Unit shuts off before it reaches desired temperature. Do i have the thermostat sensor located in the wrong spot? It is mounted on the coils.

There are a few different reasons for short cycling of a furnace.
1. Inadequate air flow. Not enough air moving through the furnace can cause it to overheat and trip the high temperature limit switch.
check to see that all registers are open and returns are not blocked.
2 Improper heat anticipator setting on thermostat. Some thermostats have a heat anticipator and too low of a setting can cause short cycling.

4 Partially blocked drain hoses. If the condensate backs up into the furnace it can shut the flame off and then when the condensate drains the furnace starts again. Check all drain hoses to make sure they are clear.
These are just some of the possible reasons for short cycling .
Hope this helps.

I have a Model 2015WCS wine cooler. The thermostat control and sensor is part number 2767-1. You can find it from a number of suppliers. I called U-Line to get these instructions. They worked! I cannot stress how important it is to work carefully and slowly so you do not kink or crimp the new sensor or damage any of the refrigeration lines.
UNPLUG THE UNIT! Remove the knob and plastic front panel, and remove the back panel. Do this is a place with lots of room. Remove all of the shelves. Slightly loosen the two screws in the bottom center of the evaporator plate, inside and at the back of the storage unit. These screws secure the coiled sensing portion of the temperature sensor. Remove the screws and standoffs at the bottom of the Evaporator Plate and gently slide out the sensor. Working between the back of the unit and the back of the inside compartment, feed the coiled portion out through the hole.


Next come the HARD part. The control is mounted with two screws onto a housing within the unit. However, its removal is blocked by the mounting bracket for the button switch for the light. This button switch bracket is either riveted or spot welded onto the base of the unit. The U-Line guy told me to drill out the rivets to make room for removing the control. It's tough metal, but very possible! You will need some screws or a good pop rivet tool to re-mount the bracket when you are done. I ended up making fairly large holes and used 1/4 x 20 flat head screws.
Lay the unit on its side so you can work on the bottom side. You may wish to remove the door before doing this, or be sure the hinge in on the floor so the door will lay open. Locate where the rivets or spot welds are on the bottom outside, and drill them out to release the bracket. Take care not to drill the button switch.
After the bracket is out of the way, remove the two screws holding the Control, and feed the sensor through the back of the unit while pulling on the control. Note the path it takes for reinstalling the new one.
Now you are ready for the new part. CAREFULLY extend the sensor to its full length by gently uncoiling it. Feed it through the ho;le on the side of the housing that holds the control and then to the back of the unit. DO NOT MOUNT THE CONTROL YET. Feed the coiled end through the hole in the back of the unit. Reach inside and direct the sensor coil back into its bracket and tighten the screws. Replace the Evaporator Plate mounting screws and standoffs.
Now you are ready to mount the control in place. Using at least two screws and lock washers, secure the button switch bracket back in its original position.
Stand the unit back up and replace the back. Plug it in to verify that it is working. Replace the plastic front panel, knob, and shelves. Enjoy some wine!

You can order the part from apdepot.com. Changing it out it very simple. just pull the machine out where you can get to the front and the back easily. Once you have that done open the machine and take the two screws that are in the back wall at the bottom low center area. This will release the thermostat line inside the machine. Now just lay down in front and take the thermostat out and pull your line to you and your done.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

Sounds like the contactor in the condensing unit is stuck. That is why it will not turn off when the thermostat is satisfied. If the inside air handler is not blowing and the outside condensing unit is running, then this will cause the inside coils to freeze up rather quickly.
The contactor is located in the outside condensing uni in the electrical compartment.
If it is sticking it will need to be replaced.

FOLLOW THE TOP RADIATOR HOSE TO HOUSING.. IT HAS TO BE THERE..
PRIOR TO ENTERING ENGINE ,WATER FROM YOUR RADIATOR IS STOPPED HERE AT THERMOSTAT VALVE , UNTIL DESIRED TEMPERATURE IS REACHED..THEN THERMOSTAT OPENS TO ALLOW WATER INTO ENGINE WATER JACKETS PUMPED WITH ASSIST OF WATER PUMP

NOTE DIRECTION OF THERMOSTAT THERE IS A RIGHT AND WRONG DIRECTION

it sounds like you have a bad temperature controller thermostat or your temperature sensor inside the oven, (a metal rod attached to a thin metal wire) is not in its proper place. It clips into connectors located at the back center of the oven itself.

Thermostats don't cool or heat. They are just the control device that tells the furnance or AC to operate and register the present temperature and tell the furnance or A/C to shut off, once the desired temperature has been reached.

Most programmable thermostats will take at least 1-2 weeks to "learn" how long to run the furnance or A/C in order to reach the desired temperatures you've programmed into it, for the time you want it be that temperature. Variables such as extremely hot days and higher humidity will also affect your cooling system.

Give it a little time to self-learn and it should adjust itself after a week or two of operation. You might want to take some time to review and familiarize yourself with the owners manual to see what Hunter advises for setting up and using the thermostat.

You may need to have your A/C checked to see if you're running low on freon, or need to have the coils cleaned, need to change the air filter, etc.

Hope this helps and best regards!

OK as long as you used a hair drier, and not a screw driver to defrost this machine, you should be fine, it shoudl take no more then 24-36 hours to regain the correct temp, this being said, not real comfortable with the over the internet diag of a unit that potentially "keeps people alive"

Behind the unit near the floor level, is a yellow wire with a black bulb at the end. This is the actual sensor for returning air. If there is cool air infiltrating the area where it is located, it will keep the unit running until the return air reaches temperature. You could also have a bad sensor but highly unlikely. Make sure there is no air infiltration influencing the sensor. Also, you can unclip the sensor and pull out a few more inches of wire to locate it higher up away from the floor. Tie it up with a wire tie.

Rinnai it testing a remote thermostat but as of yet, there is no plans to offer one.