Maytag CWE5800ACB 24 in. Electric Double Wall Oven. Top oven has a (ERC) electric control panel and the bottom has a knob controls. The problem is in the top oven. It stopped heating both in bake and broil. The bottom oven works fine. Was using the top oven on bake and it stopped heating. Bake, broil and self cleaning is not doing anything as far as heating. Checked the ohms on both elements and they are 18 and 24 ohms. Getting 120 volts to both side of the elements when I ran a test. ERC controls seem to be working properly as far as the different controls, but I keep hearing a light clicking in the controls. I still get 120 volts on both sides of the elements all the time. I do have the digram and have followed out the lines and all seems ok.
I gather you are measuring voltage with respect to the chassis ground?
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/07-wiring-information-parts-for-maytag-cwe5800acb.html
Shows the internal wiring for the unit. The parts are rather expensive and some are no longer available.
SOURCE: Electric Oven not getting hot enough
Sir, I think the top oelement is for broiling ONLY. It should not turn on when baking. The clicking may be the oven heating up.
How far apart were the oven temp instrument and the digital?
Don't expect them to match...they are inaccurate.
1. Heat water until it boils. Place digital therm in boiling water until it comes up to 212deg. If it is not at 212 in boiling water, record the error.(this gives a rough calibration to the digital)
2 Turn on oven, set to 350 deg, place digital therm on rack. Wait until oven reaches 350 (on stove) and read the digital. Note the difference between the two
SOURCE: Whirlpool oven that does not broil
Nabril, looks like you have a thermal fuse in the broil circuit. Take your meter and on the control board go to connector P2-2, should be a blue wire. Pull the connector off and see if you have continuity from the blue wire to the red wire on the terminal block (where the cord connects) power off, wires off. If you don't have continuity, it's probably that fuse. If you do, the only other thing I would think it could be would be the relay itself. The schematic does not show the placement of this fuse. It could be on the back panel or under the main top. Check out the pic. Part number..3196548 Catriver..post back.
SOURCE: Oven will not bake or broil
bann...why did you replace the element? It is possible that the relay or the control circuit were the problems and still are. The hi limit switch is a temperature 'box' which is designed to open the circuit in case of overheating. Rarely a problem. First, these units are 3 wire units. That means 220 volts ... two breakers. They may be part of a linked unit or separate. Turn them BOTH off and then on. Do all of your burners heat properly on high? If you have a voltage tester, you can test to see if the voltage is there. Unplug the unit. The vertical slot is neutral. Each of the other slots with the neutral should light the tester. If not, your problem is outside the stove.
SOURCE: Amana Range, Electric wont bake or broil
the fact that the time keeps flashing is odd, an you set the clock?? and if so does it return to blinking again???sme stoves wont allow proper operation of oven without the clock being set.
SOURCE: JBP26 Oven broil and bake do not work and the oven light is flash
If you have 240Volts to the range and BOTH elements don't work, it sounds like the L2 OUT relay on the oven control is bad. Bake and Broil share this line and this problem is not un-common. Make sure you have proper incoming voltage first. Turn breaker off and back on to make sure both poles are set.
Hello kimberlymaso - If you are referring to the bake element, but the broil element works then you would need to just replace the bake element. If both your bake and broil element does not work, then there might be a problem with the wiring communication. However, if the oven does not bake and/or broil but the cook top works; contact a professional to diagnose the EOC (electronic oven control).
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