER WOULD STALL AT THE 2,5,7 AND 10 O'CLOCK POSITION E4 OVERFLOW SWITCH ACTIVATED CHECK FLOAT IS FREE CHECK LEVEL OF D/W SOAP- AMOUNT AND KIND WASHARM STUCK OR SPLIT E5 E6 & E7 TEMP SENSOR THERMOSTAT REPLACE ERROR CODES: DDW497W Problem Solution Error 1 Water supply is turned off Turn water supply on Detached / damaged pipe Replace / readjust pipe Low water pressure Requires min. 0.04Mpa water pressure Defective water fill valve Replace water fill valve Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective pressure switch Replace pressure switch Heavy water usage elsewhere in home Use unit when water usage is at a minimum Defective electric control Replace electric control Error 2 Sump or filter is obstructed Clear the sump and filter Damaged/defective drain pump Repair or replace drain pump Drain hose is obstructed or detached Clear out/readjust drain hose/tighten clamps Defective pressure switch Replace pressure switch Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 3 Voltage is too low Minimum voltage of 198 V Damaged/ defective thermostat Replace the thermostat Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring NTC thermistor damaged/out of position Replace or readjust the thermistor Damaged/ defective heating element Replace the heating element Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 4 Sump or filter is obstructed Clear the sump and filter Loose or damaged sump pump/drain pump Repair or replace sump pump/drain pump Drain hose is obstructed or detached Clear out/readjust drain hose/tighten clamps Defective pressure switch Replace pressure switch Loose heater element Tighten heater element mounting nuts Loose spray arm Tighten spray arm Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Defective Microswitch Replace microswitch Float- defective or not in the right position Reajust / replace float Error 5 Damaged/ defective power switch Replace power switch Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 6 NTC thermistor damaged/out of position Replace or readjust the thermistor Temperature is too low Temperature should be above -20? Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 7 NTC thermistor damaged/out of position Replace or readjust the thermistor Temperature is too high Temperature should be below 120? Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric contr

There is no one answer to resolve your problem. I keep my basement about 35% year round. I have no dampness or rusting problems. I believe you would be OK as long as you are below 50%. Normally you turn the unit off when you are in the heating season as the heating system will automatically dry your home out but again depends where you live.

Set the control for what you want and see if it will hold that for you. If it cycles you are OK (this may take several hours). Get a humidity gauge at one of the box stores (they are part of many thermometers) and see where it settles at. Give it about two weeks. You may have to play with the settings as the controls have a tolerance in them. If you cannot get the humidity low enough you may need a second unit, again this depends on the area etc.

Hi, the unit is low on charge and has a refrigerant leak...

There are many reasons why a dehumidifier willnot work or collect water.
Here is a tip that I wrote to help people to figure out what is going wrongwith their dehumidifier

Dehumidifier is running but no water is in bucket

heatman101

A dehumidifier is a 'de-tuned' air conditioner. Its job is to remove some of the heat from the air, causing a temperature differential which in turn should make the warm air give up some of its moisture ... just like a AC unit.

To understand the operation, you must accept that you cannot cool anything ... you must remove the heat from it. The heat (energy) must go somewhere ... in the case of a dehumidifier, it goes back into the room. Oh yes, also contributing to the heat is the electric components you are running ... the control boards, the compressor and the fan ... all use power and thus, give off heat.

Should there be heat coming out of the unit? ... yes, if it is running. Don't get mad ... these are things you probably learned in 6th grade science class - relative humidity - heat differential - properties of energy - etc.

Thanks for your question at FixYa.com

If both the fan and compressor are going off the problem would be in the low voltage side a safety is opening. Probably low on refrigerant. You need to check refrigerant pressure when the unit is starting, if the pressure drops below 60 psig the low pressure switch will open and shut the compressor and fan off.
You really need to have a service technician check the system out for you.

Nothing in air conditioning is new. It has been done for many years.

There are three types of "compressorless" refrigeration that I can think of.

1. ) swamp coolers or evaporative coolers - these work on the process of adiabatic saturation in low humidity environments. Evaporating water removes energy from the air, makes it cooler and more humid. This is a win-win when the air is very dry, but the process doesn't work well in humid environments, were water evaporates less readily.

2.) Peltier junction solid state coolers. These are essentially a thermocouple driven in reverse. Conduction between the hot and cold plates is hard to control and at low voltages these devices need a lot of current. These units are not as efficient as mechanical refrigeration.

3.) Absorption refrigeration cycle. In these systems a solution of ammonia in water (or water in a lithium bromide brine) is used. Heating the water (or brine) drives out the ammonia (or water vapor) and takes the place of the compressor in the cycle. This cycle is useful if you have a source of waste heat. You essentially recover the energy in the waste heat to run a refrigeration unit. A few demo units have used solar energy as the heat source, but I don't think this is common

Was there any instructions with the control board? I'm assuming we are talking about a heat pump control board or defrost board.
Some have time or temperature settings on the board that needs set. There's a lot of different boards out there, some have jumper pins and some have dip switches, you almost need either the unit installation instructions or the instructions that should have came with the board. Not sure if this will help you but if it doesn't you may need to contact a dealer or the company that made this unit.

Hi,
I am Roger Duncan.
I have the same error on my Senville unit. What board did you replace, the inside board or one of the outside boards?
I really would appreciate an answer. I have been working with Gt World since July and I still have no a/c or heat.
Roger

Dehumidifiers and how they work
Heat pump dehumidifiers

Dehumidifiers use a heat pump (similar to an air conditioner's heat pump) or chemical adsorbents to remove moisture from the air without cooling the air.

A heat pump dehumidifier uses a fan to draw indoor air over a heat exchange coil. The coil is almost freezing. The water in the air condenses on the coil and is drained. A second heat exchange coil reheats the air, which the dehumidifier exhausts into the room.

A heat pump dehumidifier dumps heat lost from the compressor and fan motors into the air. It returns to the indoor air the heat generated by the dehumidifier turning water vapour to liquid. I got this off the internet

Additional heat from a dehumidifier should only be the electrical heat generated from the compressor. This is due to the fact that the cooling coil and condenser coil (hot bit) are normally located next to each other with a common airflow so the heat generated should be minimal. Hope this helps.