Need to replace the main control board

Even if you do replace the panel you still need to get rid of the cockroaches because it will keep on happening. Since the panel may be hard to find I see no other alternative then to replace it with what they suggest. I see no other option except for getting rid of your washing machine and buying a new one, so for the $60 they want to fix it seems well worth it.

Good luck,

Marty

Sounds like the controller microchip has become disconnected. You'll need to flip the SEBO over on its side and remove the floor head - to do this, kneel on the floor and press the release button below the main front bin to unlock the floor head from the main bin area. Putting one knee on the floor head might help as the lock might be still. This pulls the floor head apart from the main bin and user handle. Once unlocked, flip the head over and undo the 4 large screws (2 at the back and 2 near the front on either side) Once the floor head has become loose, ease it off slowly and you should see the microchip board. With the bumper in front of you look to your right hand side to check that the microchip thread has not been pulled out. Check that all points are pushed in correctly 0- you should download a parts and manual diagram from SEBO UK or SEBO Germany (Sebo.de) in English. This will show you the microchip board and the microchip connectors. Once checked, reverse process, fit screws back on with the floor head cover underneath and re assemble before switching back on. Hope it helps!

your main circuit board is also your speed control the motor should not have a circuit board i don't believe. open your machine up all the way to the motor and cord reel. check voltage at cord reel should be 120 +/- 10. if voltage is correct then replace speed control board.

The descripion you have send is only for the board. We need to know also how is the machine.
Is the machine working good up today and you have descover this after a fault?
If there was a fault what was that?
We need some of this information in order to get the whole picture and history of the machine.

It is possible in this case that the program controller unit is faulty as it is working erratically. Now if there is a possibility that insects have gone into the board sections itt can secrete and damage the board to short at times. So open and remove board , clean using petrol on the board and reset. check all teh connectors , teh door switch and the front panel-- this is also a suspect if there is no response.Please check the cost of a new board to thenew oven and deccide.

If there is no heating please do not switch on unless you have confirmed the fault. It is possible that the Magnetron is faulty, the temperature cut off is faulty or the main capacitor is short. It is also quite possible that insect can get into the oven and create soft spots. When you switch on these will create a short and make the voltage jump and in the long run damage the magnetron.
So Remove cover after disconnecting , check for dirt/moisture in the cabin, if so wipe clean and dry, check the magnetron and area clean and use an jet air to clean off. Check the wave guide covers, if food had deposited
then it must be checked or replaced.

No there is not, if the main motor is turning then the problem is that the brush is jammed with debris. You need to remove the brush and clean out the debris or replace the brush assembly.
I hope I have been of help but please do not hesitate to ask if you have any further questions.
I appreciate your vote if you appreciate my reply.

F9 code can mean something different depending upon the particular model.....
1.) IF your Microwave uses "UltraWave technology"/"SmartWave technology"...Then either the Magnetron has failed or the Inverter board has failed OR maybe the control board has failed (HUH?).
2.) IF your Microwave does NOT use "UltraWave technology"/"SmartWave technology" then one or more of the door switches has failed.

** "UltraWave technology"/"SmartWave technology" **
I'll explain a few things about this wonderful technology...
The control board (accepts the pushbutton commands) has to talk to the inverter board to tell it how much power should be applied to the magnetron. The inverter board will then power the magnetron and inform the control board if the magnetron is working OK.
If there is something wrong with the magnetron or inverter board or a there is a communication breakdown between the control board and the inverter board...WA-LA-----F9----

A pretty reliable test for the Magnetron is to operate the oven and listen for a ticking sound 5-6 times about a second apart. If you can hear the ticking....The magnetron has failed..if no ticking, the control or inverter board failed.

Side brush? Main brush? both? How did you find that they are not spinning? To properly test, place the front wheel on the table edge and hold the wheels up in the machine (dont hold the tires) , Then start the clean mode.
If it doesnt spin then you need to open the roomba and remove the motor to see if it is just binded up with lint. If the motor spins with your fingers then test the motor with a power supply to see if it is possibly burnt out. If it works on a power supply then your issue is on the main board and it needs replacing.

Solution for Hoover SteamVac (F7452-900) brushes not spinning
Uses the turbine model and same solution would be similar. Root cause is simply the main gear attached to turbine becomes stuck. This problem should not happen as often as I see other people also having this problem. Must be a poor design on Hoover’s part. It takes about 30 minutes and a Phillips screw driver and wrench. Pretty easy, just have to remember what screws went where.
Remove brushes, and front suction cover
On the bottom of the machine:
Remove the 4 screws behind brushes which attach the top faceplate
Remove the 2 screws from base in the sunken holes
Remove the two long silver screws from base which connect all the way to turbine assembly
Stand machine upright
Remove the floor select switch handle
Remove 1 screw near the center beside the intake hole
Remove the 2 screws over the rear wheels
Remove faceplate cover, the front will need to be gently pried over the clear plastic part, be careful about the upright disengaging lever under faceplate, move it under the metal wire
Remove the 2 screws in the front of the turbine assembly
Remove the 2 hoses on either side
Disengage the bar on the floor selector switch
Pull out the turbine assembly
Remove the 4 screws and 3 clips to separate the assembly
Remove the filter (which is most likely clean since, cleaning this is the manufactures only solution)
Remove the large white gear and with a wrench remove ball bearing
Remove other large white gear
Note that the metal gear attached to turbine will not move (this was my problem), with a wrench gently grab metal gear and twist free. Spin turbine to make sure it moves freely.
Put everything back together again and you should be good to go.

There is a board in the back (called the "SUMO board") which has a fuse hardwired to it. Most of the "no go" problems with this machine are related to this.

In order to check it, you'll want to take a thin flat-head screwdriver, and gently pry up the silver panel on the top of the machine. The easiest place to do this is on the side of the panel, as far toward the rear of the machine as possible.

You will then need to remove the 2 Torx screws on the rear panel, and the top body of the machine should then be able to be removed. There are two clips in the bag chamber, directly under the back portion of the bag compartment lid, which can be pressed in to facilitate removal of the back cover.

The sumo board will be sitting directly on the top of the machine, and the fuse in question will be on the right if you are looking at it from the rear of the machine. Unfortunately, if the fuse is blown, you will have to replace the entire circuit board. (Unless you feel very comfortable with soldering a new fuse onto it, which I do not recommend for safety reasons.)

You can also check continuity of the cord reel from here. On the right hand side of the board are two spade terminals leading to wires running down into the cord reel assembly. One black, one white. Checking the continuity between these terminals and the ends of the power supply cord will allow you to determine if the cord reel is providing power to the machine.

Accessing the cord reel will require you to remove the six Torx screws holding the main body to the base. Two of these are on the rear of the machine, and are very deep inside; so you will require a very long-shanked Torx driver to get at these. Two more are inside the bag chamber at the rear, and the other two are on the front handle assembly. This will allow you to lift the main body away from the base, and if you are replacing the cord reel you can pull the wires from the spade terminals and the socket on the sumo board, and feed them back down into the cord reel chamber to remove the old cord reel.

Reassembly is simply a reverse of the previous. Beware, however: getting the cord reel to align is something of a chore, so make sure that you have the retraction system functioning before you put the whole thing back together, or you'll be bummed when you finish reassembly and the cord won't retract.
(I've definitely never done that. Nope. Never.)

Hope that helps, good luck.

-R