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Can't get the chain oiler to work. Using standard bar oil.
Puchased new chain saw 3 or so years ago. first time used and can't get the chain oiler to work. McCulloch chain saw model CS 38 EM. part of family 2MHXS0384AA. HELP PLEASE!
Assuming oil tube isn't clogged, and since it is a McCullough, my local saw dealer says parts are unavailable. Probably oiler itself. Is there no solution? Assuming oil tube isn't clogged, and since it is a McCullough, my local saw dealer says parts are unavailable. Probably oiler itself. Is there no solution?
To isolate the problem I would take the bar off first and run the saw to see if it tries to pump oil, if so you might have an obstruction in the holes and groove in the bar. If not I would wipe the area clean and see if you can see a blockage in the hole from the saw, also check to make sure that the tube in the saw has not come undone.To isolate the problem I would take the bar off first and run the saw to see if it tries to pump oil, if so you might have an obstruction in the holes and groove in the bar. If not I would wipe the area clean and see if you can see a blockage in the hole from the saw, also check to make sure that the tube in the saw has not come undone.
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Re: Can't get the chain oiler to work. Using standard bar...
You can always put some penentrating oil in the saw oil tube by the bar, spray it in with the plastic straw attatched. Sometimes this will clean things out. As far as the tube being un attatched,,,, taking case apart is usually the remedy - kinda takes a while... :) Hope this helps you, Rick.
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There are two holes in the end of the Bar, the oil comes though them from behind the bar and goes into the channel (oil passages) that goes around the bar, clean the small oil passages in the drive end of the bar that run
out to the chain groove on each edge from the large holes.
My chain saw is doing the same thing. I have only used it about 5 hours since owning it, and it worked great last time I used it (year ago). I think maybe my pump is not working. Did you ever get your's working ? I was told to take the bar off and Start the engine and observe whether oil oozes out of the side port. If no oil
comes out, then the oil pump, oil line, or oil tank filter may require
service.
Some saw manufactures design their oilers to only work with their bars. Are you running the mfg suggested or stock bar? Chain? Stihl Chain is designed to use 30% less oil because of oil groves cut into each drive link directed to the rivets. So if your running an aftermarket bar/chain, the oiling ports may not line up. Especially if it oils with no bar & chain
Hello. Thin your bar oil just a wee bit with some kerosene. If you have a gallon of bar oil add 1/4 cup of kerosene, stir it up and you will be fine. For starters also, directly apply some bar oil to the chain so that you are always using a well lubed chain. Joe
Did you get it Lowes? Most new homeowner class chainsaws have no oiler adjustment (bad idea! lots of problems). If it does there is a mention in the OM under or near bar maintenance.
Intermediate class saws often have a 3 position oiler. The professional grades have fully adjustable oilers. HusqvarnaUSA.com http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/ Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers) Serial number decode – useful when downloading IPLs and Manuals 06 1500198 06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000; please contact Husqvarna for single digit clarificationhttp://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/customer-support/) 15 = week produced – March 00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week
Oil System Plugged:
Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up (oozes down side of saw). If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
Work your way through the linkage (use IPL to identify components and locations) cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear (see IPL).
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck. Lou Thank You for using FixYa.
I think you have more than one problem.
1. I think the pitch of the bar and the chain you are using are different.
2. I think either you failed to bar add oil to the bar oil reservoir or your oiler is not working. Why you are burning up bars.
3. I think your Poulan saw says Craftsman (model will not cross).
Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar), if equipped with a sprocket nose ensure it rotates easily at least one complete revolution. Clean the saw oiler hole and channel. Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out. Pay attention to the screen or filter on the free end (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up (oozes down side of saw). If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
Work your way through the linkage (use IPL to identify components and locations) cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is a left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly.
If it does not oil on completion of 1 it is most likely a bad oiler or worm gear (see IPL).
Test as I suggest then post back (below) with what you find and we will continue. I will need clarification on the make and model of this saw to be much more help. If all else fails for the model provide the engine size in CCs. We are prohibited from contacting you directly. Sorry. HTH Lou
Is your chain oiler working? If you're using saw a lot and the oiler isn't working properly the chain will get hot and bind up especially if the chain is too tight. Tighten the chain so that you can squeeze it in the center of the bar, with your second and third finger on the sides of your fingers (not a very strong grip) and you should be able to almost pull the chain out of the bar guide but not quite. Clean the oiler hole in your bar where the chain oiler injects oil into the bar. You can also run your saw without a bar and chain and see if the oiler is pushing oil out of the injector.
This usually means the oiler hole behind the bar & chain is plugged. you need to remove the bar & chain, clean the body of the chain saw in front of the sprocket/clutch assembly. look for a small hole & clean out using something like a toothpick & wd40 or penetrating oil.
Is this a new saw? If yes please contact Husqvarna about a warranty (2 years) repair. I think you already performed part 1 below.
I've 7 chainsaws. 6 of them oil my bench if I forget to drain the oil tank.
You don't give us a model number not all saws have oiler adjustments. An IPL of your saw with oiler detail can be found here: HusqvarnaUSA.com http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/download-manuals/ Enter the 3 digit model number (no XPs, Es, just the numbers) Serial number decode – for use with IPL 06 1500198 06 = year produced – 2006 (single digit before 2000) 15 = week produced - March 00198 = 198th unit Husky produced that week
Oil System Plugged.
Remove the clutch cover, bar, and chain, clean the bar groove, any holes and passages on the rear of the bar (both sides, consider rotating the bar) Clean the saw’s oiler hole and channel. Start the saw and see if it oils when revved up. If yes reassemble your saw. If no, continue with 2.
Insert a blunted, hooked piece of wire through the oil filler hole and pull the hose in the oil tank out (clean or replace, difficult to determine serviceability). Work your way through the linkage cleaning and replacing any defective parts as you go. Carefully check the hoses for cracks especially at bends and connections. If equipped with an oil pump it is usually behind the clutch (clutch is probably left handed thread). Please make extensive notes & some digital pictures will help during reassembly. GL
These oilers are called diaphragm oilers and work fairly well when the saw is new with great compression. As the saw wears out, the compression drops and a side effect is less oil pumped. The diaphragm is replaceable and it's not horribly expensive. Most good saws use a gear oiler - and even the newer Poulans use gear oilers. The gear oilers tend to have less problems and don't rely on engine compression.
Depends on the vintage, turn the saw upside down and you can see a screw to turn, 3 settings, right under the clutch and shaft. use a screw driver if it is adjustable. I like to keep mine set on high, oil is cheaper that new chains and bars. Use a bar oil, not old used motor oil.
"tube in saw" How to check that, take it all apart?
Assuming oil tube isn't clogged, and since it is a McCullough, my local saw dealer says parts are unavailable. Probably oiler itself. Is there no solution?
To isolate the problem I would take the bar off first and run the saw to see if it tries to pump oil, if so you might have an obstruction in the holes and groove in the bar. If not I would wipe the area clean and see if you can see a blockage in the hole from the saw, also check to make sure that the tube in the saw has not come undone.
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