How can I remove air intake grill so I can clean coil and fan?

With your unit switched off, vacuum them with a brush attachment. If still dirty, you can spray with a degreasant spray and then gently rinse with a towel under the coils. Dry with a hair dryer. That is how refrigeration techs do it.

check to see if the fan is working. low or no air flow will cause it to ice up. may have to remove the front to de-ice. turn the unit off and slowly pour warm water over the coils to thaw. the water should drain right into the bin. also good to clean any dust off of the coils to keep the air flow open.

The icing is generally caused but 4 basic things:

1. The air intake filter is very dirty or clogged and needs to be removed and cleaned.

2. There is not enough clear air space surrounding the unit. You need to maintain 12" to 18" around
the entire unit.

3. The cooling coils are dirty and need to be cleaned. This can be accomplished using a sponge
dipped in warm water mixed with a mild dish washing liquid, rinsed, wiped dry and the applying
a light coating of WD40.

4. The dehumidifier is being used in a basement, where the air temperature at floor level is colder
than at shoulder level. Dehumidifiers struggle to work at temps below 65 degrees F. Raising the
unit up off the floor, onto a sturdy table or counter top will generally solve the problem. It must be
sturdy enough to handle the weight of the unit, plus a full tank of water.

A less common problem is a small leak in the cooling coils. Which allows the refrigerant gas to escape and frost the coils.

Hope this helps you to further troubleshoot & solve the problem. Thanks for choosing FixYa.

IIt may very well be that the the air intake filter needs to be removed and cleaned. But, before doing this, turn the unit OFF & unplug it. Allow the unit to completely thaw, before removing the filter.Never operate the unit without the filter in place, As this could damage the unit.

Hope this helps you & thanks for choosing FixYa.

There are 5 basic, but solvable reason for what you described. Please pay particular attention to numbers 1 & 2.

1. The humidity extraction level is set to HIGH. Lower it to 32-35%.

2. Air intake filter is dirty or clogged. Turn unit OFF, & Unplug the
Unit, before removing to inspect & clean it, if necessary. If washed,
allow filter to completely dry before reinstalling. DO NOT operate
the unit without the filter.

3. Obstructed air flow. Maintain a minimum of 12 to 18" of clear air
space around the entire unit.

4. Cooling coils are dirty and need to be cleaned. Use warm water & dish washing liquid to
clean the coils. Rinse and wipe dry. Apply a light coating of WD40 to the coils.

5. Ambient air temperature at floor level is between 40 - 60 degrees.
dehumidifiers do not work well between those temperatures
(Unless, you have a Low Temp Unit). This applies mainly to
where the air temperature at floor level is colder than at shoulder level
in basement applications. Raising the unit up off the floor,
onto a sturdy table, counter top, etc, that can handle the weight
of the unit, plus a full tank of water, will usually resolve this
problem.

I hope this helps you to troubleshoot & solve the problem. Thanks for choosing FuxYa.

Hi,

The coils you see on the back of your dehumidifier are the evaporator. When the unit runs, the coils get very cold. As the fan draws the room air over the coils, the humidity in the air condenses out of the air onto the cold coils. But, if the temperature of the air the fan draws over the coils is too cool, the humidity that condenses out of the air freezes on the coils.

To remedy this problem, you can try any of these:
Warm up the room the dehumidifier is in.
Put the dehumidifier on a sturdy table (the room air is coolest near the ground).
Turn the unit off until the room warms up.

Take care.

Make sure the filter is clean and plenty of air comes through, when coils freeze it is usually caused by low air flow coupled with lots of humidity and low air temperature in the space to be cooled. Clean the filter, fan and gently brush all dust and debris from the intake of the cold coil and retry it. If the basement is already cool and you are trying to dehimidify you should use a dehumidifier that features defrost controls.

The de-humidifier is a niche product. Its only job is to remove moisture from air to alleviate the problems of mould and mildew. It is very similar in operation to a window air conditioner.

A dehumidifier though will add heat to the room, while an air conditioner will remove heat.

The de-humidifier is an appliance that requires regular maintenance. This may be because it’s icing up, overflowing, not removing enough moisture, or simply time for a good cleaning to maintain its efficiency. If you don’t feel handy enough to attempt this project contact your appliance repairperson.

