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Let me re-state my question : the Compression Reading I get is between 95 and 100 psi.....The Saw is harder than hell to get started !!!! Is the Compression reading too low---Is that why it is hard to start ????Let me re-state my question : the Compression Reading I get is between 95 and 100 psi.....The Saw is harder than hell to get started !!!! Is the Compression reading too low---Is that why it is hard to start ????
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Sounds like it could be seized. Have you been running it on the correct fuel and oil mix? Clutches are centrifugal, so only work when the saw is running, so it wouldn't effect the starting. You would have to have the chain brake on and for the clutch springs to have gone in order for that to effect the saw starting.
The compression has to be at minimum 100 PSI for a 2 stroke. Some will run under 100 PSI. Turn the screws all the way in very gently and back them both out 1 full turn. This will at least get you started.
Does the saw run freely when not cutting?
Dont press too hard, let the saw do the work.
Is the cut compressing?
Pull the saw out and under cut.
Drive a plastic wedge in to the log
Try putting a spark tester on the plug. Run the saw and when it dies see if you can generate spark by pulling the cord, if not your coil needs to be replaced. It would also be a good idea to check the compression. When the saw warms up you could be loosing compression which would cause it to run poorly or not at all. A good compression reading will be 100-150 lbs.
Read your manual very carefully. I think it is flooded. Read line 3 (cold and warm). read them again. Read 5 in your manual. Most overlook the attempt to start , continue with the choke closed and the saw floods. You have an additional visual indicator, watch the decompression valve, when cold; once it pops turn off the choke. The warm procedure is very close to mine. Start Procedure Cold:
Ignition on/off to on.
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release.
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws); pull starter and listen for an attempt to start. once heard (usually two pulls; no more than 4).
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release.
Push (open) choke pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull).
Warm:
Ignition on/off to on.
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release.
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws) – Do not pull with choke closed.
Push (open) choke, pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull).
If it still will not start return it for a replacement or your money back. Anything you do may render any warranty invalid.
Did you purchase this in a big box store? What is your elevation? All new saws regardless of maker are set to run extremely lean to meet EPA mandated air quality standards. They are also fitted with a device to restrict richening the carburetor beyond initial factory settings this too required by the EPA. Most big box stores put them on the shelf and sell them to the consumer with no thought of how elevation may impact saw performance or longevity. Homeowners usually are not concerned about changes in the saws performance until it quits operating. This combination results in many destroyed saws and homeowner saws of most brands being called trash! Find a local chainsaw seller/mechanic. If they pull a saw off the shelf and hand it to you without making some adjustment or minimally ensuring it will run hand it back and leave. You can get this service at a big box store cheaper. Find a different seller/mechanic and try again. A good dealer will help you arrive at a saw that will meet your needs. He will ensure it runs properly and you have an understanding of how to properly operate it. Should a problem arise you have somewhere to go and if you were courteous with your dealer someone in your corner helping you rectify your problem.
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH Lou
The manual may not be clear, read warm line 3 below, read it again. The 450 manual I read says something similar under warm start. Are you opening the choke after turning on the ignition? Before pulling the starter rope? Flooding is the most common hard start problem with 2-cycle engines. If you are opening the choke I recommend you contact Husqvarna for guidance. They will likely send you to a neighborhood dealer, gratis. HusqvarnaUSA.com/ContactUs http://www.husqvarna.com/us/homeowner/support/customer-support/ Start Procedure Cold:
Ignition on/off to on.
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release.
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws); pull starter and listen for an attempt to start. once heard (usually two pulls; no more than 4).
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release.
Push (open) choke pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull).
Warm:
Ignition on/off to on.
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release.
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws) – Do not pull with choke closed.
Push (open) choke, pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull).
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. Thank you for using FixYa and Good Luck. HTH Lou
Start at 1.5 CCW form lightly seated then tune for performance like this: Carburetor Adjustment by Madsens.com http://www.madsens1.com/saw%20carb%20tune.htm CW is leaner; to lean will destroy the saw. If over tightened closed (CW) the adjustment screw faces are easily marred; marred adjustments are difficult to impossible to set properly. Clean the air filter; adjusting with a dirty filter can cause a run lean condition once cleaned and the saw run. There are 2 wav (sound - idle & full – may not be highlighted) files that I find most helpful, I think you will too.
I think your starting procedure may be the cause of flooding. Flooded is the #1 cause of hard starts in 2-cycle engines. Read carefully the recommended start in your manual. most miss the second note. It should be similar to this (read 3, read it again):
Warm start in the manual says 1/2 choke BS. Close choke, (sets fast idle) open choke, pull rope. Start Procedure Cold:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws); pull starter and listen for an attempt to start. once heard (usually two pulls; no more than 4).
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release.
Push (open) choke pull starter until it starts (usually first pull).
Warm:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws) – Do not pull with choke closed.
Push (open) choke, pull starter until it starts (usually first pull).
If you still have trouble reply as you did before. I will get back to you. HTH Lou
It must have spark, fuel and compression to run. Your task is to figure out which is missing.
Sometimes electrical components quit operating once beyond a certain temperature. Does it always start cold and become tempermental when warm?
IMO most hard start problems on a chainsaw with a good fuel delivery system are flooded. Start Procedure Cold:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws); pull starter and listen for an attempt to start. once heard (usually two pulls; no more than 4)
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Push (open) choke pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
Warm:
Ignition on/off to on
Set compression release – optional step even if saw is equipped with a compression release
Pull (close) choke, set fast idle (done when choke closed on some saws) - Don’t pull with choke closed.
Push (open) choke, pull starter until it starts. (usually first pull)
The 3516 is a MTD McCulloch (Chinese). These saws are in a class by themselves. Good Luck Lou
Let me re-state my question : the Compression Reading I get is between 95 and 100 psi.....The Saw is harder than hell to get started !!!! Is the Compression reading too low---Is that why it is hard to start ????
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