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not unless its set up for 220volts also, some of the older models have a switch you can flip to make that change, the newer ones don't, most everything in Europe is 22volts,, they do have adapters with voltage step in them, so shop around, they can be pretty cheap depending on the wattage required.. hers a few you can check out http://www.amazon.com/Travel-Voltage-Power-Converter-Adapter/dp/B001AHTEEU
hi,
You have to check the working voltage of the adapter of you device. If it purchased from US then it will be 110V. I think the Line voltage in Australia is 220V.Also You have to check is there is any input voltage selector in the in its adaptor . If it there you have to change it to 220V. If there is no such selector then you have to buy a 220v to 110v converter .Then connect the out put of that converter to to your device. You can by this converter at any electronic spare part shope near to you. Or you have to by a new 9V 1.3Amps AC adaptor. When you going to by the converter or a new adaptor take the device. If so they will explain you how to connect the converter or adaptor . By changing a fuse you can't change the operating voltage. If The adapter is designed to use in 110V then the fuse will blow. If you change the fuse and make more experiment with it it will make the full system useless.
ok
The winding is center tapped. It generates +/-24.5 volts DC. Based on it being a capacitor input filter, we need a peak voltage about 1 volt higher to account for the droop of the capacitor and the .7 volt drop of one silicon diode...
Since we need 25.5 volts peak then we need that divided by 1.414 RMS out of ONE side of the center=tapped secondary... So our secondary voltage is 18 volts either side of center.
You will need a 36 volt center-tapped secondary. Here is one that would work:
I have been trying to find a schematic, however the damage should be limited in the unit.
Since there is only 9VAC input, we know that it has to go through a rectifier and a filter capacitor and then likely a regulator. I doubt the problem goes beyond the regulator.
The screen light MAY be independent of the logic power in the unit, the LED's will NOT be independent.
The voltage rating of the fuse is NOT a problem.
You likely blew out the rectifiers as a start. They may be individual diodes or a small module with four diodes inside.
The diodes SHOULD have survived but check them with an ohmmeter on the diode range. The Filter cap may be destroyed, and alsothe regulator which is likely a three terminal one like a 7805.
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