Kawasaki kx 80.. starts and revs up in neutral, once in gear the bike has no power, even if im not sat on it I hold clutch in rev up pop clutch out (on grass) it wheel spins abit then dies down and cuts out, we lifted the back wheel off floor reved it up in gear and it went nice, its NOT compression spark fuel problem carb clutch cable, what can it be and how to fix it ???
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Think you have simply frozen your piston from lack of proper fuel and 2 stroke oul mixture. Bike will move in neutral and with the clutch in, just won't kick or bumpstart ! Time for a top end rebuild my friend...good luck !
the problem is not your tuning, it is your clutch. Motorcycle clutches are maintained as light as possible to stop heavy pressure on your fingers. often when you increase hp, you must increase your spring pressure on your clutch plates so the first thing is to adjust your clutch, if it is too tight it will slip under load (more load = more slip). second,clutches do wear out so if adjusting does not work you will have to inspect your clutch plates for wear and may even have to increase your spring pressure, this is a big job and you will need special gear to do it
Front wheel drag (locked brake).Bad tire air pressure.If not,is carburetor cloged,need to drain (bolt under) or remove to clean.If the motor revs in the gear ,the clutch slip.Could be bad clutch cable tension or need replace clutch/cable.
HiClutch not disengaging Make sure cable has only a couple of mm play. If unable to adjust at handlebars then adjust at clutch endA quick & dramatic way to unseize clutches is to put front wheel up against a wall or similar, bike at 90 degrees to it, front brake on, with full riders weight on seat, in neutral hold clutch in & handlebars straight, rev her up to 3 - 4000rpm, brace your arms & dump her into 1st gearThe shock will generally free-up even a completely seized clutchThe other option is to strip & clean the clutch plates Ride Safe Bike-Doc
HiChange to bike oil Unlikely to have to change the clutch Clutch not disengaging Make sure cable has only a couple of mm play. If unable to adjust at handlebars then adjust at clutch end A quick & dramatic way to unseize clutches is to put front wheel up against a wall or similar, bike at 90 degrees to it, front brake on, with full riders weight on seat, in neutral hold clutch in & handlebars straight, rev her up to 3 - 4000rpm, brace your arms & dump her into 1st gear The shock will generally free-up even a completely seized clutch The other option is to strip & clean the clutch plates Ride Safe Bike-Doc
is it loosing water mate and the mix is 32-1 mate and get some good oil if it loosing water the head gasket has gone if it not this ckeck the jeting on the carb good look
The clutch in your bike is a wet clutch. There is a lot of hyrdostatic friction even when the clutch is released completely. I think a large factor is the type, age and condition of oil. Perhaps something as simple as an oil change would help.
Assuming the clutch handle on the handlebar is adjusted properly, only three things will cause the problem.
Very dirty oil in the gearbox. The grit is causing the clutch to drag. Change oil, ride for an hour in the city then change oil again to flush out the grit.
Worn clutch lever (at gearbox). Lever is not moving the pusher far enough to fully disengage the clutch. A new lever would be needed.
Synthetic lubricant ( or oils with "special" additives), was put in gearbox. 10w40 motor oil should be used in the gearbox. Synthetics can swell the cork on the friction plates causing the clutch to drag. New friction plates will fix the problem.
The current amount of clutch drag is not enough to harness the power of an engine rev. That is why the clutch seems okay at higher revs. Please rate my answer. Thanks.
u sound smart n thanks for goin oldschool-1st buy a manual-thats how the pros work--in bike yrs its in its 50's-parts wear out-try ajustin cable n then do clutch itself-that does not help-rebuild is probable
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