I need to know the diameter of the base, without the flange. (the hole size)
Of the switch of course.
To Confirm, there are only two of the three terminals connected, right?
There is a GE that exceeds the ratings and may work..General Electric GE WB24K2 may take some modifying of the hole or redrilling. Use the old switch to fill the old hole. (emamel will chip)
Only other concern is that it is a NO as opposed to a NC. In other words, push on or push off.
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SOURCE: Jennair 8895AAS
Flustered, first thing I would check is the power. If you are using a 4 wire 240V, part of the copper ground strap just below the terminal block should be removed. You would have black on the left, white in the middle, red to the right and ground to the ground screw just below. 120V from left to center, 120V from right to center and 240V across the outside terminals. If you have it wired right check for voltage at the spark module, should have 120V at terminals L&N. If you have that voltage there and still no spark with your burner caps on (this is the ground for the spark) you more than likley have a bad spark module. Call for factory service since this is new. Catriver..post back.
SOURCE: Oven door will not unlock.
You will not be able to open the door if you turn off temp gage. Return the temp gage only to clean and door should open.
SOURCE: Jenn Aire Model SVE47600W
Thank you so much for this information. I can verify that this procedure worked (at least for me). I ordered the part from Digi-Key Corp (it was up to a whooping $.28), replaced the old capacitor, plugged everything back in and bam! A working display. There was a beeping and error message but after hitting the Cancel button on the stove, everything was working.
Note that this fixed the dimmed display only. All the other controls were still working--only the display was off. If you have other issues, this might not be a complete solution.
You need basic soldering skills, a small solder iron, a solder ******, and some rosin-core solder. The capacitor is labeled on the circuit board.
When taking the unit off the control panel the largest ribbon cable was clear plastic with embedded contacts. I'd never seen one of these before. The cable's contacts slide in behind the pins on the connector and are held against it by an insert in the connector. When I removed the insert, the clear plastic cable came completely out from the connector. I had thought I'd broken it. But just slide it back in behind the pins, aligning the cable contacts with the pins and put in the connector insert to hold them in place.
The Digi-Key part number for the capacitor is P10292-ND. I ordered 5, just to have a few spares. The 5 caps plus first class postage came to a total of $3.51. Quite a difference from the $160 for the whole unit!
Thanks again to ultigerfan for making this information available.
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Looks like a 2 cm hole. The switch has 3 connectors at the back - aeach one has a wire attached
Are they white wires?
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