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Take a look at this YouTube page that explains with good videos what are some of the common problems with heat pump noise. The one that seems dominant is the defrost cycle a heat pump goes thru when it melts ice off the evaporative coils. In defrost cycle, The compressor runs but the cooling fan does not, so you will hear a loud buzzing sound and the unit sounds like it is stalled...because only the compressor is running to generate heat to melt coil ice.
Taking a little bit of time for heat is normal but the "pressure" thing you are referring to leads me to believe that the reversing valve is getting stuck. You will here that "pressure release" noise with a reversing valve but it should not be happening 5 minutes after start up.
Easy: Turn the "fan" switch to on at the thermostat and see if the blower starts. If no start, check breaker at breaker box. Check service disconnect at or near the air handler. With the breaker and/or service disconnect OFF check the 3 or 5 amp fuse inside the top cover in the air handler. Not so easy: (You must know what you are doing for this part or let an HVAC Tech do it for you) Open thermostat and firmly jump the Y and R terminals to see if you get the compressor to start for no more than 30 seconds. (don't do it more than once.) Jump the G and R terminals to see if you get the blower to start. If so, u have a bad thermostat. If not, check the transformer inside the same cover in air handler for proper voltage. (24V. Make sure you also get 220 on the opposite side of the transformer) If the blower comes on, but the heat pump doesnt start, open the side cover of the heat pump, with the thermostat on cool, and the temp. setting as low as possible for at least 10 minutes see if the contactor is pulled in. If so, check the capacitor and see if it's blown out. Be super careful these systems operate with 220v and the amperes are enough to kill you if you make a simple mistake.
I don't think this problem (btw I agree 'from a far distance' with the Hvac guy) is inherant to Goodman, after all the compressor (that is in the unit) is one that if found in other brands too.
Of course the compressor is under warranty so there's no charge for it - but - $800 to change out the compressor (and that's the proper fix) is a 'bit' high - you possibly could save a few bucks by getting some other estimates.
Sounds like something is stuck in the drain pump. If nothing is stuck in the pump replace the pump. It won't spin until it drains, so fixing the drain problem will fix the spin. You can get at the drain pump by taking off the bottom panel.
Fan motor is out or possibly the capacitor to the fan is bad. Would have capacitor replaced first then replace the motor if the capacitor didn't solve you problems.
ok...where to start.lol ....the thermostat is just a switch.It will tell the unit to run or not run.if you measure the temp with the heatpump running,the air is warmer than 68 but it feels cool to you because your body is 98.6.The unit will run more often and for longer periods when the temperature drops outside for a few reasons.First,your house has more of a load to heat,meaning you have more heat loss because of the difference in temperatures outside and inside.Second,your heat pump pulls heat from the outside air.The colder the air outside,the less btu's for it to pull.If you have anymore questions [email protected] Hope this helps,Dave
It could be your compressor trying to start but not being able to do so. It shouldnt happen that often but in cold temp the overload protector may cycle that quickly. I reccomemnd to have it checked to salvage the expensive compressor.
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