SOURCE: How to manually relight a
You should NEVER attempt to relight manually this furnace. Serious burns could be the result. This furnace has an electronic ignition and should light by itself. If it does not light you may have a bad ignitor. These are usually around 30-50 US dollars.
SOURCE: My furnace heats the house well, but during the
Depending on the age of the furnace you may be able to adjust the cool down. On some furnaces there is a silver box usually made by honeywell. This is your fan limit control. If you take the cover off you will see a dial with different temperature settings with 3 pins in a grove. The first one is fan on with temperature rise this turns the blower on when the furnace starts and warms up. The second is the fan off after furnace shuts down, this would be the one you want to adjust to a higher temperature to keep the blower from blowing cold air. The last pin is the high limit if the furnace gets to this temperature it will shut the furnace off but keep the blower running. Make sure that the thermostat fan option is set to auto and not on.
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The blower is working but it isn't igniting. Yesterday, I noticed the room seemed cold, so I checked the thermostat. Although the thermostat was set to 68, the room temperature was 65, and the thermostat indicated that the heat was on. It wasn't and it wasn't even blowing. I switched the thermostat on and off and the blower started blowing immediately. It stayed on for about 5 minutes, but never produced any heat. We have another zone with the same furnace, so I looked at it and noticed a blue flame through the little window. Despite the blower being on, I do not see the flame on the broken unit nor do the outlet vents feel warm. Today, I checked the circuit breakers which were in the on position. I switched circuit on and off to try and reset the furnace. The blower started immediately, but still no heat. It ran for about 5 minutes and turned off. I located the manual and checked the diagnostic LED. It was a steady red which indicates normal operation, so I thought it had something to do with the thermostat or wiring. This furnace supports two zones, so I tried the thermostat in the other zone. Same story, the blower blows, but no heat. I ruled out the thermostat being the problem and was going to call a repairman. I tried one last thing. I cranked the thermostat to 74 to see if that would do anything different. It did. Instead of the blower coming on immediately, it sounded like the unit was trying to ignite. It sounds like a fan comes on (not the blower fan) and I hear clicking. It stops after about 30-45 seconds. It tried this three times, then stopped. Now the LED is blinking one flash. The manual indicates this may be due to: 1) no gas (all the valves are open and nothing should have changed in the last couple days). 2) front cover pressure switch stuck open 3) bad igniter or igniter alignment 4) oxidized or coated flame sensor Now that I've written all this, I'm not sure what the question is. I should probably call a repairman, but I am very handy and curious whether I should at least take the cover off and give it a shot. Has anyone had a problem like this? If it was simple like reattaching wires or sanding the oxidation off, I can handle it, otherwise I'll call a repair service. Thanks.
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