The following is a step-by-step method used to return your de-humidifiers to its peak efficiency.

Tools required

1 Multi pocket container (old ice cube tray)

2 Long handled brush

3 Oil can

4 Rags

5 De-greaser or spray detergent

6 Selection of screwdrivers

7 New filter


1… Remove water collection bucket and put aside.

2… Remove the filter from rear of machine. Filer is usually within a frame and simply pops out. If no filter proceed to next step. If it is a disposable filter simply replace it with a new one. Other types are made in a plastic frame and can be cleaned and reused. To clean a filter lay it flat in the sink and sprinkle surface with powder laundry detergent. Plug sink drain and turn on hot water. Cover filter with enough water to submerge. Soak for 15 minutes. Remove from water and rinse. Hang up to dry while proceeding to next step.

3… Remove the rear grille from the main body of de-humidifier. If none proceed to next step. If there is resistance then look for hidden screws. If grille locks into cover proceed to next step. Once removed place the grille aside until later.

Tip: Dehumidifier may use different types and sizes of screws. Use ice cube tray to segregate.

4… Remove metal cover of de-humidifier to access inner workings. Cover screws may be difficult to see because are often painted to match body color. Usually two or three screws along each side of base. Once screws are removed lift the cover straight up. Use extreme caution at this point. Front grille may be secured to cover. Some fronts are put together like a puzzle. Parts often interconnect or are screwed to one another. If front grille lifts off with cover try to separate before proceeding. Front grille may lock into groove along front edge of cover. Avoid pulling off any wires from humidistat or indicator light.

5… When cover removed this will expose the heating and cooling coil. They may appear as one but are actually two separate coils in very close proximity. Both will need to be cleaned.

Use a narrow brush to remove surface dust and dirt from the front and rear surfaces of coils. Use an up and down motion to avoid bending fins. Area between two coils must also be cleaned. Use caution, the fins are soft aluminum and can be easily damaged. Once surface dirt is removed, spray with de-greaser or light cleaner. There is a good product on the market called HVAC cleaner. As the name implies it is meant for Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioner coil cleaning. If this is not available Fantastic Spray cleaner used in kitchens and bathrooms works quite well. Remove dirt and excess cleaner by slowly pouring warm water into fins. Do not allow the water to enter any electrical connections or components. As an added precaution cover the motor with one of the cloth rags to protect it from the water.

6… With cover, rear grille, and front grilles removed locate fan motor for oil holes. Add a few drops of oil to each end of the motor body. Use a general purpose (3in1) oil or clean motor oil. A #30 oil is sufficient. Three or four drops on both ends of the motor body are sufficient. Add the oil slowly, pausing a few seconds between each drop. If added too quickly over-lubrication will result.

7… Straighten any bent fins. Use a fin comb if available. If no fin comb then use something soft such as a Popsicle stick. Straightening the fins will increase the efficiency of the airflow through the coils. Use caution as these coils are filled with high-pressure refrigerant.

8… Wipe any dirt from fan blade using a soft rag. Do not bend blades. This would cause a vibration that would harm the motor.

9… Vacuum all surfaces including front and back of grille assembly. Vacuum underside of metal cover. Vacuum dirt buildup from base and any other exposed surfaces.

10… Drain any water left in the base and allow it to dry.

11… When completely dry plug in and test operation. On some models testing may require temporary override of bucket overflow switch. Test that cooling coil begins to sweat water within few minutes of operation. If everything appears okay unplug and reassemble. Insert water collection bucket slowly to avoid damaging float switch mechanism.

Hi,
If you haven't done so already, try removing and cleaning the inlet filter screen which is almost certainly just behing the inlet grille. It may slide upwards out of the casing or downwards unto the bucket area. If this is blocked with fluff then no moist air will get to the cold pipes, so little or no water will be extracted. There's also a chance that the humidity sensor is clogged with fluff, so fooling the system into thinking the room is pretty dry, in which case the compressor will probably not run.
A running compressor can usually be detected as a deep throbbing from the machine. If it is running, but not cooling the pipes behind the intake grille, then you may have lost the refrigerant from the system via a leak. If the air coming out of the machine is warm (caused by the compressor running) but there is no water produced this may be the cause.

Explore along these lines and let me know what you find.
Cheers, D