Whirlpool RBS275PD Electric Single Oven Logo
Posted on Sep 20, 2007
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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Oven won't heat

My oven is actually a RBS305PDB6 It was working fine, until I used the self clean mode for the first time. It heated and cooled nicely, but now the oven won't heat the broiler won't work either, and it won't self clean again. The fan is running when I turn it on. I tried resetting the circuit breaker and still no luck.

  • 5 more comments 
  • Anonymous Feb 09, 2008

    My RBS305 did exactly the same thing; we used self clean for the first time in 9 years then no heating at all. What the heck?

  • jwxray Apr 21, 2008

    I am a slow learner. Self clean blows thermal fuse. 2 years later self clean blow thermal fuse. 9 months after that self clean you guess correctly... thanks for the post I will either move fuse or NOT use self clean.

    ps could not find web site for climaC or part 9759243. the other two sights (repairclinic.com part 589842 $ 39.20 + shipping $6.45) (pcappliancerepair.com 4451442 $39.18 + shipping $7.48 also offer lifetime for 9.79 but you must send them part and shipping paid by you both ways to get replacement part back to you)

  • Anonymous Jul 27, 2008

    same problem here, used self cleaning a few time before then this last time no heating after. then looked at thermal switch and sure enough it was shorted. will replace Monday if I can find replacement.

  • klbeddoe Aug 06, 2008

    Our Whirlpool oven just did the same thing after going through the cleaning cycle.



    Sounds like it too is the thermal switch as everything powers up except for the heating elements.



    Where is the thermal switch located? I have a built in oven model # RBS305PD06.



    Thanks



  • hhstockton Aug 17, 2008

    same thing RBS305PRQ00 wall oven. 14 months old. Self cleaned today for the first time and now, no heat at all. Where is this thermal fuse, how do you get to it and is it easy to replace

  • sjejbelch Apr 01, 2009

    I have the same problem... I replaced the part..with no trouble



    but the Oven still will not heat and all I hear is a fan noise that will not turn off ?

    Whats next ?

  • jr_walker Apr 23, 2009

    After self cleaning, oven won't work. Everything else on oven works execpt the heating elements, upper or lower.

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Anonymous

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  • Posted on Sep 26, 2007
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I have EXACTLY the same problem, occured today 9/25/07. Model RBS305PDQ16. At least I know I am not crazy... You know when Ronald Regan was President the CIA analysts assured him that the Soviet Bloc was ready to crumble because the people were constatly complaining that "nothing seened to work anymore." ...must have included ovens...

  • Anonymous Sep 26, 2007

    In my case, it appears that the Thermal Fuse tripped during the self-clean cycle. (Great way for Whirlpool to generate service call revenue...)

    Anyway, my thermal fuse part number is 9759243 made by ClimaC it is a 102C (248F) fuse. Doesn't visually match the Whirlpool 4451442, but the thermal rating is exactly the same.

    In the Service Tech papers in the oven there are listed seven different part numbers for the thermal fuse. I think I will order a "hotter" one to avoid this problem in the future.

    WARNING: Using a "hotter" thermal switch may cause a fire or harm other parts of the oven.

    I will post if this fix works ...or nor...

  • Anonymous Sep 28, 2007

    PROBLEM FIXED!!!

    Thanks should go to Catriver in this post
    http://www.fixya.com/support/t121118-ove...

    Good luck!

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  • Posted on Nov 03, 2009
Chris Goulet
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There is a design problem with certain model Whirlpool ranges where the thermal fuse blows during self-cleaning (auto-clean). This may be because of inadequate insulation, causing the outer panel to overheat. When the thermal fuse is replaced, the range will work, but it will blow the next time auto-clean is done. To safely work around the problem, the thermal fuse may be replaced with a thermostat, which will reset itself once the oven has partially cooled off. If the part number of the thermal fuse is 9759243, it will blow at 120 deg C (248 deg F). This can be replaced to a Selco Part# SES-L250 thermostat. The terminals are perpendicular (90 degress), so they have to be bent to 30 degrees for the wires to fit behind the back panel. 

Selco part# SES-L250 specs:

Surface Mount
3/4 in. disc
120/240 VAC
25 A
SPDT
open on-rise (normally closed)
open (cut-out): 250 deg F
close (cut-in): 220 deg F
temperature differential: 40 deg F

Info: http://catalog.selcoproducts.com/item/3-4-disc-thermostats/surface-mount-automatic-reset-open-on-rise/pn-5113?&seo=110
Available: Selco distributors: http://www.selcoproducts.com/distributors.php

and online at

Allied Electronics http://www.alliedelec.com


If the Selco SES-L250 'surface mount' thermostat is not available, an 'airstream type' thermostat can be used with a few differences:

1) I recommend to replace it to a 240 or 230 deg F thermostat. The reason for the lower cut-out temperature is that an 'airstream mount' thermostat will not be flush with the back panel, as is the original 250 deg F 'surface mount' one, so it may cut-out at a higher (unsafe) temperature.

2) I recommend to add Heat-sink compound between the thermostat and the sheet metal. This is used for computer processors and is available at computer and electronic component stores.

3) An 'airstream type' thermostat is thicker than the original 'surface mount' one, so longer screws will have to be obtained. The sheet metal tabs on the thermostat will bend slightly when installing.

4) The terminals are perpendicular (90 degress), so they have to be bent to 30 degrees for the wires to fit behind the back panel.

Recommended 'airstream type' thermostats:

Supco L240
Info: http://www.supco.com/images/pdfs/2009%20HVAC%20Caralog/2009%20Catalog%20for%20Web2.pdf
Available: http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/applianceshvac/supco/crossref/thermostats2.html

Selco SE-L240
Info: http://catalog.selcoproducts.com/item/3-4-disc-thermostats/ts-3-4-disc-se-series-airstream-mount-open-on-rise/pn-5096?&seo=110

White-Rodgers 3L01-230
Info: http://www.white-rodgers.com/wrdhom/pdfs/06_Cat_pages/Cat_06_pg0092.pdf

General Electric LS2-240



  • 1 more comment 
  • Chris Goulet Nov 08, 2009

    White-Rodgers 3L01-230
    Available: eBay store: Store: Patriot-Supply

  • bjohnson Mar 06, 2013

    I thought your suggestion of replacing the fuse with the Selco SES-L250 was a great idea so ordered it from Allied Electronics as suggested. What a mistake! They don't tell you the shipping charges even after you confirm the order. 10 minute after placing the order I saw a credit card charge from them for $39. The shipping must have been over $20. I called and canceled the order not because it was that much to pay for the part but because of their deceptive practices. I should have looked for reviews on Allied Electronics. I see there are many other people complaining of the same thing.

  • bjohnson Mar 09, 2013

    Update: Paul at Allied Electronics emailed me about this issue and said the Freight Estimator page is very accurate and confirmed the USPS shipping should be around $8. He also said they understand why we were suspicious about shipping charges when seeing a high charge on their credit card but that this was a credit check to cover the max purchase price. He said they hope to have an estimated shipping cost show up on the confirmation page of their web site sometime this year to correct this issue.

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Anonymous

RBS305PDB6
SELF CLEAN CAUSED PROBLEMS
REPAIR MAN REPLACED GASKET AND
TOLD ME IT WAS A PART RECALL ISSUE
AND THE JOB WAS FREE OF CHARGE TO ME!

IT WAS A WHILE BACK
TODAY THE DOOR GLASS BROKE....

THERE ARE HONEST REPAIRMEN IN PA!

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